Worcester 240 - no hot water
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Anyway, after my dad and I scratcing our heads all day, checking what seemed like everything on the boiler, we have come to the conclusion that it could well be the actual mechanical valve that is sticking. Tried gentle persuasion (big Fk'ing hammer, ha, ha, only kidding, a little tap here and there really), but still didn't start working. The reason we think its this is because when we circum vent the swithcing and ensure that the boiler fires up when we turn the taps on, is that you can feel the heating pipe being hot, but the out going hot water luke warm to cold so I think its stuck or diverting only very little. If I turn the heating on and turn all the rads off, it seems to puch the water via the hot water system that way. All in all I think the valve nees to come off and clean it up. What do you think and do you think its worth changing the diaphram for the new one I bought in case it was that anyway? Thanks all, Alan.
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/All-gas-Spares Regards Alan
I also have a problem with my hot water on the 240. My problem is the pilotlight, it won't stay lit. I've replaced the thermocouple about 4 times over the last two weeks. I can get the pilot light to stay on if I heat the thermocouple with a blowlamp. The problem is that when I use the hot water upstairs, the pilot light goes out and I have to go through the same rigmarole to get it lit again. I'd really appreciate any help or thoughts any of you might have. Cheers, Neil
Some thermocouples have a boiler overheat switch or other device in series with the thermocouple, these devices can cause the symptoms you describe. finally please remember that to legally work on gas appliances you need to be CORGI registered.
Thanks for the reply, as you probably surmised, the thermocouples are universal thermocouples, do you think I'd be better off with a genuine worcester part? I'm also aware that I should be corgi registered, but I've changed loads of thermocouples under supervision back when I was an apprentice, but your point's well taken, it may be time to call in the professionals in any case. Cheers, neil
A possible clue that the the universal thermocouple may be the problem is that you can get it to hold the gas valve when you use a blowlamp. The blow lamp would be hotter than the pilot flame and therefore generate more voltage. Best of luck!
posted an email to Pete about the fact that I've tried all the checks for the diverter valve and its seems it might not be the diaphram. Any help on next steps would be appreciated as my only thing I can think of is to remove the whole valve and clean up, replace the diaphram that I've bought anyway and try again. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
The forum was slow this morning so I could read all the threads. However it seems you have tried all the obvious and not so obvious things to narrow down the cause of the fault. The divertor valve and associated diapgram are mechanical devices and as such all part must move freely. The microswitch applies the appropriate electrical signal. You may like to try the following suggestion but I offer no guarantees and you do so at your own risk. You can check the M/switch by ensuring that all central heating demand is off. Then remove the switch and operate it manually ( being careful with live terminals) whilst someone turns on a hot tap. If the boiler fires up then the electrics are OK, if you do not get hot water then either the diaphram is knackered or the actual divertor valve is jammed. I recently stripped down a divertor valve on an ALPHA boiler and that was full of carbon like material and jammed up. A good clean sorted it out. A better alternative is to fit a new assembly. A company called BES (BES.co.uk) sell a replacement divertor valve assembly for about £25.00 + VAT and delivery. These are NOT genuine Worcester parts but I have one I bought for a job and it looks good to me. I hope this helps. I will be away for a few days and so will not be able to answer any further queries.
1] hot water rubbish. told by friend my pressure was too good, and i had to keep tap on lightly to give the water chance to heat as it passed through the system. this did work, to an extent. 2] water cut off from flooding of nearest water plant last month 3] leaking hot water tap in bathroom sink (the snake like pipe at back) 4] fixed (3) with a new pipe, the washer had gone and pipe was manky 5] now the boiler wont fire up (demand) unless tap is on full 6] after 30 seconds the demand light goes out, even though tap still running and we don't achieve more than lukewarm water for 60 secs or so. I've tried turning my water stopcock to various degrees to see if flow was something to do with it, but I've got between 1 and 2 bar pressure on the gauge. which of these posts apply to me? the demand light DOES come on, but not for long.
Any ideas???? Alan.
Thanks Alan.
Thanks Alan.
Ordinarily when you have carried out the procedure to renew the divertor diaphram there should be no need to bleed the rads because they should remain full of water. Based on the symptoms you describe the air is trapped in the boiler heat exchanger. There should be an automatic air bleed device somewhere near the top of the boiler, I cannot remember exactly where on this boiler but the manual should refer to it. You need to ensure that the cap on the automatic air bleed is loose, it looks like a tyre valve cap. You could try opening the pressure relief valve whilst adding more water via the filling loop to try and flush the air out of the boiler.
I just ordered the diaphragm and washer pack for £16.42 incl vat and delivery. From here http://www.baxispareparts.com I didnt have the part number for the diaphragm but they phoned me 2 minutes after i filled in the online form asking if they had the part i required, i then placed the order over the phone. Great service. I also found the complete diverter valve for sale here: http://www.ezypart.co.uk/parts/part_id__35 seems to be the best price around as plumb centre etc charge around £80 plus vat
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