Snake Owners . what do you have ? ? ?
Messages 61 to 80 of 103.
Can you tel me what strength UV bulb a snake needs. I have a 5.0's for my dragons, and a 2.0 spare that i got given, Its that time that i have to replace my bulbs, and ive got my snake coming next weekend. Thanks Louise. xx ___________________ Lou
Louise ___________________ Lou
As you all prob know by now, ive got my first snake due to come home this weekend, i know he eats large mice only. But can some one tell me why? I have beardies, two are 2yrs and one the other is a daughter of them 5weeks, anyways. their diet is 90% veggies as adults, So my question is how can they survive on only small rodents?! And water from his dish. And i know snakes are completly different from Lizards they don't have bones just muscle but mice just seem bland, Can anybody tel me why, or what if anything else i can add to his diet. Thanks Louisexxxx
Just making sure im doin right by him. Louise
I've done a lot of research into snakes, and own 11 myself, and have only really come across one mention of UV lighting being needed, and this was for whipsnakes and racers, as they behave similarly to certain types of lizard. (This was mentioned in the book 'Keeping and Breeding Snakes' by Chris Mattison). I have come across for no mention for the need of UV lighting for corn snakes or any other ratsnakes, pythons, boas, etc.
I'm pretty new to snake and reptile keeping, but me and my partner are hooked! We currently have three Corn Snakes, a motley, an amel (until his previous owner decided she wanted him back - bah!) a 'normal' corn, a long tailed skink (rescued) and a gorgeous Beardie Dragon sub adult called Bolan. OH! and a gorgeous Ghost Corn yearling called Neo coming home soon. I need a bigger home! I adore these guys, they eat better than me! Not sure I'd like fuzzy soup though.... Below is Dickie having a meal 
I finally got my kingsnake, I think he is settling in, He has only just started shredding. When i handle him, i go to get him out, lay my hand on him, and its like he's shocking me, is that poss or is it because my hands are dry and his moving through my hands? I know to keep my hands damp, but its difficult as they dry. once he's out, he just happily sits still on my lap, When i got him home yesterday, i got him out for the first time, and he was really upset, i put it down to me being nervous etc, and that he's shredding, but he was really ajatited so i put him back, then he went straight into his bowl to have a p*^ Hope im doin everything right. thanks Louise Oh and how long approx for a large mice to defrost, he eats on a fri, but im goin to change it slightly so he dnt go for me as its usually clock work. One side of his viv is handling the other is feeding is that all correct. Thanks again Louise ___________________ Lou Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Congrats on getting your new arrival. It's most likely he/she'll be a little grumpy and stressed with being moved into a new environment, plus if he/she is shedding, it will make it a little grumpier! I'm sure after a few days peace he/she will happily settle down and get used to you, as you will with him/her. My first snake was jumpy when handled, and still is a little even after twelve months with me, but handle as gently and often as possible and I'm sure he/she will settle down. I'd suggest a few days just watching him, to see how he's doing, must say though, I'm jealous! I'm seriously thinking about getting a Grey Banded Kingsnake next... Anyone out there got one? what are they like as pets?
he shedded last nite, i was very impressed, came off whole. He's a bit jumpy when i get him out but once he is, then he jst sits still on my lap quite happily. I can wait till friday as i get to feed him. he he. he's my first snake so all very new to me thanks Louisexx
Have you Named your King yet?
