talbot express motorhome
Messages 1601 to 1620 of 1996. < Previous 1 ... 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 ... 100 Next >
Firstly my own position is that I have a petrol talbot so I am not personally familiar with your type of engine. However in 35 years of working on diesel engines from 1 Hp up to 20,000Hp, I have never heard of a " virus" in fuel. What might be of some help is to ask your garage man exactly what he means by this and what type of virus it is and get back to me with his reply. What can happen though is that you get water in the tank and this accompanied with the motion of a vehicle can sometimes cause fuel to emulsify, often into a whitish creamy substance. Also because the diesel is lighter than the water this stays at the bottom of the tank and gets picked up by the pump suction. Obviously the water emulsion wont burn, but will go through the injection system just like fuel. Remembering that the amount of fuel sent out to each cylinder even at high revs is miniscule, it doesnt take a lot of emulsion to get into the injection pump to cause a misfire or even a partial or full engine shutdown. My first thoughts to clear this would be to run the tank down to about the empty warning mark - check the weather forecast and with a run of 2/3 days of fine sunny weather ahead, Drain down the tank completely, into clean and most importantly dry! clear plastic drums - leave these somewhere undisturbed. Leave the van to stand with the tank empty and the drain plug out for a day or two in warm summer conditions and then refill again only to just above the warning mark on the gauge, couple of gallons or so. This is going to mean that you will need to prime up the system before you can run the engine. If you are not comfortable with how to do this bit then part refill the tank straight away. Run it around on the bumpiest twistiest roads you can find till almost empty.drain again into clear containers.and let these stand for a couple of days. By now you will have two lots of drained fuel and if the containers are clear enough you will see any emulsified fuel as if there is a good quantity, it will form a definite boundary layer between itself and the fuel at the bottom of your plastic drums. A little bit will tend to look like small globules within the fuel probably at the bottom of the drums ( think Lava lamp on a small scale! ) If you are not able to get clear containers, take regular samples, especially from the beginning of the draining process and use the big clear 2 ltr lemonade bottles to view the samples. At the same time look for any particle debris in the fuel, rust or other foreign bodies, sometimes the inside of the rubber filling line can deteriorate and this appears as tiny black specks. If you havent got any emulsified fuel,and it is clean, then this fuel can go back in but be sure you use a funnel with an extremly fine mesh filter to refill. If you have got emulsification then you need to look where the water has come in from. First suspect would be the sealing ring around the filler cap. Otherwise look at the joints between the body shell filler and the flex pipe and the flex pipe and the tank mouth. One thing that just occured to me - make sure the tank hasnt had a bash underneath which has pushed the drain plug upwards as this could mean that when you drain the tank you are not getting everything that is in there out. ( picture if you will an old fashioned lemon squeezer.) This should confirm or clear away your virus problem. By all means e.mail me back with more info and let me know how you are geting on. 6 weeks waiting for the garage at this time of year when we really want our vans is atrocious. My garage guy would have been strung up long before now!!!! Cant help you with the dry air filter other than to say it is not unusual for both fuel and oil breathers to vent into the air filter as the vapour whic obviously is volatile gets sucked back into the engine and burnt up as fuel. I recall a spectacular blow up on a large deisel engine pump set where a relatively small piston blow by caused the crankcase pressure to feed the lube oil into the air cleaner and the engine just kept slowly speeding up as it got more fuel ( in the form of lube oil ). As the governor worked on the diesel, it shut off the fuel, but the engine had enough momentum and heat to keep burning the oil and just kept on increasing in revs untill it literally exploded cylinder heads flying off and the pistons appearing outside the crankcase. All good fun!!! Hope this is of some help Kind regards B.K.
