talbot express motorhome
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I own a 2.5 litre diesel Executive(65,000 miles) and in 2 years since it was serviced have done 6000 miles. When topping up the oil I noticed the oil was black - is it time for a service and if so how often should it be done? A friend has also suggested putting an additive in the next tank of petrol to help clean the injectors - is this advisable? Anyone any thoughts please & thanks for any help.
>From: kristofa >Posted: Tuesday, 01 September 2009 >Hello, > >I have an autosleeper Ramble GL. Looking to re-carpet the van. Just wondering if anyone has attempted this and if you have any top tips - like how do you get the carpet to bend around/over the front internal wheel arches. Also any good sources for the right type of carpet. > >Cheers > >Kristofa Finding off-the-shelf fitted carpets for these vans is not easy, however it is possible to do the re-carpeting yourself. The wheel arches are the most difficult area. You can obtain 'stretchable' carpet that you can stretch in to shape, then glue it down. Unfortunately this carpet tends to be light duty. With regards to the remaining areas, simply cut cardboard to shape, then use these to cut your carpet. After cutting we take ours to a local independent carpet warehouse who has an edging sewing machine that binds the carpet edging to stop it fraying (Just like the pro carpets). The edging is charges by the length of edging done. To hold the carpet in place, you can obtain poppers to sew on the corners etc. the fix the other half to the floor. Job done and very tidy. HTH
Just when I thought I had the motorhome sorted, many of you will remember the saga of blown engine, replacement to petrol from diesel, then having probs with insurance and DVLA, then after getting it back from garage it almost immediately broke down, garage faults which they put right, well last Thursday it was holiday time. First long weekend away in Van since getting it back (hadn't used the van, only to drive it back from garage and a test run), and the only holiday for this year, I went to Hertford. Booked into the camping site there and went off to Stevenage cinema to see a film. On the way back to the site, guess what, it broke down. Typical. Got the breakdown out (took over an hour), who at first sent just a recovery vehicle to small for the van and no mechanic. Had to wait another 1h and 15 mins until a bigger recovery vehicle came, by then it was dark and had to be taken back home. Got them out again in the morning, and was told the fuel wasn't getting to the carb, probably pump (although new) to take it to my local garage who said they would get one in. Later that day I went back and was told that the old pump was OK but fuel not getting to the pump, and unable to do anything until after the weekend. Holiday ruined. Spoke to garage yesturday who now say it was an electrical fault, a brake in one of the wires, stopping the engine getting a spark. They say that the reason no fuel was getting to the carb was because when the engine doesn't get a spark or turn over properly, it doesn't push the push rod enough into the pump. I've never heard of this before and wondered if it could be true, as my thought was that when fitting the pipes to the tank when they did the engine change, they mixed the outlet pipe with the return feed for which the diesel needed, thus when getting to a half a tank of fuel it stopped pumping. Anybody know if the push rod for the pump doesn't work properly when the engine doesn't get a spark? Thanks, and sorry for the long post.
Thanks also to Usher and Duke of Earl for your responses. Regards,
Best of luck. Spook.
Welcome to the forum, I take it that you have put the 3 way rocker switch on the fridge to the middle for use with the gas and that the gas switch which is under the sink on my Highway is turned on? Please excuse me if it looks like I am teaching you to suck eggs but there is no mark on the switch for gas it just shows mains to the top and battery to the bottom on mine. Regards, Chris Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
The cut off valve is only open when the ignition is on thus allowing petrol into the carb, when you switch off the engine the valve closes to stop any flooding of the carb. Any petrol under pressure from the pump then returns to the tank via the petrol return pipe That wire breaks quite often at the spade connection or it gets pulled off by accident. Mechanic's don't push it on far enough or it just comes loose. How ever it comes off the result is always the same, engine stops or will not start due to fuel starvation. To check if the wire is live, disconnect it from the valve and use a test lamp or meter, with the ign on you should get a reading/light on. If you get a reading and still no petrol in the carb its a faulty valve. TAKE GREAT CARE WHEN DOING THIS AS THERE IS A RISK OF SPARKS WHICH COULD IGNITE THE PETROL FUMES. Hope this helps AWT ___________________ Nil illegitimi carborundum. (Don't let the B.....d's grind you down)
This is called an Idle Cut Off value. As AWT says a 12v electromagnet and will prevent it from starting. Most likely what they are referring to. The Idle Cut Off valve does not prevent the engine running on higher throttle positions when the engine uses the main jet circuit. It contributes to low/mid throttle loads so does have a significant effect here and a failure would pretty much render the vehicle undrivable as a result. To test (1) with the ignition on pull the wire on/off the idle cut off valve. You should here a distinct click as the valve activates, (2) With your hand on the trottle on the carb take the engine to about 2500RPM and hold it there, now pull off the idle cut off wire. As the engine is coasting in a high RPM no-load situation it will be partially using the idle circuit so will start to stumble. Open the throttle wider and the engine will pick up again, albeit running rougher than usual, and you can hold it here on the throttle. Has the garage explained which wire was "stopping the engine getting a spark" as they put it as it won't be the Idle cut off wire (nothing to do with ignition except that is where it draws its power from so fuse would blow if earthed).
