ROVER OVERHEATING
Messages 21 to 40 of 946. < Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 ... 48 Next >
thanks for your comments. the stupid car is now performing normally - but i will keep your reply in mind. i suspect that the 'stat is sticking. by the way do you know where the thermostat is located? all the best
well would you believe it but- yes it's the damned head gasket! have been told that this is common on rover engines and there is no guarantee that fitting a new one will fix the problem. so it looks like a write off.
The heating has been gone for a month now - just never got around to having it looked at then one evening there appeared to be smoke (probably steam) coming from the engine on the passenger side and a loud bang. Will have to look for the oil on the engine sign tomorrow but it sounds bad. I will try the 'ball bearing' trick first. If my head gasket is gone can I do any more damage to the rest of the engine driving the car to the garage (couple of miles)? Thanks in advance and for raising the topic.
I do wish some of the late entrants in this thread would read and BELIEVE your diagnosis of the problem on K Series (as explained by Russ). When the engine is at its hottest, they should feel the rubber hose coming out of the engine back into the expansion tank. If it's cold - there's a bunged up valve and an airlock below it. Having taken your advice and removed the one way valve from the inlet manifold, I have been driving to work all week (30 miles per day and today took this Rover 100 for a 2 hour long Motorway drive and the old lady is behaving beautifully!! You should have seen the amount of sticky gunge which gradually made its way to the expansion tank, when the valve had been removed - no wonder the valve sticks! I've been removing it daily and now I see nice clean water/antifreeze in the expansion tank. I think, to get this problem, you probably have to have a head gasket go once, to get the oil in the water to begin with which creates the glue-like gunge. After that the only answer is to take the valve out and get rid of the gunge. (Previously I had the engine flushed 3 or 4 times, but it never got rid of it). The fan thermostat is a red herring - that fan should never even come on except in slow traffic on hot summer days! I've got another Rover 100 in the family which is good as gold and has never had a problem. - but next chance I get, that valve is coming out! Anyway Patrick - if they don't believe you that's their bad luck - thanks for restoring my Rover 100 to health! Kieran
How do you remove the valve? I have the inlet manifold off the block, there was a load of gunk around the valve and in the water passage of the engine. I have been sticking an allen key down the pipe, which pushes the valve shut - and up the pipe, which opens it (i can feel this happening) however, I am not sure which end i should be trying to get the valve out of. I have been trying to grab the end of the valve with some nose pliers but this doesnt seem to have the desired effect of pulling it out. Should i be trying to stick a nail or something up there to lever it out? Thanks ice.
The heater is the pain as you might have air con, so the way to deal with that is clap bottom outlet, hose pipe on the top one and fill with de-greaser and leave over night. Then put hose pipe one pipe and flush through, on LOW PESSURE don't burst the heater. Do you headgasket as normal and pay attention to removing the amalgam from the sides of the liners and the water jacket in the head. Remove water pump and clean, new thermostate, be careful you can put a K one in the wrong way round, and clean out the back metal pipe. Bleed from the metal pipe 6mm bolt, then from the jiggle pin in manifold using wielding wire or paper clip to keep it open, add rad flush run 20min drain refill with coolant job should be a good one allow 6/7 hours for the work, and you will have done it as well you can. email if you want any more help
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As far as I understand it, the valve is placed in the manifold from the 'inside', so to do the job properly, I guess you need to take off the manifold, but if you do that you can probably flush it all out nice and clean and then put in a new valve (if that's your wish). If, on the other hand you are the pragmatic type like me (with an 90,000+ engine, so not a lot to lose) you can force the valve back into the water jacket where it drops away. Better there than where it is now! good luck!
The main prob with K is small volume of coolant and a tendency for the header tank not to refill the engine if you start to lose coolant. The temp sender is on the top hose outlet and not on the headgasket line in the cylinderhead, so the head can be full of steam but the top hose is not that hot so the temp gauge shows nothing wrong. Must check header tank once a week on a K min.
I have a 218vvc coupe that a few years ago dumped most of the oil into the coolant, answer new head gasket water system flushed many times till clear. The car ran fine for about 2 years and then started getting traces of mayo goo in the header tank (it still ran fine). Took it to the garage who again changed the head gasket but even after several flushes the goo still appears, the car runs perfectly no overheating, occasional heater matrix blockages but a flush cures that. I have been looking for an answer and found 1 a few months ago. I talked to Moto-build racing in London, the answer could be cylinder liners (I thin thats what they said it was) may have move a fraction of a mm and this causes the oil to seap into the water system, It means a complete strip down of the engine to put them back into place. I also had a 1.4 GTI metro before this that ran great though had a noisy tappet for the last few thousand miles (110000miles on clock) before I sold it certainly where no oil problems there. My current 218vvc coupe has now done 114500miles.
Normal reason for blocked heat and goo in coolant even after a headgasket change is garages are on a time limit, they do the best job they can, but they can't spend the time to remove all the amalgam(goo) they just would not make any money. The only way is to put the new up date gasket on(new steel dowels in the kit) and there are a few factory modds you can do to the coolant system, and be very clean on the rebuild which takes time, you can do this at home but garages can't with there overheads.
I run my own garage and have done numerous head gaskets on the K series with none coming back I'm pleased to say. Regarding garages not having the time to flush the system fully, I find your comments unfair as I have the engines fully flushed with a detergant mix I make up which removes all the sludge. I have had cars running for 4 to 5 hours before they are properly clean. It does not necessarily take a mechanic a long time as the engine does all the work. All that needs to be done is to keep an eye on the temperature and to replace the fluid in tjhe cooling system as required. I do not think you should generalise on garages as some of us are devoted to giving a good job at a reasonable price.
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