Sorry for late reply. A mate cam round and we got chatting he he. I have beardies, Suki and Zenzer 2yrs who are the parents of my 6week old juvinile that i kept back, and im keeping one for my mum, as she is having one too. i got some more being laid soon. I can't wait till friday (feeding day) hehe. No i haven't named him just yet, I really like Ramsey, but its not sticking. He shedded last nite, 5ft the skin measured, i was told he was 3.5 -4. slightly under lol. I keep getting him out to get used to me, sometimes, he just sits still on my lap, other times, he wnt sit still and gets really upset with himself, so i know he's not in the mood. i think thats just like you said trying to settle, I also have 1 dog, & 3 cats lol. The only problem i do have, is the front of his viv is constantly soaked on the inside of the glass, he does use his water bowl alot, is that caus he's soaking his bark, and its trying to dry. Thanks xxx ___________________ Lou
Hopefully all going well I will be homing Neo this weekend, who is a Yearling Ghost Corn, and is bloody stunning, I might even put a deposit on a Grey Banded King Snake I fell for while on my usual wish list shopping trip to my local Pet Shop, run by the coolest Guys. Really helpful, friendly and just all round great (and they make a good cuppa too!) I know they tend go go into water to aid shedding, or if they're too warm, otherwise to be honest I'm not too sure. If he's in and out of his water bowl, it's most likely that'll be why the front of the viv is wet, how damp is it getting? Is your water bowl too close to a heat source for example? Obvious I know, but sometimes so easily overlooked, I did! lol. Having said that I'm sure one of the other guys here will be happy to assist. Other thing to do if you haven't got one, is check out the site for a King snake book, maybe even ebay? I bought one about the corns, and one about the dragons, both have been a massive help, although opinions do vary book to book!
He's now in a 4ft, so he has plently of room. Here he has a 2.0 uv, a 40w heat bulb and a heat mat that is covered by several layers of paper and sellotaped down so he don't burn. Do you think i should take the bulb out. both the lights are on timers, which he shares with my adult dragons below. the uv is on for 12 hrs, and the heat light comes on half hour, then goes off for a hour. and the heat mat is on const I think i should take his heat bulb out Thank for ad on book, i'll go and get one as you never stop learning. Thanksxx ___________________ Lou
sounds like it's pretty well set up, and I'm sure he'll be happier in his bigger home now. I had a little look around and found some basic info on keeping the Kingsnake (as each species has it's own requirements) I apologise if you have all this info already, but thought it might be useful. I have decided I will be opting for a Grey Banded for my next snake! With Kingsnakes being not only a wide ranging genus, but coming in a wide variety of sizes and haibtats, it's hard to make a one size fits all caresheet. So, with this variety in mind, I'll try to include some of the various methods used in keeping them happy and healthy. Housings: There are many types of enclosures that can be used in keeping a Kingsnake. Most commonly used ones are aquariums, rubbermaid tubs, and custom enclosures. When deciding on an enclosure for your snake there are some "typical" rules of thumb that should be used. First, the base demensions(length +width) of the enclosure should be at least the length of an adult snake. For Kingsnakes this can range from 24" to over 6 ft. So, for some of the smaller species like the Scarlet Kingsnake a 10 gallon enclosure (20"x10") can provide plenty of room. Where for some of the larger getula and triangulum species, a 50- 75 gallon enclosure would be best. However, since the average size of most Kingsnakes is around 42"-48", a 20 gallon or larger is the most commonly used size. For snakes, there is no such thing as too big, as a matter of fact, the bigger the better!! When using a sweater box or Rubbermaid type tub for your snake, most use at least a 32 qt. tub, again adjusting for the adult size of the species and based on the base demensions of the tubs. One important thing to remember when using these types of tubs is drilling small air holes in the side for airation. These holes should be small enough that the snake itself can't squeeze through. The second point in deciding on enclosure type is how secure it is. Snakes are extremely adept escape artists! They seem to be able to find any weak area in order to squeeze out. So, when buying your enclosure be sure to include a secure fitting top. For aquariums, most use screen tops with clamps to hold them on the tank. For Rubbermaid types, most come with locking tops , however it should be understood that the larger the tub, the weaker the tops tend to hold them in. This is because most only lock on the sides with the middle being flexible, allowing the snake to push up in the middle