We have: Talbot Express Autosleeper Rambler GL 2.0ltr Petrol Manual 1991 vintage. I have the Greyston spring assistor kit KR6101E ready to fit this weekend. The kit includes an adjuster plate for the load sensing brake system. This is set up according to the rear axle weight, the choices given for the J5 are: 1000kg Hole B 1400kg Hole C 1800kg Hole D Has anybody fitted this kit to the same model as ours ? If so, which setting did you use ? Has anyone had the rear axle weight measured for this model ? The Autosleeper manual gives a gross vehicle weight of 2450kg, assuming an even weight distribution, this would give an approx gross rear axle weight of 1225kg.......the nearest setting for this is hole C. Anyone any thoughts on this ? I intend to get my local garage to test the brake efficiency after fitting the kit. Thanks in advance for any info Vince Ps For info: I have just replaced the rear engine mount, still available from Citroen part number C184441, cost £65.13. (85mm bush diameter).
Regards Rich
My 1989 petrol Talbot has a reasonably new engine and inside is spick and span but the doors and front off side wing have seen better days. I have tried the breakersyard website but with no luck.Is there anyone out threre who can help me find some good body panels? (All the doors and a wing) Thanks for you help so far as I have followed the thread.
I have a 1994 Talbot Express Autosleeper and have used a chap in Chard called Mike Chubb, he runs a company called No1Gear,you can phone him on 01460 67000 or e-mail at [Log in to view email] I hope this is usfull to you,and you find what you are looking for. Regards Brian.
Wyn.
Most worrying is that the M.O.T. is due July 5th. We normally have it done June 4/5th so that we go away during the summer with an easy mind. It was booked in for 6th June but my wife rang and cancelled it saying:" how can you do an M.O.T. if it cannot be driven?" She was told it could be driven. However, this is not the case. Our mechanic will now be on holiday from the 20th June!! We cannot get the vehicle home/to another servicer or even a scrapyard( God forbid) and feel totally gutted. If we cannot get an M.O.T how can we possibly run/test it after we have paid for more work to be done? If I have been successful in getting back to you, will give you further details of what I was able to ascertain to-day(13.06.08) Incidentally, the "gunge" was a black jelly like substance according to our mechanic. As " Her Indoors said" how heartening that someone with nothing to gain has taken the trouble to comment on our problem when the person we have paid hundreds to, over the past 10 years, did not have the courtesy to keep us informed . Regards -- Not much fun if you are about to get your head chopped off-
I fitted the kit last March to my 1994 Compass Drifter, fitted the brake adjuster to hole D, working on the heaviest possible, then on hole C, and couldn't notice any difference, took it off, and still couldn't tell any difference, but I don't go above 55 mph as that is what I'm used to, being a truck-driver, semi-retired?? But the springs made a world of difference to the handling. Her indoors swears it's the best money I've spent on the van. I'm getting it MOTed next month, so I'd be interested in what your garage comes up with
Now must try and find a new tank urgently as well as fathoming a way of getting the vehicle back home. Many thanks for your kind help - You wouldn't happen to live in the south Warwickshire area , you certainly deserve a pint? Regards - stressed out Den. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Sorry to hear of your "mechanic" ( i use the word advisedly!) troubles. If the prime button and the bulb are sucking in then clearly the suction line between tank and priming pump has a blockage or restriction somewhere. I agree if it were the tank vent you would expect to hear an inrush of air when you remove the cap. That suggests that it is in the supply line from the tank to the pump. It is entirely possible that a combination of a flake of rust and a build up of your " black jelly" behind it inside the pipe would be enough to cause enough of a blockage to fuel against the suction of the priming pump. Depending on where you stand with your " mechanic" it might be worth asking him to try removing the fuel line from the pump and forcing compressed air backwards down it i.e towards the tank.It may clear it enough for you to MOT it and drive it the short distance home. I dont know how much of a DIY mechanic you are but my first approach now would be to get an empty gallon can and a good length of fuel tube say 2 - 3 mtrs, that is the same size as the connection to the priming pump inlet. You will also need the olive or ring that fits on the tube. I suggest you look in the yellow pages for a diesel centre or specialist - they should have these bits available for a few quid. If not try a scrapyard or commercial vehicle repairer. Drill a hole in the screw cap of the gallon can that is a tight fit on the tube. Insert the tube from the outside well into the cap say 100mm. Seal around with good quality bathroom sealant and put aside for 