Re-enamelling a cast iron bath
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Our new cast roll tops with polished chrome feet start at £299. To see what I have on offer and what we have sold, look on ebay. Our user name is JONTHEGOLDFISH. Call me for more details on 0771 996 7103. A new roll top can cost the same as refurbing your existing bath from us!! I will mail pics and prices to you. Mail me on [Log in to view email]
If you look closely Preloved have a section for advertising. So, please can any future additions to this thread be kept to discussing and only a tiny bit of advertising. Thanks.
Regards Jon A J Surface Solutions, Bath resurfacing, Goole
From anywhere. I think someone suggested that we use "marine coatings " or something . If only it were that easy , I would save a fortune on import costs , and shipping from the states . People have used all sorts of "paint " on their baths , i can guarantee that it will not last more than 12 - 18 months in the best cases . I have been thinking the same as you Gary , there are guidelines about advertising in this FORUM . If you want to advertise on preloved ....there is a facility for it . Unfortunately you have to ...PAY FOR IT !!!
One of the 'safest' (I use the term loosely) products they sell is called ISOFREE. It is used alongside a catalyst and a reducer. You also need a bonding liquid to ensure correct adhesion. They work out of a specialist bathroom retailer called THE WATER MONOPOLY, London. - look up the numbers on Yell - I don't have the number to hand - ask for Simon. You will need spray (and respiratory) equipment and spraying experience is a definite advantage - but a good, long lasting finish is possible. I think the minimum they sell is 1ltr of each product - ask to buy a sample amount of each, that will be enough to do a bath or two. I have not intentionally plugged this business, just advising - not advertising ;-)
I thought I might just stay out of this cat fight but alas it is not possible. May I suggest to all involved that these good fellows submit a sample of their "special material that all comes from US of A" to a neutral party, to apply to test plates using each ones suggested application process. Then we submit them to an independent testing laboratory. We each pay our share of the costs and lets sort out once and for all who's who when it comes to material performance. In the mean time I suggest you pre-empt the test results and use a Tubby Kit. Cheers
A : An idiot B : A person that doesn't care how long its going to last. My experience is that these are the single most important factors. I recently did a job where the previous coating had to be removed. Not that there was much of it left on the bath anyway ,
I just realized that when I talked about polyurethane paint being the choice for cars but plastic lining your lungs I was actually talking about two-pack paint. Oops sorry for mixing my terms. Has anyone ever tried this stuff? It dries to a glass smooth surface without polishing. In fact once it dries it is actually too tough to polish and even sanding is not easy! One serious problem though is that it's very nasty and I imagine that health and safety would not let you use it mobile in people's homes, maybe that's why you lot don't go near it. However, if anyone has the bath equivalent to a spray shop I'd be interested to know if you've tried this stuff. Anyway I'm getting off topic. TubbyUK, you recomended I go for one of your kits rather than get the professional stuff. I'm not trying to antagonise but I will have the spray equipment, the acid etch and the primer from my car work. All I need is the topcoat, which I think will actually be cheaper than your kit. Phil
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My point in this whole useless debate is, that the Tubby material is as good as the products generally bought from paint manufacturers and supplied to the "Professional bath resurfacing" firms. The term "Professional" being bandied around only applies to a person making money out of it. From our research carried out over many years I am not aware of any other bath resurfacing organisation who develop and manufacture their own products specifically for the purpose. Not material made for cars or boats or anything else and used for baths. We have tried your idea of car/boat/whatever over the years, they dont take the hammering that a bath coating has to. At the end of the day, you get what you pay for. Have a Professional job done, get a guarantee etc. etc. and pay your money great! Choose to do it yourself if you are on a budget and can't afford the service great! But for goodness sake will everyone stop inferring that Tubby is somehow not equal to the coatings used by the "Professionals" Put up or shut up. Cheers
I think I read somewhere that they did do tests in the states to determine the longevity of the coatings they use over there. The only thing to come out of it was that the coatings they used were all very similar BUT the main thing that affected the life of the coatings was the preparation and the bonding agent used. They concluded that if a bath isnt cleaned properly and coating is applied it will not last anywhere near as long as a coating applied to a thoroughly cleaned and prepped surface. This test was carried out with bonding agents and not acid etching. The bonding agent used also had an effect on the outcome but not as much as the preparation. As for testing out Tubby and coatings that are applied through other means, I may just purchase a kit myself and do a half and half re-surface of a bath to see what the finish looks like against the coatings I use. If I was to do this Tubby how long would I need to leave your kit before I could put masking tape on it to enable me to spray the other half of the bath?? Obviously this little test will only be for myself to see what the finishes are like. I know this isnt quite what you had in mind Tubby but is that putting up enough for you. Cheers, Gary.