Let us know if it was the Idle Cut Off wire they were referring to, and if not what. I hope that is what it is, and not something they did whilst looking for an intermittent fuel supply issue.
Thank you for your responses to my previous post. As I said I've bought a Talbot Express 1000 P (1971cc) First Reg 1991. Could anyone recommend a good and reasonably priced mechanic in London - I live in East London. From my previous post about gear shift problems I'm guessing that the rear engine mount needs to be replaced as well the O-Ring at the base of the gear stick . Could anyone give me an idea of how much work is involved in changing these and a ball park on how much it might cost so that I know if I'm getting ripped off. I'd guess that the O ring is pretty straight forward but the Engine mount is more complicated? I've not really owned a car or van before so I'm pretty green when it comes to these things. Also, The van conversion is an Autosleeper. It has a Valiant Boiler (which is leaking but I should be able to get that sorted), 3 way fridge, Shower cubicle, and just above the sink there is 1 UK powerplug hole. Hoping this setup is pretty standard so that my question makes sense... The fridge runs off battery power only when the ignition is on, so when stationary I run it off gas or mains. The water pump and lights work (when turned on at the control panel) off the leisure battery no worries. The power plug only seems to work off mains. Does this seem right or should it also run off the leisure battery? Will I need to make some changes to get it working off the battery? Finally, There is a round 12V plughole (a bit bigger than a TV Ariel plughole) What do I use this for? Sorry if my questions seem a bit simple/stupid, your responses are appreciated. Many Thanks,
Hi dazza Fridge - yes you are correct! Water pump/ lights - correct! Mains socket - this will only run when mains lead plugged in as it's for running 248 volt appliances. The small socket sounds like a 12 volt point to run off other appliances that are 12 volt. Good luck! Dave
The Recovery mechanic (not from the local garage, but my insurance) took the pipe of the carb to see if it was pumping fuel and when turning the engine over it didn't. He took the pump off and checked the push rod and pump. The push rod was working when turning over the engine, the mechanic thought it could be the pump, but wasn't absolutly sure as he didn't have any piping to try and suck up fuel from the tank. He then took the motorhome to the local garage that did the work for the engine change, they also couldn't get any fual through. They even connected an independant electric pump, and still no fuel. Then said they couldn't do it until after the weekend. The end of Monday I rang to be told it was done. Why I think it could be the switched pipes is because, the first time it broke down with no fuel getting through, it was at exactly half a tank full. Mind you there were other faults like the fuel solanoid that was left unscrewed, the coil terminals taht are bolted on were left undone and the fuel tanks pipe was squashed under the tank. These were supposed to have been corrected. So of course not very happy when I broke down again with exactly half a tank of fuel. The engine suddenly had no power and just cut out. The local garage, when quized over the no fuel to the carb, gave the electrical fault and not pushing the rod on the machanical pump enough. When I asked about why no fuel with the electric one they tried, they said it was one that was lying about under a bench that they found didn't work, although I heard it spinning away when connected to the battery. It just seems like they are trying to get themselves out of trouble by saying an electrical fault and not their incompitence. Especially when they got defensive when I questioned them over the electric pump, and said I was suggesting they were lying. I wasn't, I was trying to understand why, but it has led me to believe they are lying.
IMO 16mpg on LPG is entirely reasonable for a coachbuilt in this environment. Regards, Steve (feeling somewhat acronimistic tonight :)
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Edited by suntrecker 2 September 2009, 7:08 AM
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