Worcester 240 - no hot water
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I have similar problem to no hot water on Worcester 240 as is my boiler. The heating is fine when the boiler stat is set to low one - , if the stat is turned up the boiler cuts out and the cut out switch has to be reset, the same happens with hot the water, luke warm water then as you reduce pressure by turning tap the cut out switch activates again. The boiler works fine on low , when hot tap is turned on boiler fires up as normal but the water is only just luke warm. Please has any body got any ideas out there I could do with a bit of help. I have fitted a lot of bathrooms etc. also some Central Heating system boilers in the past but don't know a lot about Combi Boilers. I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks gs-titan
I have recently drained my radiators and replaced one. The pump is fine. radiators up stairs are fine and hot. the ones down stairs have a slow flow of cold water not hot. can anyone help.
You will most probably have air in the pipe runs to ground floor rads, you will need to draw off a bit of water from the feed & return pipe, this is where pipe enters the valve at the bottom of cold rads, to do this place a towel or small bowl to catch water, usually this is about a couple of pints or so. I take it you have already bled rads from the top in the normal way. Good luck about ten mins per rad. gs
!!!!!
Al
How do you do that then. cheers mark.
If your heating is on and you keep it on, if your rads upstairs are hot when you undue the pipe a little before valve (if there is air inside it will come out in intermittent splashes) on the downstairs rads the water from the boiler takes the shortest way out so it must have got hot when you released the pipe. If it got hot and you then did the pipe on the other end of rad and that got hot water through if it did not continue to circulate after, it could be the pump or a further problem. I don't know if your heating was working before correctly if it was and you replaced the rad and pipes as it was before it is most likely air in pipes. gs
Yes it will help it has to be air in the system, so closing areas/rads off that are free from air will help. gs
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I have a worcester 240 combi. I have no central heating. The hot water is working fine. The central heating doesnt want to come on. When i put a heating demand on the pump fires up as normal but the boiler doesnt ignite. I can sometimes get it to come on if i wedge the left microswitch on the diverter valve, leave it wedged on for about 5 mins (any longer would obviously overheat the boiler and go to a cutout stage) When i remove the wedge the boiler seems to stay on and heating is ok for a while. I have a new diverter valve on order but i am not sure if this will cure the problem concerning no central heating. When the hot taps are open there is hot water a plenty and the plunger on the diverter valve operates as normal. Any ideas before i strip out and replace the diverter valve ?
Anyway, changed the diaphragm, bled the heat exchanger and rads, but no hot water when the heating is off, which I thought was very strange. But, this means I am now really confused, can anyone help??? Alan.
It is most likely the spring mechanism at the flow end of the Diverter valve at the 1" outlet end, it will be either stuck or it will again most likely be broke. It is only a 1/2 hour job if the valve is off to fit the replacement bits the problem will be getting the bits to replace, I have been quoted £28 for the washers etc. a complete rip off. The complete diverter Valves brand new including micro switch is about £23.25 + Vat & Del approx £33.50, from a place called B.E.S plumbing supplies (Google it for net sales) or a firm on ebay sell them free del for approx £34.50. Just put in Diverter Valves The boiler will have to be drain off to fit this valve, they is normally to shut off valves on the flow & return pipes, not a difficult job if you are competent at general plumbing. A gas boiler fitter will charge you up to £130 for a valve plus fitting normally about £250 total, it is not much harder to do than the Diaphragm. I wish you good luck, I had the very same problem with my 240 with every body saying it has to be the diaphragm wish really is not true but it has to be the Diverter Valve that is faulty. If you do decide to purchase a new valve ask for a set of fibre washer for the valve plus a couple of O-rings for the sliding fitting to heat exchanger. I have found out the hard way if the diaphragms gone the Diverter Valve is best replaced then you know it can't possibly be the Diverter Valve you will save time and money that way. Graham
This normally happens on a daily basis. As soon as the reset is depressed, all is well. Occasionally this will happen a couple of times running the same bath. Has anyone any ideas what could be faulty and if it will be reasonably easy to fix. I have changed the diaphragm a couple of times without any problems. Thanks for any help. Cliff
Alan.
You can usually eliminate the diaphragm by checking to see if it makes the micro-switch when the tap is turned on . Once the switch is made the boiler should go through its ignition secuence ie. fan run,gas valve open then igiition .Try to see at which point it locks out ... Good luck Dan
On the exchanger , where is the bleed valve? Thanks Again, Cliff
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Edited by ray 4 November 2007, 11:05 AM
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