I only mentioned two-pack car paint because it is significantly tougher than the polyurethane enamel car paints as well as givng a high gloss finishing without polishing. I thought maybe the reason you don't use it is that it would not be possible to spray with it in situ. But then again I obviously don't know how bath polyurethane enamel differs from car polyurethane enamel. Again I'm not necessarilly suggesting that two-pack is better than what you use, just that it's an interesting comparison and wondered if anyone has looked into it. I assume that's what we're all following this thread for and why it's so huge - because we're all interested. Cheers again for the info TubbyUK and Andy.
You are most welcome to do that. I can even supply you with a spraying solvent and you can spray some and roll some to see the difference. The masking tape can be put on after 24hrs. Send me your address over our website and I will organise it. Cheers
There are a number of ways to prepare the surface.1. Mechanical (sanding) and degreasing.2. Acid etching/sanding and 3. Adhesion promoters, these are usually presented in a Propyl Alcohol base. The last two methods are not suitable for diy use because they require training. Their only advantage against method ! is that they are very fast and efficient. Method 1 is time consuming but if carried out correctly achieves identical results. The development of Tubby came out of our Professional material to satisfy the DIY market. This gives the diy advocate a better chance of achieving good results with a highly proven material. Cheers
Follow this link to a company who are dedicated to PRODUCING as well as supplying high quality resurfacing products. They are a very genuine and will gladly offer professional advice (and I mean professional) on safety of and correct application of resurfacing materials. There are so called 'professionals' out there - but most are importers / suppliers. These guys produce and provide direct from the lab. http://www.hawklabs.com/index.html No doubt someone will dish this company - but rarely will you find a more informative supplier
Which are known to be carcinogenic. Also as they are in Illinois , it rules out D.I.Y ers as the import costs , if they would send a small quantity , would be prohibitive.
Just viewed the last few posts and would like to highlight a few misconceptions: 1. Epoxy does not contain isocyanates. Polyurethanes and acrylics usually do, and they ones that don't are usually pretty useless, so you have to use a bonding agent to get the stuff to stick. Unfortunately epoxy yellows and chalks with the passing years. 2. To anyone considering playing about with these preparation chemicals on a diy basis, the best advice is don't!! - there are simply too many risks..
Spraying anything containing solvents without an organic filter is asking for cancer - Xylene and Trichloroethane are commonly used in these processes and are highly carcinogenic. Having researched the risks I restrict my work to a few days per week..even using respirators etc this is essentially an unpleasant job! I now teach maths part time and do baths part time, so I reckon I can justify the slogan 'maths and baths'...in fact I'm shamelessly plugging the maths rather than baths bit cos....I offer an online maths tutoring service up to A level if any of you folks have kids who could do with some extra help coming up to exams..:-)
previously mentioned producer who confirmed that their epoxy coating does contain isocyanates . Perhaps he's wrong ?
Perhaps he was thinking about acrylic or polyurethane? If I am wrong about this then I'll be very worried, cos I tend to favour epoxy for its superior adhesion qualities, but I wouldnt touch anything with iso's with the proverbial barge pole.! I know a few guys marketing ' specially developed bath coating produced after extensive testing over several years in their laboratories....' ..yeah right! - you go round to their 'lab' and you find a guy decanting a 5 gallon drum of car paint into half litre cans in the garage at his house!! Take all this nonsense about coatings specifically develped for baths with the pinch of salt it deserves. There are three common processes - epoxy, urethane, and acrylic, and they have all been developed as general two packs by the Duponts and ICI's of this world, and are marketed under a several different brand names. These companies are constantly striving to reduce VOC's and harmful chemicals. Unfortunately the solvent-free stuff just isnt as good in terms of finish and adhesion at this point...but there is light at the end of the tunnel. I know of one chemical company which is evaluating a two pack which is based on an entirely new 'safer' chemistry . No doubt it will have some drawbacks too, but hopefully it will be a reasonable compromise in terms of safety and performance. I'll keep you guys posted..and NO..I'm not trying to sell anything! Cheers
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