Worcester 240 - no hot water
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Ok, original fault was water related, tepid water and intermittently cold water. So I bit the bullet and replaced the diverter valve completely as I had done the diagpragm six months previously. I deduced it would be the valve itself which was the problem. Got a nice cheap valve from BES, and proceeded to fit. anyway, after fitting every thing seemed to be ok, but I had a slight leak on one on the nuts, so I powered off again, drained down again and fixed the leak. - i may add I got a bit of banging and popping from the heating, but just assumed this was moving air locks around. Anyway, fixed my leak, and put it all back together...and nothing! when I ask for water, no demand light comes on, and heating does not fire up the bolier either . The "reset" button was out, so i pressed this in again thinking this would sort it.. but no. Now the micro switches are firing OK, and the power is on, and I do get "noises" when I ask for either CH or DHW, but no clicking of the ignitor to fire up the gas! So have I missed anything... bled heat exchanger, bled pump.. I did get a lot of dripping with my leak, but I am sure the circuit boards stayed dry...I am stuck.. have i dislodged something? what else can i check next..also does anyone have a link or can email me a manual? Any help greatly appreciated.
Right, I've just read through all eight pages and whilst my problem is a similar one to many described in it, it isn't quite the same, so I was hoping someone could help me diagnose it... We have a Worcester 240 and yesterday the shower stopped getting hot water, but it appeared the bath and sinks were all fine. Upon further investigation it appears the boiler only switches on to supply hot water to the taps if you run the water really fast and the shower never quite gets the hot going fast enough to do it. So whilst we have hot water, we have to run the taps at stupid speeds and I can't shower. Is this going to be related to the diverter valve/diaphram ? Cheers Marc
That was quick! Thanks. So do you think I need the whole valve? BES site says (http://www.bes.co.uk/products/114.asp): "Diverter valves for named combi boilers, listed below. Supplied with two single pole double throw micro switches (10 A) and washers. Five washers for the connections are supplied." Is that everything I need to do the job?
You either have a perished diagpragm or a stick valve, the complete assy will take care of it. If only someon ewas on to help with my problem!!
Alan.
Alan.
boo hoo...no-one help me with my fault...I am gonna have to go and trouble shoot some more...after bit of tinternet work...I am going to look at the air pressure switch.
try bleeding from the pump. Did you also bleed the heat exchanger? Rads etc Mine didnt work and made a ton of noise until i first bled the heat exchanger until water came out. Then undid the screw on the pump while heating was on, until water came out. Noise stopped as all air was out and works a treat. Ray Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Alan.
The boiler fires up if the water is fast enough. Is there a manual online for the 240, I haven't found one yet? When you say bleed the system, do you mean radiators or the boiler? Is it obvious how to bleed the boiler? I have a friend who starts training as a British Gas service engineer at the end of the month (poor timing!). I'll get him to read the thread and see if he wants a bit of practise... ;) Thanks for the tips...
bleed all rads. Make sure pressure is still good when doing so. bleed the heat exchanger (small tap on lower right side) bleed pump (screw in middle) Check pressure. Re-check all rads.
Ok, I bled the pump, and I bled the white heat exchanger... however my Demand light does not come on, and you dont get the clicking of the ignitor. This is same for DHW and CH. My reset button popped out when I got the banging, I pressed this back in again, but alas no joy. I must have dislodged something becuase any air lock related fault would not stop the thing starting up, it would just make it oiverheat and shut down very quickly. I did have a leak problem when I first replaced the Diverter valve, But I am sure the pcbs never got wet.
As for bleeding. Bleed the expansion tank in the bolier, this is a tyre valve (sort of) on the tank itself and just press the centre in and release the air (if any) until it stops. And also bleed the pump, this is a silver screw on the front, open it a little until you see water drip from it and the it is bled. Also, check what speed the pump is at, it has 3 settings and sometimes the correct flow of water and pressure can stop circulation and give some false or inadequate pressure to the valve/system. Hope this helps. Alan.
Alan.
it may be the micro switch. Make sure the plunger on the end is still on, you can test the boiler by pressing in both switches manually. Ray
but my problem is more basic than that. I get the problem on CH as well as DHW, so its not the microswitches as these are only for DHW. i have just put a brand new valve in. I first put it in, gots lots of knocking when i powered up and a small leak. hence I drained down again, fixed the leak, and now the dammed thing wont fire up. My reset button had popped up, so i pressed this down again, but it still doesnt fire up. It cant be an airlock/bleed problem as these only become apparent after you start the boiler up. DOH!
Messages 141 to 160 of 182. < Previous 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Next >
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Edited by ray 4 April 2008, 10:14 AM
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