rover 416 starting / running problem
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You mentioned an additive for the gear box? what sort of additive?? The primary Shaft bearing?? would this make a noise even if the clutch is pressed down because once the clutch is pressed down then there is no noise what so ever. Thank you for getting back to me. I need to get it sorted other wise me dad will kill me. Matt
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The additive I said about is just to quieten down noisy gearboxes, some work some don't. It is worth a try though.
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Also do you know if you can fit Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution Engine Fit in to a Rover 416 as the engine brackets seem to be in the same place?
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You can fit any engine in any car if you are willing to put the hours (and expertise) in. Don't forget, it isn't just the engine, you need to uprate the brakes, suspension and chassis.
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I had exactly the same problem with my Rover 414 until I took it to a garage who said the steper motor required replacing at a cost of £260 which I accepted !!! above and behold problem was still there. I kicked off and because the work was covered by warrenty they replaced the ECU unit £400 new free of charge. Since then it runs like a dream. Eric
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well i guess im not the only one with 416 sli, p reg 97 problems it all started a few weeks ago, when i started it it got really sluggy for a few minutes then cleared when at a good running temp. then about a week ago i was driving down a duel carridge way when it lost power at about 60mph so i put my foot down to higher the revs it coughed and spluttered then seemed to clear the problem. then tonight 14/12/06 i went out to start it, all it does is turn over once then sounds like a machine gun! with it not kicking in at all. to be fair i dont drive it daily infact it might be 2 times a week if its lucky. does this sound like my fuel pump or ecu? so if anyone can offer some help and advice before i kill my wallet i would really appreciate it! cheers mark
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that sounds like a flat battery. when its charged, give it a good run down a motorway and clear out those cobwebs!
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Had the same problem and it was as somone said, it was the earth lead had corroded and partially severed. make sure all contacts are clean and intact. this only takes up your time and not your money. ( WORTH CHECKING )
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wonder if someone could give a few pointers. Not long recently had head gasket done, at same time replaced stat, pump, rad, ht leads, dizzy cap and expansion cap. This week i have noticed that when it reaches 3000 rpm i loose power and feels like ignition has been switched off. I let of throttle and re-apply pressure and its fine till hit 3000 rpm again. My top speed is barely 60 at the mo. Something else i noticed is that my temp gauge hardly moves of cold even tho the heating system in car is hot. Is this related if not what should i be checking. Many thanks
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Brian
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We have a Rover 416 Tourer on a P plate, it has run fine until now. After driving for about 10-15minutes pressure builds up in the cooling system and ultimately pours out of the expansion tank, the temp guage does not change at this point it remains as it should but would begin to rise if I left the motor running. Suggestions have been - head gasket, faulty cap on expansion tank, water pump (bottom hose does not seem to get hot) thermostat stuck (can't find it, is it hidden somewhere obscure) There is no tell tale sign of water in the oil or under the rocker filler cap car is running well, just need to stop and put in 2 litres of water every 20 miles. Wilf
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It sounds like you could have an air lock, follow the thin hose from the top of the expansion tank to the engine, where it joins at the inlet manifold is a small metal pipe, this contains a small ball bearing which often sticks and causes problems. It could still be the head gasket as there are not always obvious signs.
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Thanks once again
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I have a Rover 416 SLi 1996 (not the honda engine). About a month ago it started cutting out while driving. Basically the car would be fine starting from cold and about 15mins into my commute to work the engine just shut down. This then happened a few times over subsequent days, particularily while crawling along in slow traffic (in and out of first gear etc.) Anyway I booked it in for a service on the 22nd Dec 06. The mechanic replaced the alternator and gave the car a full service but didn't road test the car. The same problem manifested itself the following day, except this time thanks to the new alternator the car re-started no problem. So back to the mechanic again, this time he held onto the car over 2 days and drove it himself. He said he identified the problem (a loose fuel pump valve sensor?). So I got the car back and drove it for another couple of days. Guess what? yep the original problem is back again. Yesterday it cut out on me while reversing and also while changing from 2nd gear to 3rd while moving along (the revs just drop to zero and the engine stalls). So back to the mechanic again. He looked mystified this morning and said he doesn't know what the problem could be. He suggested that it might be the Idle Air Control valve. He's going to try and source one and fit it. I told him not to buy any parts before I know how much it's gonna cost, I'm beginning to think this problem may be terminal which is a shame because I like the car. I don't know much about cars so can anybody help with suggestions as to what it could be that a mechanic wouldn't normally spot or be aware of? btw. he's a good mechanic and came highly recommeded to me. I beleive he has been genuinely trying to fix the problem. cheers,
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Things have moved on a bit since we last contacted, I replaced the expansion tank cap - solved the problem of losing water out the tank but have now noticed smaller water loss and tell-tale signs of white cream under rocker cover cap - head gasket for sure ? whats the cheapest remedy ? Wilf
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Take the car for a good run, with short or stop start journeys the engine may not warm up completely. Check oil is still clean and the same with the coolant. Check the water pump for leaks (not always apparent) If it still appears to be the head gasket then get a second opinion and if necessary get it done immediately, putting it off increases the risk of doing more damage.
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Edited by Matt 8 December 2006, 10:01 AM
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