and squeeze out. This is also true of the screen lids on larger aquarium enclosures. So, in these cases more clamps should be used. Temperature/Thermal Gradient: Being snakes are ectothermic (cold blooded) and rely on their surroundings for body temperatures, it's required to give a temperature range or thermal gradient to allow for proper temperature regulation of the snake. An OPTIMUM gradient would be from about 55-95 degrees F within the enclosure. This would allow your snake any and every temperature it may need for any needs it may have at any time. But, since such a wide range is hard to attain in captivity, most advise to give a general range of about 75-85 F. This is because most studies have found that this is the range they seem to be most active. This range allows for proper digestion of their prey, and SEEMS to be low enough to allow for "down time". With this said, it should be remembered that by adding to this general range allows for better temperature regulation for your snake. For instance, a snake that has access to a range of 70-90 F has more tempertures to choose from to thermal regulate, and can better control it's body temperatures than one with a narrower 75-85 degree range. Wider gradients are much easier to attain in larger enclosures, and should be yet another consideration when pcking out your enclosure. Setting up Gradients: To set up your enclosure's temperature range, should will first need two thermometers, one for each end of the enclosure. You can use either the stick on types used for fish aquariums, or digital themometers with extendable probes (typically much more accurate). These should be set up near the bottom of the enclosure on either side to read cool side and hot side temps. You will then need a heat source to heat the hot side of the enclosure. You can use use either heat lamps placed on top of the screen lid, or a heat mat, heat pad or heat tape, which is place under one side of the enclosure to heat one side. Adjusting the hot side temperatures using a heat lamp is a matter of switching out to either higher or lower wattage bulbs till you attain a desired temperature. Heat mats, heat pads, and heat tape should be hooked up or plugged into a rheostat, dimmer, or thermostat to adjust them to the desired temperature. Without one of these limiting devices it is possible to overheat the enclosure (most snakes can only survive a short time in temperatures above 100 F) and also possibly cause a fire from the heat pad itself overheating. Heat rocks should never be used because they only allow for a limited heat source and typically a snake will coil around them and burn themselves on them. As stated above, a wider gradient is the prefered wat of determining your enclosure temperatures. If however you can only seem to attain a limited range as with a smaller enclosure, it's possible to fine tune your temperatures to your snakes preferences. Since Kingsnakes come from a wide range and habitats, some seem to prefer higher temperatures, while others will prefer cooler temperatures. Fine tuning your temperatures to your particular snake is a matter of observation. Set up your enclosure to the "general settings" stated above, and watch how your snake uses them. If it seems your snake is constantly curled up on the cool end of the enclosure (outside it's hide) it's telling you the enclosure is too hot and the temperatures should be lowered a bit. If however, your snake always seems to be constantly on the hot side, you should raise your temperatures a bit. You can play with these ranges till your snake seems to use the entire enclosure at various times. Remember though, that snakes do tend to be more secretive animals and usually stay in their hides (discussed later) most of the time. Substrate: Many types of substrate can be used.The most important thing to remember when picking yours is that you should NEVER use pine or cedar shavings, because they are toxic to reptiles. I've read that you shouldn't use sand either, because it can become ingested and cause intestinal problems. I've heard of people using Aspen shavings, reptile bark, newspaper, paper towels, aquarium stones, and astro turf made to fit the tank you have.I personally use the astroturf because I think it gives the tank a cleaner appearance, plus its fairly easy to clean. Ornaments:The things a snake most needs in it's tank is a hide box or two, and a water dish. A hide box is like it's den in the wild.You can buy a hide box in most pet stores, or I've heard of people using old flower pots with a hole cut into it for the snake to get in and out. I've even heard of people using old shoe boxes or tissue boxes for theirs. Just as long as your snake has a place it can go to feel secure in it's environment.One thing to remember is the hide box is the snakes "get away", so it's not advisable to take your snake out of it as this may cause the snake undue stress.The water dish is pretty basic, it should be large enough for your snake to soak in. It doesn't