ROVER OVERHEATING
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I HAVE THE SOLUTION TO THIS PROBLEM, AT THE BACK OF THE ENGINE ON THE INLET MANIFOLD IS A SMALL PIPE WHICH GOES BACK TO THE EXPANSION TANK. AT THE INLET MANIFOLD WHERE THIS PIPE CONNECTS THERE IS A SMALL METAL BALL BEARING WHICH YOU HAVE TO TAKE THE INLET MANIFOLD OFF TO GET AT. THIS BALL BEARING USUALLY GETS STUCK OVER THE HOLE OF THE OUTLET AND STOPS THE FLOW OF COOLANT BACK TO THE EXPANSION TANK THUS CREATING AN AIR LOCK AND CAUSING THE ENGINE TO OVERHEAT. IF YOU REMOVE THE INLET MANIFOLD YOU WILL SEE THE OFFENDING BALL BEARING, I HAVE TAKEN THE BALL BEARING OUT BY USING A PAIR OF LONG PIN NOSE PLIERS TO BEND THE METAL OF THE BALL BEARINGS HOUSING BACK JUST ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE BALL BEARING. I HAVE JUST DONE THIS IN THE FIRST WEEK OF JANUARY 2005 AND HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM SINCE, SO I CANNOT SEE ANY PURPOSE TO HAVING THIS BALL BEARING THERE OTHER THAN TO CAUSE PROBLEMS. I HAVE DRIVEN OVER 100 MILES SO FAR WITH NO PROBLEMS AND THE HEATER IN MY CAR WORKING NORMAL AND BLOWING HOT AIR WITHIN A FEW MINUTES OF STARTING. I SUSPECT MOST OF THE ENGINE PROBLEMS WHICH RESULT IN THE HEAD GASKETS BLOWING ARE A RESULT OF THIS BALL BEARING BLOCKING THE FLOW OF COOLANT AND MAKING THE ENGINE OVERHEAT AND THE HEAD GASKET BLOWS BECAUSE OF THE RESULTING INCREASE IN PRESSURE WITHIN THE CYLINDER HEAD.
My Rover 100 exhibits all the poverheating problems described in your message (also a K series engine). Yours is the first hopeful glimmer I've seen in a while. I've been through the new gasket, new head (!), flush the system, etc, etc, but it keeps coming back. I wonder if the 100 has the same problem - the return pipe to the reservoir never gets hot! Is your 214 still running fine? Nobody else seems to have chipped in on this one. Any other views? I was tempted to remove the thermostat - many years ago with my old mini, I had overheating problems so I removed the thermostat, meaning to get another - I never did, because the car never overheated again! So who cares if it takes marginally longer for the engine to warm up?
Hi PKOK, My 214 is still running fine after 200 miles of driving in various forms of traffic and even after the recent hard frost in the morning. The easy way to check if it is the same problem is to take the pipe off at the outlet at the back of the cylinder head and sqeeze the top radiator hose and you should get a flow of water coming from the outlet, if not then get a long thin needle and insert it into the outlet where you removed the pipe and you will probably feel the restriction where the ball bearing is, keep inserting the needle to move the ball bearing around and try to free it up a little. Sometimes this will be enough and you can reconnect the pipe and start the car and once the the air lock from removing the pipe is gone the engine will be fine but on mine the problem kept returning every few weeks so in the end I decided to remove the ball bearing altogether, apparantly you only need a little bit of goo on the ball bearing and then it keeps sticking over the hole that the water should flow through. It is probably simpler to remove the ball bearing to be honest because using a needle to free it up would only be a temporary solution at best. But if you have had a new cylinder head fitted then you would'nt imagine this being the problem but you never can tell with these engines. Another problem could be the heater matrix inside the car, water flows through this to provide the hot air and sometimes on higher mileage or older cars this can get clogged but that just requires removing the pipes and flushing through to make sure there is a good flow.
