talbot express motorhome
Messages 1621 to 1640 of 1994. < Previous 1 ... 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 ... 100 Next >
What's the easiest way to find TDC on these vans and is it easy to find ? I've replaced rotor arm, dizzy cap, plugs & leads (dont get me started on plugs !!) now it wont start. Turns & nearly starts repeatedly. I have probably moved the rotor arm out of sync with the firing order. Is finding TDC the only way to get me back running ? Have I mucked my timing up by doing this ? Will my timing need professionally (HA!) re-set ? Thanks for your support. Really need to be up & running pronto. (I've wasted loads of time faffing about with spark plug replacement, grrrrr.....) Cheers, Stan.
Its poss you could have the timing 180 degrees out. Try swapping leads number 1 and 4 around and 2 and 3. The firing order is 1342 but not sure if the dizzy spins clockwise or anti clockwise.
If in doubt take out no one plug ( and all the rest ) and put a long stick down the hole, take off distributor cap and see where the rotor arm is in relation to no one piston being at the top of its stroke. If you take out all the plugs and leave it out of gear you can then turn the engine round with a spanner on the pulley nut. Once you have established that you can move on to number two just to make sure you are right. on the assumption (oh dear ) that you didnt change the plug leads just chech that you have the cap on the the right place i.e it can go on in two places 180 degrees out due to the lugs . If it was running before you did a bit of mechanicing then it should still run. regards Rog
It's an '85 van, so I dont think it's electronic ignition; I marked the old diz cap and the new one in relation to one of teh clips then replaced the leads one by one as I was changing the plugs (which happened to take a number of days...so i could have went wrong there), the new diz cap was then replaced with the mark in the same place. Where I think I've went wrong is when I fitted the new rotor arm, I twisted it and to my surprise it turned very easilly. I thought it wouldnt move because it was linked in some way to the engine (through either crankshaft, cam, etc) and the engine wasnt turning, so would have been fixed. Is it as simple as the rotor arm not being fitted fully home / unseated ?? While I'm at it, what the heck's with the spark plugs ? Deep set, long extension thingys, unviewable, set in a shaft that you can get a socket just into, but not quite back out again (easilly). So (in hindsight) you have to: 1) unscrew the extension, 2) drop a socket in (with the rubber protective sleeve in place if applicable) 3) Get to teh socket with a ratchet and long enough extension bar 4) Get the plug out 5) Attach the extension to the new plug (loosely) 6) Drop it into the shaft 7) Start the thread with your fingers (thin fingers required !!) 8) Unscrew the extension 9) Drop a socket in (withOUT the rubber protective bit) 10) Get to teh socket with a ratchet and long enough extension bar 11) Tighten the plug as appropriate 12) Get the socket back out (if you've got teh sockets I have this is a task in itself - easier to get a teddy from a 50p crane-grab vending machine - an impossibility if you have the rubber bit in your socket) 13) Drop the extension back-in and tighten it up (using either your thin or, by now, bleeding fingers). As an aside, are the black plastic protective tubes required as I cant get my new leads to fit with them in place ?? Cheers all, Stan.
Regarding the rotor arm, the new one I bought did look different to the one I took off in design, but the effective shape and function didn't seem too different. I'll re-check it and also check the old one which I still have. If it works with the old one I'll know where the problem lies. Do all T/E engines have the black tubes down the spark plug channel and are they needed, do you know ? I'll let you know hoew I get on. Cheers, Stan.
either way the rotor arm should lock in position. John G
Hi B.K. and other knowledgeable motor-homers. Have got prices for new tank but not "sender unit" - once again jargon foxes me. Have contacted PEUGEOT DEALER who does not recognise term "sender unit" but suggests "fuel gauge" - is this correct? It is pricey compared to tank( Thanks Usher) ? Really want to get this sorted and not order wrong parts - mechanic back from hols. 30th June. Seems we are stuck as various enquiries have shown ( what we already had sussed out) not many local garages have the facility to lift a 2 and a half ton, 18'ft long, 7' high van for repairs or M.O.T's ( Incidentally, has not failed M.O.T. but "emissions cannot be confirmed/checked" until tank is back on - seems odd to me. Regards - Den Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
any ideas? many thanks
have emailed a few salvage places, will post here if have any results! many thanks 16.25pm right just checked, definately (offside and nearside) rear coil springs not leaf springs...
If that is the case, the MOT should not have failed on the coil springs. Not all MOT testers are conversant with Motor Caravan conversions. Some even try to test under 3050kg motorhomes as goods vehicles even though the chart clearly shows them as class IV. Duncan
..or maybe we should go bachk to the garage and ask him to check the leaf springs are ok...what do you think? btw thankyou for your help! sa green
For the person with leaf spring issues, I replaced both rear springs last winter with new ones from Jones springs in Birmingham. found them through google. They will supply replacement standard springs or springs with an extra leaf. Huge difference to the handling of the van now. Service from Jones was slow, waited about 6 weeks for the springs against a quote of 10 days, otherwise goods OK. Total cost for springs, bushes and new U bolts, about £ 400. Hell of a job to do yourself and would probably prove costly at a garage due to rusted nuts etc. Another firm called rossendale springs ( i think) had standard springs available as a stock item, but were more costly. Kind regards B.K.
many thanks bk, good to know there are suppliers out there!
Incidentally, I found the plate for the rear brake/weight compensator made NO difference which ever position it was mounted on! Probably due to the weight of the van at the back being much higher than a standard empty van!
You may be thinking that what you are looking at are bars rather than leaf springs as you may be looking at a 'single' leaf this will be fixed one end to the chassis then the other end is mounted in a shackle to allow movement when going over bumps.The coil springs you say are there maybe are a spring assister kit that has already been mounted on your van. Just to add The Grayson engineering kit was around £160 & money well spent! Hope this helps.............
many thanks for your information. at the moment dh and me on very steep learning curve, so very grateful to hear other people's experiences!
Messages 1621 to 1640 of 1994. < Previous 1 ... 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 ... 100 Next >
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Edited by stan 19 June 2008, 9:20 AM
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