rover 416 starting / running problem
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Starter wont turn engine -or turns but wont fire up??
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Try this when it gets dark enough to see the brightness of the headlights. With the headlights on crank the engine, do the headlights dim at all? If not at all & very little cranking then you have poor contacts or duff starter. If the lights go very dim then you either have duff battery, short circuit or duff starter. Can you take the tops of the battery cells to check the fluid levels? If so do this carefully as acid burns. Check fluid levels & top up if needed. Best use as much protection as you can before doing this next check. When cranking look into the battery to see if one or more cells are boiling. If so then the battery is us. With a volt meter attached to the battery while cranking what is the voltage sustained after 5 seconds. A good fully charged battery will indicate about 9 volt & remain steady. Economy batteries may indicate 7 or 8 volts. A good but discharged battery will indicate 9 volt then drop away to 3 volt & remain there. A faulty cell will indicate 9 volt drop to 3 volt remain there or rise to 6 volt. A shorted cell will indicate 0 volt & rise to about 6 volt. Hope this helps.
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peterb
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Did he take it apart, as if he didnt he was wasting your time and his
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He may have carried out a current draw test which is a reasonable indication on the electrical system
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thanks peterb
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peterb, just extremely baffling never been caught out with getting cars started but this one beats me, starts when it wants to doesnt start when i want it to HELP HELP OR IM GONNA TAKE A BIG HAMMER TO IT PETERB
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Doesnt tell you condition of motor internally though,so I would have stripped it to find out, as mentioned
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1. The car's fitted with the two button key fob to open central ,locking and disable immobiliser, alarm etc. If however I disconnect the battery for any reason, the alarm sounds and will not stop. Does anyone know of a way to stop this? 2. In the event that a fob fails on me, the price for a relacement here is around £80.00 which I think is nuts. The fob is a Lucas 3TXB Key. Anyone know where these can be bought for a reasonable price as Rover here say a generic fob won't work with my alarm. 3. Recently the car started idling slower than normal resulting in some vibration around the steering wheel and fascia. I took the car in anyway for a mini service to a local garage (not Rover) and asked him to check it, which he did and the he adjusted the accelorator cable, basically just tightening it to bring the revs up at idle to 850rpm. Now, this cured the vibration but I'm not sure all he's done is mask the original problem as now sometimes when I stop and put the gear in Park and let the car idle it'll settle at 1100 - 1200 for a minute or so before dropping down slowly to 850rpm. I've also noticed sometimes with the air con on, the idle dips / wavers a little and a few times it's dropped to around the 600rpm mark and spluttered and I've had to tap the accelerator to bring the revs back up. Any ideas anyone?? Sorry for the long winded message!!
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You could get a second had fob off ebay but it would need to be programmed. It is possible that your car is on the european frequency so one from the uk may not work. Some aftermarket alarms are able to learn your fob code. Adjusting the tickover by adjusting the throttle cable is not the way to sort this. The ecu is now trying to adjust the tickover with false values. The throttle pot sensor should be set up correctly. Ensure your engine is serviced & check that there are no vacuume leaks. check all the sensors & check the ecu fault codes. Reset the ecu by disconnecting for half an hour. Now see how it runs. If no better then you should try a replacement ecu. You could get a second hand one with a replacement key fob for about £50-60 mail order. Or contact Quoman, look through the thread for his details or checkout http://www.ecuclinic.com
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