Worcester 240 - no hot water
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btw, it is a Worchester 240 boiler you have yeah? Alan.
You may be onto something, I have tried what you said, and like you described, there was the bleed nipple. I have bled the air, had to refill via the loop, bled again and again, so there is no air in the exchanger now. Fingers crossed that this will do the trick. Thanks again, I will let you know the result. This will probably be in a couple of days, so that I can monitor the situation. Many thanks Cliff
The radiators are there normal hot temperature, had heat exchanger taken out and flushed,flow switch and temp sensors checked ok, still no better, BG are hell bent on trying to flog me a new boiler ( £2000+) even though its only 10 years old, Have had the system powerflushed by BG and a magnaclean fitted but still no improvement, Has anyone got any suggestions on what the problem might be and a remedy (its doing my head in
1) Divertor valve diaphragm. 2) Divertor valve itself sticking. The message thread will tell you how to check, etc. Alan
I have just ordered a new diverter valve as found info elsewhere which suggests this could be not operating properly and causing a problem in the exchanger? We can but try!! Thanks again Cliff
I have been told the hot water one is very difficult to flush out, needs removing and heating up in an oven etc. If hot water is not hot with heating off it could also be the Diverter Valve, these are easily bought from B.E.S. plumbing on the net about £33 including Delivery, and about an hour or so to fit about 5 fittings. The Worcester 240 Combi boilers are very hard wearing, mine is 1992/5 and still going strong you just need to check each system out to see which part is not working, (Heating and Hot Water separately), if the rads are hot the boiler must be working OK. Good luck, new boilers on ebay about £400/£500 including delivery. GS
Just to say I have now fixed my boiler. I have a brand new diaphragm for sale as i had to replace the whole diverter valve in the end. One only for purchase here: http://www.buyme1.co.uk/acatalog/Boiler_Parts.html I had a constant clicking on and off when using the Central Heating, the boiler would fire up for a few minutes then the clicking would start and the boiler would switch off. Sometimes it would stay on for a few hours, then the clicking would start up and the boiler would switch off. The Hot water was always working fine. Solution: Drained the system including heat exchanger Replaced the whole diverter valve Filled the system Bled the rads Bled the heat exchanger Fired up the system by putting on the hot tap Bled the pump All working spot on now, it seems the old diverter valve was clogged up and sticking which was causing problems with the heat exchanger. Total time from start to finish was about an hour - I am no plumber. If your heating is fine but you get no hot water then you should only need to replace the Diaphragm - a 10 minute job. Hope this helps. Ray Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Alan.
the valve is basically 2 parts. There are 2 allen screws located on the top and bottom (on the middle section of the valve) Unscrew these and the front part will pull out the the rear part. You should then be able to access the rear part a little easier. Ray
About 2 months ago my Worcester 240 started to drip from the left side (as you look at it) sometimes it doesn't drip, sometimes it drips as much as 500ml per day. Yesterday, mid-shower, the hot water suddenly stopped. It still occasionally comes on if I turn a hot tap on full. The dripping from the boiler has also become more constant. CH is fine, and I do get warm/hot water when the CH is on, which indicates that the water is flowing through the boiler. From what I can tell on this thread, it is the diaphragm/seals that are the problem, and the dripping is presumably due to damage incurred by a seal somewhere. Is it worth paying £150 for BG to come out and fix it? or Should I have a go myself? I'm reasonably competent and probably above average with this kind of thing, but I've never tackled a boiler before. Thanks in advance.
Good lick. Alan.
You will need a mixed bag of fibre washers for all the connections on the diverter valve, if you decide to replace it totally. Even if you change just the diaphragm you will still need a couple of fibre washers, but more importantly you will need a rubber O ring for the expanding coupler which joins the diverter valve to the heat exchanger. I got a mixed bag from B&Q for £1.08 after every plumbers merchant i tried said that none they had would do the trick, and i would need the whole coupling. I used the small one from the bag and it seals perfect. Also check the joints near the pressure relief valve for the leak, my system had a small leak and i found that the connection to the pressure relief valve had come loose. If you remove the side panels and drop the control box you should be able to see a bit more. Make sure you drain down the system and shut off the pipes. When bleeding do all the rads, the heat exchanger and also bleed the pump . Worked for me. Ray
I'm going to B & Q tonight to buy some bits, I'll keep posting my progress here (which is the only forum where I have been able to find a solution to the problem). If I get out of my depth then I'll just call BG, I'm not bothered about the cost, but I'd like to be able to have a go myself. I've never drained a system before, so I'll try that a few times before getting down to the repair. Also, I don't have a manual for my Worcester, are there any diagrams online? I don't know what the pressure relief valve looks like. Thanks for your help.
Alan.
It is the diverter valve that I need to replace, or the diaphragm inside of it. I suspect now that the leaking problem is a separate issue. I drained the heating system, (very easy for those who haven't done it before, it's about 2 paragraphs in the B&Q manual) but realised that this is not what I needed to do, as obviously DHW (except it's not hot) still comes through. Would it be possible to have a step by step of what it is that I need to do to drain the hot water, and then replace the valve? I assume that it is something like the following process: 1) Turn off boiler power. 2) Turn off water to boiler (or the water main) 3) Run hot taps until no more water comes through (presumably this means that there is no water in the boiler anymore). 4) Take off diverter valve, replace diaphragm or whole valve. 5) Replace valve. 6) Turn on water to boiler. 7) Turn on boiler power. 8) Run hot taps to pull the water through (hopefully now hot water). Does that cover everything, or will I blow myself up! I won't do anything until someone confirms this process (I have to wait for the valve to be delivered anyway). Thanks again for the help.
If not, I ahve one at home and I'll scan it and attached it as a photo if you want here. Alan.
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