24 hours to thoroughly cure. Once its cured it will hold against diesel for long enough for what you will need. If you now remove the suction line at the priming pump i.e from the tank- and replace it with the line coming from the outside of the cap and tighten up. Now 3/4 fill the can with diesel. screw the cap on ( actually screw the can onto the cap as you dont want to break the seal on the silicone!!). Heres where you need an assistant or a high step ladder. Raise the can up to about head height and turn upside down so the cap and tube are coming out of the bottom. Now you need to hold it here whilst you prime through the whole fuel system. Once its primed you should be able to start the van and hopefully it should rev up OK. Dont try driving off the assistant might not like running alongside you holding the can and trying to keep up! The step ladder certainly wont manage!! This should prove if you have got fuel starvation or not. On tickover and light revving you should get up to half an hour or so of continuous running on the gallon can. If this resolves the problem then clearly the tank and /or pipes are at fault somewhere. Replacement of the tank is probably the only answer and make sure new flow and return pipes are fitted at the same time. One thing to check is that there isnt something that has moved against the fuel line and trapped it somewhere, try visually tracing it back to where you lose sight of it above the tank. As regards your " black jelly virus" I would suggest that what you have got is a mixture of water and fuel emuslion globules which have been in the tank long enough to cause the inside of the tank to rust. this gives it the black colour. The reason its not brown rust as you see on bodywork is ( I think) because the oxygen for oxidisation is restricted, due to continuous immersion in either fuel or water and the black rust mixes with the emulsion and your black jelly is the result. Once again your solution as you rightly said some time ago is to replace the tank. Sorry to be the bearer of costly tidings but at least if you can try the gallon can test suggested above you can prove to yourself and your good lady that the van engine itself is OK. By the way dont run the engine with a bulb in the suction side of the system - it will almost certainly suck in and give you restriction problems at high speed. Outboard motors get away with them because their pumps are of a much lower vacuum figure than a car or van engine. Hope this helps --and no I'm not anywhere near you unfortunately, Im up in Conway North Wales. Still put one behind the bar -I may be down that way someday!! Kind regards B.K.
there is an organism that lives happily in diesel,dark,jelly like masses gather at the bottom of the tank which,unhappily,is the location of the fuel pickup.This is the main reason for keeping the tank full of fuel,to reduce the ammount of air (oxygen), minimising growth and helping to reduce condensation and rust,this is sometimes refered to as a virus in the trade.Don't bother messing around with cans,fill the tank right up and swap the feed pipe from the tank with the return pipe to the tank,they are side by side so this should take no more than a few seconds,this will pull fuel from halfway up the tank thus bypassing any obstruction at the pickup.It's feasable to run the van like this for sometime,I had just this problem in France a few years ago and spent three weeks touring with the fual system rigged this way,just had to fill up before the fuel level reached halfway.If this cures the problem the only long term answer is a new tank,hope this helps,regards,Delfindesigns.
Re: Greyston springs on Talbot Express. I set the adjuster to hole 'c' and had the brakes checked by my local garage on a rolling road and they passed all tests ok. The ride height has been raised 5cm at the rear axle. This has 'levelled' the van and the ride and handling have also been improved. Just in time for the extra load 'essentials' we will be taking to Glastonbury. Replacing the rear engine mount has improved gear selection and eliminated clutch judder. Regards Vince
Many thanks for your most helpful observations re our fuel problems. We have come to the conclusion that we must try and obtain a new tank & sender and stop this problem once and for all ( been happening on and off for 6/7 years) Will try and find something on line. Will let you know how I get on. Regards, Den.
http://www.beeversautopanels.co.uk/
Small world, my first visit to the seaside was in mid forties to Penmaenmawr with the Boys Brigade! Try to get up to N.Wales couple of times a year to visit mate from Fleet Air Arm days ( He lives at Broughton) but not this year. Very heartened for all advice received; the 'van maybe getting to be an old lady but she is comfortable and in good condition. Will let you know how we get on, Regards Den.
Cheers Den
Bob
Messages 1601 to 1620 of 1996. < Previous 1 ... 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 ... 100 Next >
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Edited by wynthesurfer 13 June 2008, 7:37 PM
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