I had this exact problem just before christmas, took it to a garage and they couldnt find a thing wrong as it had stopped. But now its started again and with your exact symptoms, Ill have a look tonight! Cheers Al
Your email may have saved my vehicle! i brought a Rover 216 coupe on 7th December. drove fine, but noticed no heat from heater in car. Drove it for 12 days and then my neighbour said, pull over, there's steam coming out the bonnet on passenger side. pulled over, coolant bottle bubbling, little to no water in it, steam bellowing out top. anyway managed to fill it up, took it back to garage asked them to sort out thermostat as this is what they said it was. pipes were full of mayonnaise like substance, yellow, thick gooey although engine oil perfect but car had just had an oil change on purchase! anyway to not bore you too much the temperature gauge goes to half after 5 mins of driving, heater hot, lovely and hot but my concern is the coolant bottle now full of red oily brown stuff. took it to garage to ask their opinion and they reckon head gasket about to go, so do rover garage. the garage i had it from said that i am convincing myself the head gasket has gone! can you advise me, apart from this the car is lovely, its running ok at mo but off to garage i had it from on friday this week to see what he can offer me. what is the goo in the pipes, yellow stuff, and what is the red stuff in the coolant! radiator fillaments all rusty and brittle with complete rows of radiator filament missing! any advice greatly appreciated thank tammy
Are there any signs of oil or water leaking from around the head of the engine which would also suggest the gasket, usually when you get oil and water mixing you will get the creamy goo that you mention, as for the red stuff in the coolant it could be some kind of additive that the garage you got it from has used to either rectify or cover up the problems.It sounds like the cooling system on the car has not been very well maintained if the radiator is as bad as you say.Could probably do with the entire cooling system being flushed through to make sure all the crap in it is washed out and the radiator being renewed before I'd go to the expense of a head gasket. Although with the engine getting so hot and steam bellowing out like you mention it is entirely possible that the gasket has been damaged due to this, it depends how long you had been driving it with the water problems. Sorry I can't be any more helpful.
The problems are: It keeps on overheating, drinks water like no mans business. Then it just broke down. Now it starts after a lot of trying, and cuts off as soon as i break. Cold air comes out the heaters and water is not being circulated around. I have been told its the head gasket. I replaced the water pump but ni change.. But reading from other replies, is it worth flushing the water, or is it too late and get a new gasket? What kind of a price am i looking for parts and labour. Thanks in advance Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Is oil or water leaking from around the head and is there oil in the expansion tank causing a creamy substance. Expect to pay between £250 to £350 as a guide price depending upon the garage you use.
keep looking i was lucky nough to find an almost brand new rad at - guess what - same price £20.00
It's me PKOK (Kieran) - your first correspondent in this stream. I suggested to my pet car mechanic (no I don't do much of it myself anymore) that he remove the offending oneway valve as you suggested He was somewhat sceptical, but he did it anyway and - after several efforts to fix this problem including all the things mentioned inmy last email - he's come back to me to say he believes it has worked! Time will tell, but he was not seeing the pressure build up and air locks as before - he's convinced. (by the way, on the Rover 100, it's not a 'ballbearing', but some kind of pin valve - but the effect of removing it was the same. Thanks mate And all the rest of you who have written in, don't hesitate do it NOW - all the other problems are effects rather than causes - as confirmed by russ.
It's ok when driving around town but when I get on to the motor way reach a speed of 70mph the heating guage goes through the roof.I pinning my hopes on that it may be a thermostat problem.I could sort that if I knew where the housing was located.HELP!
when i start the car in the morning i can hear a rush of water thru pipes near drivers footwell. the engine idles eratically between 1500 =+ 2000 revs but will settle down after a while. however this will recur later intermitently. the other thing i notice that there seems to be a strong smell of burning in the cab and steam from the bonnet. i have filled the rad and topped up expansion to required level but this doesnt appear to solve the prob but there again the temp gauge reads ok somewhere in middle......grateful of any help .....del
thanks ...del
i'm having a similar problem with my rover 100 (p reg) i noticed after a short run that the fan behind the radiator was running full even after the engine was turned off, also there appeared to be no heat from the heater. has any one got any ideas as to what it might be? any help would be much appreciated.
wish you luck, i wish i had never brought mine!
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