talbot express motorhome
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I'm not familiar with the Zig mc models, but no doubt somebody will come along soon who is! The simplest way of finding out if you have a split charge system is to put a test meter (a very good investment if you haven't already got one - under a tenner at Halfords, Maplin and loads of other places) across the leisure battery with the engine off and the meter set to 20V DC. Start the engine and do the same again. If you have a split charge system, the voltage in the leisure battery will increase (probably to around 13.8 volts) It's possible that the Zig also has a charging facility when hooked up to the mains; a lot of them do, but some don't! If you want a general overview of Zig units, have a look at http://www.freewebs.com/12voltsdc/zigmanuals.htm Unfortunately it appears that he doesn't have a manual for your particular model, but browsing through those he does have will prove useful. Hope that helps. D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
we hooked her up to the mains last night, the zig unit has a 'charging' light which is on and a battery symbol with two lights, one for full and one for empty (we assume, because of the pictures!) It's been on charge all night but neither of the battery lights is on this morning. Both batteries are new. So I guess it's off to buy a tester from Halfords The fridge has chilled down nicely though
If it is only a small adjustment to the tickover use the Constant CO screw (the large one on the side of the carb with the spring under it). Turn it a small amount (half turn) at a time. If this does not get the idle to an acceptable point put the constant CO screw about mid-way and use the throttle-stop screw ( the one on the lower-left when viewed from the front and adjusted from underneath) to get a reasonable idle speed then use the COnstant CO screw to fine-tune this. There are some useful images posted by MrD and myself on a recent Carb thread together with some advice from "Layla's Dad" which you'll find helpful. MrD's image also includes the Russek mixture adjustment procedure which is very useful. The only thing to watch for is that in this diagram/procedure Russek refer to the Constant CO screw as the Throttle stop screw which is a little confusing, but their other image (also posted) labels it correctly. You might as well check the idle mixture adjustment as well whilst you are there(!) It is well worth getting some manuals for this vehicle if you intend to keep it. Best wishes, Steve
Sorry for the long-time delaying, but I'm near Kettering, Northants. I'd love to get the thing working. So I need to source a new fire/boiler and then get it fitted. Part of me doesn't want to sell thanks to the advice of 'an expert'. But when I picked up the Talbot last night with a full year's ticket, the mechanic admitted that the 'expert' only enjoyed easy jobs where he checks habitation areas and then charges for it. So maybe it's not as bad a job as he's making out.... Bertie
I want to source a Carver/Truma space heater for my G-reg Highwayman. Any ideas where they can be sourced? Keep up the good work, Bertie
still runs beautifully and has no probs except a little age and the gear lever... anyone had any similar probs with the layout of the gear lever not the gear box? anyone an avid collector of these vans? i have to part with mine so soon! move to the city demands a sale.... Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Regarding your gas heater enquiries, in my part of the country we have two caravan breakers worth trying. You could try phoning Martin Glanville at Gosport tel: 0239 260 2988 or mobile 07889 085470. Also try Graham Chambers at Autotech Leisure at Poole tel: 0120 262 2195 or mobile 07976 256514. Good luck, Ted.
Also is there anyway to lubricate the fan's bearings ? Mine's quite squeaky which is probably what overloaded the themal cutout in the first place, thanks Jay
I have a spare which I could measure the resistance of if that is any help to you? Regards, Steve
thanks sarah
This website may hold the answer to your problem. If you want to complete the plate information yourself then Maplin has a punch set http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=217873 Cheers. (",)
Jaybird
The small cylindrical thermal fuse has zero resistance as one would expect, and the following markings (laid out below as they appear on the cylinder): The other markings on the resistor pack itself should be visible in the attached photo. This is the later model heater (1991 on). Hope that helps,
Yes I think 184c is the temperature at which it fails. This will be the temperature of the fuse wire and not the air temperature. I'm certainly no expert on these things but I believe thermal fuses allow the start up current to be much higher to get over the inital inertia in a device (fan in this case) , so the fuse heats up rapidly but does not blow unless it stays at this current for sufficient time that the fuse's thermal failure point is reached. Ordinarily the high initial load will only last a fraction of a second then drop back to a more sustainable rate as the fan starts to spin. RS components list 184 c thermal fuses but only 240v. Best wishes, Steve
I think mine is actually some sort of cut-out ie it re-sets itself, not a fuse as your's appears to be, which would blow once and fail Rapid have thermal cutouts which use bi-metallic strips. I've drilled mine off the board and it appears to say 90degrees on it so I've ordered a thermal switch at 90 deg. we shall see if it works J
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Edited by Docsavage 21 September 2009, 2:30 PM
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