Worcester 240 - no hot water
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Did anyone find a solution to this problem my worcester is doing the same
1) switch the electricity supply off. 2) Remove the outer white cover - it lifts up to remove 3) above the Green plastic cover that contains the electrics you will find a cros head screw from the panel to the main body of the boiler there is one on each side, remove these and the panel swings down and away. 4) to the left you will see a round valve housing about 2" (50mm) in what appears to be brass on its end is a black switch Housing. 5 Look closly at the point where the black housing meets the valve and you will see a spring clip, using a small screwdriver carefully prise this upwards and as it comes away the swich mechanism will come off the valve head. 6) On the valve head you will see a small pin in the centre, get an assistant to turn on the hot water and this pin may or may not move When it works correctly it moves out quite a way, if the part is faulty it only moves a little. 7) Now carefully prise open the cover from the switch mechanism, it is only very thin plastic so do NOT force it or you will break it and have to renew this as well. You will then see 2 separte micro switch contacts, these are black plastic, with your finger press these in and you will hear a click, now ensuring that you have not pulled any of the cables off and that the pilot light is still lit switch the electricity supply to the boiler back on, get your assistant to turn on the hot water now using your finger press both of the contacts (you are not touching electricity) at the same time, you should now hear the boiler fire up, get your assistant to check that hot water is now flowing (may take a while). You have now proved that the fault is in the diverter valve, you need to get the part (about £14 on e-bay) and fit it or have some one fit it for you. If you wish to fit it yourself you will need to switch the power off and drain the central heating system (you need to connect a garden hose to the drain cock and run the black water outside into a drain) you need to drain the heat exchanger and then again carefully remove the screws at the front of the diverter valve replace the diaphram valve being careful not to damage any other gaskets and refit the front. Now ensuring that the drain cock is closed use the filler loop to refill your system. You will need to bleed the air out of all your radiators. If you are not confident then call a plumber in but find out how much he wants to charge and tell him what you want him to do. You do not want to pay for new heat exchangers etc when all it needs is a £14 part. Best of luck Pete
Your problem could be similar to our discussion thread for the Worchester 240. (which I fixed by changing the Diaphram inside the Diverter vale) Find out from the internet (or if you have the original instruction booklet) a telephone number for technical advice. Ring them and ask where the Diverter Valve / Diaphram are situated. Ask for the part number also, so that you can look up for the parts on the internet. Either replace it yourself or get a plumber to do it. Shouldn't charge you for more than 1 hour labour (took me 20 mins and I'm not a plumber)
that had similar problems to what you are describing. The turbine had packed up and so the boiler was not getting any signals to light and there fore heat the water. Because of the design of the boiler the central heating worked ok but could slightly warm the water supply to the hot taps pipe. A new turbine installed in a couple of minutes solved the problem.
Tip: Take out a United Utiliies Home care policy ( some times free for 3 month) or an instant claim cover by paying a very small fee, then book a call for one of their engineers to come and fix. Excellent service. regards Slade247
Really got me stumped this one. Hot water is fine all the time. The diverter valve pops out fully and operates the 2 microswitches no problem when i turn on the hot tap. The problem is with the heating. When the heating is switched on, the boilers microswitch on the sequence board clicks, then the microswitch on the main driver board clicks off and on in a frenzy, occasionally the boiler fires up for about 30 seconds then shuts off and goes back to the clicking frenzy. Occasionally (about 30% of the time) I can get the heating to stay on for a good while by running the hot water for a while then putting the heating on full before turning off the hot tap. If I achieve this I can get the house heated for a while but then it will revert back to this clicking frenzy and no heating. I was thinking it was maybe the heating sensor or one of the PCB's or the CH temp control potentiometer at fault but I am not a plumber or a spark so really could do with some help on this one. Pleeeese. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
The clicking of the main driver, temp sensor fluctuating, etc means its atleast working, possible cause could be a blockage of the pipes around the boiler. Try opening the vent valve (Red knob which you press and turn, keeping hold of it until water comes out from the overflow vent outside) which will discharge the sludge in the system. If this works, then it is only a temporary solution but enough to buy you abit of time. Tip: Look up the British Gas 'Cover 200, 300, etc' available and sign up to it (works out approx £12 to £15 per month), and then claim after the qualifying period (about 2 to 4 weeks). Hope this helps
Seems to be working a lot better now. Looks like it probably needs a powerflush then to put it right.
Boiler has reverted back to the clicking itself on and off again. Still have no idea now what the problem could be. Any Help ????
Ring up either British Gas or United Utilities and sign-on to their maintenance package. I think Unities Utilities do an instant call out for a very little extra premium. They are very good to sort any plumbing problems. Regards Sunil
cheers
Mine was cured by replacing the "turbine" which detects water flow and switches on the gas for hot water heating. I have now joined worcs/bosch maitenance for my boiler, it costs me £12 per month and I get a service each year.
Do you need to bleed radiators when i change the diverter valve or can i just replace it?
is it the programmer or what? please im freezing!
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Edited by ray 7 December 2006, 1:56 PM
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