Worcester 240 - no hot water
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but i have hot water and no heating?! potterton cylinder system
IF THIS IS NOT HAPPENING THEN IT IS MORE THAN LIKELY THAT THE DIAPHRAM IS UNSERVICABLE. YES YOU CAN GET SERVICE KITS FOR THESE AND THEY ARE QUITE EASY TO CHANGE. NORMALLY REQUIRE YOU TO UNDO ONE WATER CONECTION AND EIGHT SCREWS THIS WILL ESPOSE THE GUBBINS .. DIAPHRAM SPRING AND PLUNGER. IF THE PLUMGER COMES OUT AND DOES NOT MAKE THE SWITCH WHEN ON WATER ONLY THEN THE BOILER WILL NOT START. http://www.ezypart.co.uk/new_parts sell new valves if you cant get service kits. ifyou require more help please post again pete
ANY 1 KNOW HOW TO CHANGE? R ANY DIFFERENT PLS LET ME KNOW. TA!
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I traced the problem of the constant clicking of the boiler on and off. It turned out that the joint on the pipe leading to the pressure relief valve was slightly loose causing a very tiny leak, (only evident when i operated the relief valve manually). After tightening the joint all my problems were sorted. No more clicking. I can only presume the tiny amount of pressure loss was causing the problem. I aint no plumber. Thats mine sorted, now my Girlfriend has a problem with an ACE High from Halstead. Every couple of days the boiler shuts off and will only work again after a few goes on the reset dial. Pain in the a**e as its in the loft. Any suggestions ?
I had a similar problem. The clicking was only happening with the C/Heating though. The clicking is actually the microswitch on the circuit board. At first I thought it was a faulty circuit board, there are 2 of them. I initially solved the problem on a temperary basis by operating the pressure release valve a few times to flush out debris in the pipes near the boiler. Had top top up the water again after doing so. This got the heating working properly for a week or so, until the problem came back again. I finally traced that the pipe leading to the pressure release valve had a very slightly loose compression connection which was ever so slightly leaking. I had to really look for this. It seemed that the slight loss of pressure or something was causing the problem as when i tightened it up it solved the problem completely. been 6 weeks or so working fine now. Would be interested to know if yours is a similar cause. Ray
Cliff
Trying to find an Enginner to come and fix it was almost as difficult as obtaining the parts and hey, I live Worcester!- a mere broken boilers throw from the Worcester Bosch factory!. Anyway, I followed the advice in an earlier thread and I've solved the problem short term by using the spring properties of 2 clothes pegs - yes clothes pegs to push against the 2 microswitches normally operated by the pin from the diverter diaphragm. ok, I have to switch the mains power off to the boiler between needing to use the hot water supply, as it fires all the time if the two switches are pressed, but at least the family can now have a bath/shower!. Thought this might be a useful tip for a SHORT TERM quick fix, whilst I await an engineer with the relevant parts.
have fixed the problem, probably temporarily. I had put in a new diaphragm (which sounds like your problem), this isn't a bad job, and can be fixed with the diverter valve in situ (The diaghram is available on ebay for £15-20). Unfortunately, my diverter valve had stuck and had to remove it. It also happened on a Bank holiday w/end, so removed it soaked it for an hour or so in cleaner and then freed up the inside as best I could. put it back together and the diaghram had a slight tear, so had to super glue it!! This is still working fine. But the other fault I have now is that the machine keeps resetting itself, probably 2/3 times a week. Press the reset button and off we go again. Have had the boiler for 11 years, I think it is time for a new one. To be honest , this is the first time that I have had any probs in all that time, so I don't think I can complain. Hope this helps.
you need to visit a plumbers and ask 4 a diaphram. think mine cost me about £15. whilst you are there you nd to also ask 4 the fibre washers to fit the joints you will nd to undo. they should no which 1s these r. :turn off your boiler from the mains :turn off your main water supply :turn off your flow & return(these are two of the four pipes under your boiler. looking at your boiler they shud be the two from the left) :drop the circuit housing :drain the white tank in your boiler :drain your water taps :remove clip on your micro switch carefully and pull away switch :only nd to undo the pipe directly running from the white tank to the valve in a straight line from right to left(undo on the left side) :undo the 8 screws on the diverter valve and slowly pull away cover :remove old diaphram(remember how it goes) clean all parts and put back to how it was :reconnect the micro switch :turn on water & check the pipe for drips :switch on from mains :b sure to turn on the flow & return :run the taps & again check 4 drips. :if all is ok you shud finally put bak the circuit housing. this really isnt as hard as it seems should save you around £130 good luck!! TAZ
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