ROVER OVERHEATING
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the coolant bottle remains topped up now, still a bit of sludge in it, but the coolant solution is still blue, i am having to pop it back to the garage next week - 2 weeks after the head gasket has been done - TERRIER - do you usually advise this, we were told to take it back so the garage can flush the system out again save the gasket going again! i think and hope its just routine after gasket being done, she does run like a dream again but now breaks squeaking like i ran over a pussy cat! any advice greatly appreciated, can i not just put some WD40 on the break disks!!!!
Regarding the brake squeal. All you need to do is remove all the linings, clean the brake dust from the calipers etc and apply copper grease to the BACKS of the pads .
thanks for your advice. do you know anything about squeeky breaks on Rovers!! if i break fast it doesnt make the noise, if i break slowly, slowly depressing the break it gives out a right squeeakkkkK!!!!
As for amalgam or goo that must be clean out as the water under pressure boils at 120 deg ish, but if the amalgam is left in. that gets up to 200 deg so where its stuck all over the engine,it leaves you with hot spots all over the engine specially on the lines or top water jacket in the head, that means the cooling system is not working as it was designed. The flushing fluid is not the main way to remove it, thats down to the fitter, its a last finishing touch as back up. You have just got to work clean and do the best job you can, each one is diffent.
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I have a Rover 400 1.4 , i have experienced endless problems , my major problem is the car not heating up. The temperature has started rising dramatically recently, all the pipes in the engine getting explodingly hot but no hot air coming into the car. I have flushed the pipes and they are fine even bought a new thermostat but not fitted on mechanics advise as he says all the pipes get hot so no need for thermostat. Have been advised that could well be heating matrix issue not so sure though , been looking for the inlet manifold but cannot find it anywhere where exactly would it be located. Would very much appreciate some feedback , Thanks
The heater problem could be an air lock due to the excessive heat. Check ALL the hoses are the same sort of temperature.
Unless you fill the colling system correctly, it is Very easy to get an air lock in it. Make sure that when you fill the system, that the engine is NOT running, and the heater is set to HOT.If the system is filled with the heater set to cold, an air lock develops straight away as the heater control is a valve that controls the flow of hot water
Back in October, I noticed my Rover was running very rough, struggling to gain speed and stalling if I applied too much gas in low gears (I stalled more than once pulling into traffic, eesh!). It was really bad when cold, but still misfired (that's not really the right word for it I don't think, but hard to describe, the car sort of momentarily loses power and jerks) when doing 80mph after 100 miles of driving. The temperature sensor also climbed very high one time, apart from that it was fine. Took it to a garage who said the problem was the head gasket and moisture was getting into the engine overnight and causing misfires. They quoted me £700. I went it and told them I didnt think it was the HG because of the fact it does it after many miles when any moisture will have been driven off. Took it to another garage and they said it was rusty electrical connectors causing misfires. They cleaned them up and the car was solid again. Now, in the last couple of days, the problem is back, and probably worse than before. The first thing I noticed was the temperature gauge rose to almost red while I was sitting in the BK drive-thru. When I pulled away the temperature fell back to normal within 30 seconds. I'll go and check the oil, coolant and plugs for any problems. Hopefully the problem is electrical again rather than mechanical. Any ideas?
Just because it won't start doesn't mean the head gasket has gone, although it could have. Does it sound "normal" when it is turning over ? Have you got any means of doing a compression test ? Check for a spark plus the obvious, plugs, cap, rotor and fuel.
I will check the plugs. Fuel is fine. Not a car expert, computer man myself, so Im fumbling a bit in the dark, and am starting my own business at the moment, so money is very low and a car is a necessity really. What is there to look for in the cap and rotor? Do Halfords sell compression testers? I know in the US you can pick one up from Sears for $20. Otherwise I could get one of these mobile guys to come around and do the test.
You should be able to pick a compression tester up quite cheap, I would go to a motor factors or car accessory shop, Halfords are a bit dear. Dont buy a push in compression tester, unless you have very long arms.
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