Worcester 240 - no hot water
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Be sure all the air is out the system including all rads, pump, heat exchanger and then mechanically you are sound. If the boiler starts up with HW water at some point, then atleast you know it is not the functionality of the bolier, it is the control of when the boiler is in demand. This is a little trickier (Electrics) and could be circuit board related, etc. My advice would be to make the system sound first and be sure it is, then move on to the more complicated/expensive bits. Alan
Alan.
Thanks guys. Parts ordered. Hopefully I'll return with news of success rather than more questions!
i will bleed everything again...and start again...I read about the air pressure switch can stop it firing up so that may be my next port of call...problem is bolier is 2 miles away..and I have no tinternet there... i am about to go and try everything again!
Any ideas how quick BES are to deliver?
Alan.
Alan.
The only other thing I had to replace was the telescopic joint between the diverter valve and the expansion tank. Cost about a tenner. I actually am starting to sound like I know waht I am talking about! Haven't got a clue. Just shows how good this forum is. Thanks again. Jon
Always replace this O Ring when you change the diverter valve or Diaphragm or you will get leaks after refilling, saves you having to do it twice for the sake of a quid. Ray
I resorted to getting an expert in. Sods law was the failure was unrelated to my efforts with the diverter valve. I had a stuck solenoid in the gas valve. So I would never have been able to trouibleshoot down to that. To be fair the repair guy was very thorough and didnt belittle my DIY efforts. Only charged me 75 quid...so all in all not too bad. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
My shower is already a thermostatic mixer shower not an electric shower.
If other hot taps operate the diverter valve and the shower doesnt, it sounds like flow rate is the problem. does the plunger in the valve move at all when the shower is on? I would first look at the mixer...as you say the thermostat in the valve may not be letting any water through at all from the hot supply. good luck.
Brilliant thread, loads of good info:-) Just wanted to double check that the leak I have on my boiler is due to either a faulty diaphram or diverter valve... The leak is coming from the back of the diverter valve - in between the front part of the valve and the back part of the valve (the bits that are held together with an allen key bolt on the top and the bottom) there is a 2-3 mm gap, on the underside of this gap there is a ~2mm hole which is where the leak is coming from. Will replacing the diaphram fix this leak, or will the whole valve need replacing? Should there be an o-ring in between the front and back sections of the divertor valve (where the 2-3 mm gap is)? The spindle is moving in and out fine and is activating the microswitch ok, so I guess the diaphram/valve isn't completely knackered. The leak is only a few drops and happens every time the hot water tap is turned on, not with central heating. Cheers in advance for any help :-) Dave.
The diaphragm repair was easy, you shouldn't have any worries about tackling it. Hopefully replacing the whole valve won't be too much more of a problem. Cheers, Dave.
I know it will leak again so is there a way of fixing the telescopic joint as I've read that O rings can be used, if it can't be fixed what is the part I will need and where can I get one from? Also is the diaphram in the whole diverter valve sold by bes the same as just the diaphram as I may replace the whole valve if it is likely to last longer.
I originally had a problem of only getting hot water when I turned the flow rate down low on the taps. After reading some of this thread replacing the diaphragm (the old one was perished) cured that problem. I have now noticed that when I turn on the hot taps or run the shower I get hot water BUT all of the radiators get hot too (central heating is switched off of course). My guess is this is being caused by a faulty diverter valve? Is it worth trying to dismantle it and clean and re-grease any moving parts? If not, what sort of price is a new diverter valve? It also looks fairly tricky to remove - I already have leaking in/out valves that dont leak if you turn them to a particular position (just backed off from fully open). I'm loath to end up with more leaks I also have a problem of the system pressure falling, but only when the central heating is switched on. Perhaps this is related to the previous problem I described. Any help/thoughts gratefully received!
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Edited by ray 18 April 2008, 1:57 PM
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