Re-enamelling a cast iron bath
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newlook are a bath and cosmetic repair company running for over 25 years. unfortunatley the original director of newlook (my father in law) passed away very early only on reflection to the paints and chemicals in my opinion used in the industry. There are no 100% safe material to my knowledge on the market until we go water based which will initially price us out the market. sorry abouut the bad news but high profits equal costly health issues. I am still currentley active in this industry but with a young familly and wonderfull wife , i am reducing work loads accordingly. Happy to sub out if you are interested. With regards to acid etching (page 1-9) it was this method that gave the industry such a bad name - for those that understand "you cant stick selotape to talc on powder" take care lads and allways mask your face ! regards glen.
I can put you in touch with bath resurfacers throughout the UK. Simon Bailey
Dave, Preston
Now every one just chill and go buy yourselves a shower instead . Just kidding, I actually came across this forum in searching for advice on the best method to go for. I have a cast iron small narrow rectangular bath which I don't think has been previously re enamelled. I want to employ a professional and have narrowed it down to two companies within the GLASGOW area Both offer a 5 yr guarantee, but one cleans, then acid etches and uses a cold -cure two pack polythurethane enamel which takes 24hrs before you can use the bath. The latter comapny inpected the bath for rust spots and there are some pin hole ones on the base but he said it was one of the worst cases he'd seen. I couldn't believe this having seen the rusty old baths shown in this forum. Why would he say this? He says he'll have to fill them first which I'm sure is the case, but why make such comments? The only other thing that he asked for was for the taps, waste and overflow to be loosened or removed before painting, which I thought sounded like he would do a nice job, so I'm thoroughly confused. The second one belongs to the 'guild of craftsmen' which all sounds very impressive, but is there any difference to the other technique mentioned? They both charge £250 +VAT and have been in business for 20 - 25yrs. Decisions....decisions can you help?
Can anyone help me to decide?
This is all turning into an exercise in semantics. First the vitreous enamel website mentioned is very interesting. 1. the guarantee is for life that the enamel wont peel off. This is easy because vitreous enamel cannot peel in any way shape or form. 2. There can apparently be problems because of the possibility of pinholes and blemished areas because of the age and state of the cast iron. I was always under the impression that this vitreous procedure would produce a brand new bath. Not merely similar to the original. 3. In Spray on resurfacing, the application of heat is merely a matter of the need for speed. Heat it and it cures faster and can therefore be used earlier. or leave it to cure in ambient conditions and use the bath after 24 hrs. Neither of these two methods can give you any idea of which is the better of the two. A customer can only decide based on what they establish about the reputation of the respective resurfacer, then go with their gut feeling. Each method suits a different market and should be allowed to operate without all the fighting. Hello Andy, I'm glad to see you are still also watching.
I'm not planning to do the DIY route so I'm part of only one market, the kind that wants to employ someone else. If both methods are as good as one another then great but if not can anyone highlight the difference. I'm not looking for a sales pitch or to instigate any fighting ( wasn't aware at this point that any was going on). Maybe there is a neutral expert out there? Oh one last thing does acid etching pose any health risks to the householder after the professional enamellers have left, fumes etc?
I was joking about the fighting. Acid etching does not pose a problem because it ought to be suitably neutralized. It does an excellent preparation job and is once again very fast and efficient, although not for a DIY'er as its use needs suitable training. The resurfacer should also have a decent professional extractor fan system with ducting. You will obviously have a residual smell which will last a few hours but it will disappear quickly and does no harm. You should expect a decent guarantee which is on a proper headed paper with everything clearly spelt out. (get a copy sent by your two firms in question) This will tell you something. Cheers Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
I know just the man for the job:-). Please give me a contact number or phone on 0779 320521 Cheers
Vitreous enamelling is unsurpassed - there is NO substitute. Re-coating 'in situ' (should never to be referred to as re-enamelling) is the most common restoration technique for cast, pressed steel (and occasionally acrylic) bath tubs. Durability is almost ALWAYS down to prepping (cleaning & etching the surface prior to top coats). Chemical adhesions can be used (as used by ourselves) but ONLY only in conjunction with chemical etching or grinding of the original surface. A physical key for bonding will usually out perform a chemical bonding and should result in a longer lasting surface. The actual finished look is usually down to the skill and patience of the resurfacer. Dont expect your new surface to last a lifetime if your taps / shower is dripping, you have hard water, water puddles in your bath (e.g. around the plug hole) or if you use bath mats and dont remove them after use. £200 inc VAT should get you a good job. I have trained in the states and in the UK and realised that no-one has the perfect system and I am always looking to improve mine.
If by any chance you are still following this forum a year later, did the shine last afer polishing? I'm thinking of having my bath polished rather than resurfaced as I have a 1929 cast iron bath which is in generally good nick with slight staining/small area of roughness only. Has anyone else experience of successful professional polishing of a white cash iron bath? No one seems to recommend DIY pilishing so presumably it's relatively specialised kit and technique? Seems a pity to coat if a good finish can be obtained by simply polishing. I live in Sutton, Surrey. Dave N
Also it will not leave a bright white finish. The whiteness at the top edge of the bath is as white as it will be where it has been polished. It will leave you with a the original surface - so no lifting / peeling and this process is our personal favoured restoration technique. The surface does becomes clean - but not a 'glass' shine - and may need re-polishing a couple of years later as the surface will remain porous.
THANK YOU, TOPDOG
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