Worcester 240 - no hot water
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Its the white tank with a drain cock on the right hand side. Ray
I don't have a manual, as the boiler was installed in the house when I bought it. If you could scan the manual then I would be very grateful! Thanks.
I have a 240 & has served us well for around 8 years, I have changed the diaphragm & later when that had failed changed the whole diverter valve and everything has been fine except the water runs cold after a while when filling the bath with the taps on full, its fine if the taps are open ¾. However over the last few weeks a new problem has developed that doesnt seem to be covered in the thread, so I will do my best to explain in the hope someone can help. With the heating OFF the system pressure stay's constant @ 1 bar however when the heating kicks in the gauge shows 3.5 4 bar which opens the pressure release valve but the heating stay on & is fine. When the system cools the system pressure has dropped, (because of the water loss through the relief valve) so the system requires a top up or it shuts down when hot water is drawn , this seems to be a constant cycle. Any suggestions or clues ??? Thanks in advance
Alan.
Alan.
Thats the expansion tank with the tyre valve on, and you need air in that dont you.
Alan
Glad you got yours running good now. I'm a little confused though, I just read the manual and it says the red expansion tank needs to be at least 0.5 bar in pressure. I wouldn't have thought you would need to bleed the expansion tank at all if only changing the diverter valve. When you bled the tank did any water come out or was it just air, and did you re-pressurize it with a foot pump when finished? I am not very up on the exact workings of the boiler so if any plumbers out there can shed some light i would be very interested to hear. Regards Ray
Do I bleed the air out of the red tank or put air in it with a foot pump ?? and is there a bleed valve on the white tank ?? Us Sparks are all the same ok with wires but not so good with pipes & water : ) Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
ray
Alan.
Hi anyone that can help me, My boiler and a gas fire in the bugalow are serviced every year. This year before the service was due we found the hot water only became hot if run very slowly. This is in the bathroom or kitchen and the washing machine seems to get less hot water. A (Corgi and Buy With Confience Member) fitter serviced the boiler and fire at a cost of £78. But still no hot water? A second fitter (CORGI and BWC by local Trading Standards) came and told me i needed a diverter valve at a cost of £126 plus and £50 for telling me and placing the order. Another fitter came the next week fitted a diverter valve at a cost of £126 plus four hours at £40 per hour and i still have no hot water. Now told another fitter from this firm is to come tomorrow at £40 per hour to have another look and see if he can fix the problem. How much should i pay out and do any of you out there know what else i can do.
British gas do a one off boiler repair for about £150 which is guaranteed for 12 months, price is all inclusive on the first fault that they identify. They also do a service plan, which is reasonably priced and would serve as more security than your £72 per year service would. There are details of this on the front page of their website. It sounds to me that you are being messed about a bit I would have no qualms in requesting refunds from fitter numbers 1, 2 and 3, simply because they have not left you with a functional boiler. Just make sure that next time, you are clear about what work will be completed, and how long it will take. British gas are ok, just be patient with the sales people and they'll get someone out.
DO NOT pay out any more, you are being ripped off big time here. You can get a brand new compatible diverter valve for about £45 online. I know I just bought one. I fitted it myself and I am no plumber. It took me a total of 1 hour to completely drain the system, fit the valve and refill and bleed the system. If you have already paid someone to do the work and it is not resolved then they should put it right with no charge whatsoever. If they are not competent to do the job then do not pay them any more. I would demand refunds from all parties you have paid and if they are not forthcoming report them to trading standards and maybe even watchdog. Ray
CH was good - no problems. I replaced the diaphram. it was knackered (isolated the cold feed and both hot and cold CH) Water immediatly became hot. RESULT!! But now the CH AND hot water are cold!! I have to press the re-set switch and boiler will light for 2-10 mins. I have bled everything, the taps,rads,both red and white tank and the expansion on top of the burner. I have filled the system to 3m and then released pressure via red knob 1- Should I have a constant pilot light? because at the minute I do not have a constant pilot - it lights upon demand. 2- Nothing is warm in the CH pipes 3-Diverter switches the micro perfect. 4-Pump gets hot Its really cold in here now guys, please help ASAP I can`t feel my fingers and toes !!
Not having a dig here but this is typical of the message that i was talking about in my rant of a few weeks ago,get a heating engineer in,wrap up warm and wait til Tuesday tho to avoid "Special call out rates" . (which incidentally I don't charge). If you look at your message and think about it you have answered one of your questions yourself,"shouls the pilot be continuous?" > "it goes on and off " = ergo it has some form of self ignition i.e; spark generator elctronic ignition, one question you answered yourself Next and without commiting myself without seeing the boiler, "everything is cold CH and HW " > "the pump is hot" why is the pump hot and nothing else? One POSSIBILITY if the pump is ENERGISED but not CIRCULATING then the heat energy produced within the then STATIC pump will not be dissipated and the heat will remain within the pump head. A faulty pump with the right conditions could have "blown the diaphragm" quite rare but possible. Establish if the pump is runningi.e; Circulating not just "humming". If it isn't you MAY HAVE answered your second question. Not saying it is the pump but it may be. By the way rather than getting the OEM pump look for a grundfoss or SMC pump with same spec and head then just change the head and not the full pump that normally does the job without cracking the joints and havinh 2 more potential leak points,you can do it with an appropriate size Allen key (Allen bit and socket convert with extension and T-bar is easier if you have one tho,undo 4 Allen bolts pull head off new head on ,check O ring is correctly seated,and tighten up. Remember to turn electrics off as well tho ! Please note I have NOT and will not given guidance on anything potentially Gas related and never will. Logic is the Father of cheaper repairs !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Brian
I have tested the pump (removed the silver cap and stuck in the tip of screwdriver) the pump appears OK. I will re-check the diaphram as you suggest and post later.
After spending hours bleeding everything - It was the CH valve stuck in the OFF position, everything fine now.
My diverter valve is goosed. It's leaking water from the centre spindle and does not fully come out. I can see a couple on-line that I can buy but am unsure of the procedure to change it. I have exposed it by removing the front panel and it looks pretty easy to remove but I am unsure of the complete procedure to change it having not really messed around with a boiler before. Can you send me a copy of your manual detailing the procedure. I am not completely sure how to remove the white side panel to get access to it, although I have not really looked in detail yet. Thanks for your help. Jon
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Edited by sandy 11 March 2008, 10:05 PM
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