have to be big enough that it can submerge its whole body in at a time, just enough so it can get wet if it wants to. Another good idea is to put a climbing branch in for your snake. Kingsnakes love to climb (at least mine do). Besides that you can put just about any object in your tank as long as its non-toxic or non-poisonous to your snake. Feeding: Kingsnakes do very well on a diet of just mice. Baby and juvenile snakes should be fed pinkies(newborn mice). As your snake grows you should give it larger prey items.Petstores usually sell them in stages from pinkies to fuzzies to hoppers to small adults and large adults.You should feed your snake every 7-10 days. Most herpers suggest to feed frozen mice to eliminate the possibility of mites and disease and possible harm to your snake from a biting and scratching mouse. If you choose to feed frozen mice it is VERY important to make sure the mouse is properly dethawed all the way through or it may cause severe digestive problems for your snake.The best way to dethaw a mouse is to put it in a small pan or dish with hot water till it feels soft and warm all the way through.(usually 15 minutes to an hour depending on the size of the mouse) If you choose to feed your snake live prey it's better to "pre-kill" or stun the mouse so it won't harm your snake.This can be done in several ways. I've heard of putting the mouse in a small bag and slamming it to a hard surface. Another thing I've heard of ,but never tried, is to grab the mouse by the tail and behind the head and pull in opposite directions (this is supposed to break its spine instantly, thus killing it).I've never tried it so I can't positively say if it works or not. Another thing you can do is to put it in a plastic sandwich bag and suffocate it. It's best to twist as much air out of the bag to shortern the time it takes. You can also make a simple CO2 chamber, which is considered the most humane way of euthanizing a mouse. Or you can just put it in with your snake and risk having the mouse bite or scratch your snake. One thing to remember when feeding a snake is that you should feed it outside it's tank or enclosuer.If you don't, you risk having the snake think it's feeding time whenever you open it's tank, and run the risk of the snake ingesting it's substrate with it's meal.The last thing to remember is not to touch the mouse with your hands as this will leave it's scent on you and your snake might think your a mouse and bite. Handling: Most Kingsnakes are fairly timid snakes when being handled. Juveniles tend to be a bit more to handle than the adults. Many juveniles will rattle their tails, musk and strike out to defend itself from what it sees as a large predator. Although they act tough, just picking them up in the middle of the body is the easiest and less stressful way to pick them up. They seldom bite, and if they do, it doesn't hurt since they only have fine teeth. Once they reach adulthood, they typically settle down to the point they will come to you when the tank is opened.(albeit more in a search for a way out than recognition of you) When you are holding your snake support it's body with one hand and control it's head with the other. Don't pinch or hold it behind it's head. This can injure it, and make handling more stressfull on both of you. Another thing to remember is to not hold your snake after you feed it for at least two days because it might stress the snake out and make it regurgitate it's food. Hybernating: It's not nescesary to hybernate your snake unless you plan to breed it.To hybernate your snake you should stop feeding your snake for about 2 weeks to make sure it's system is clear, then slowly drop its tank temperature down to about 55-60 degrees over a couple of days so they can adjust to the change. You should also turn any light off earlier to make appear as a shorter winter day. Usually about 2-3 months is plenty of time for it to hybernate. After it has hybernated just do the opposite and slowly warm the tank over a few days. Some snakes tend to slow down naturally without any temperature changes. They will also sometimes refuse to eat during this time. It's not unusual for a kingsnake to go without feeding for 2 months or more, especially during cooler months. As I said before, it's not nescesary to hybernate your snake, as a matter of fact, I've heard of people loosing they're snakes from trying.So unless your planning to breed your snake I wouldn't advise it. Hope that is a help Lou, and again, apologies if I'm passing on info you already know. He Maybe happier with the Bulb out, but again, I'm not an experienced kingsnake keeper, so maybe one of the guys here will help you. I do wonder though, the Heat bulb, is that also linked to a thermomiter in the Dragons Home? Just wondering, because if it is, it may be pushing the Snakes Viv temp too high. If you haven't already got them, get a thermomiter to set either side of the viv and keep an eye on the temps. If all else fails, email me via contact me, and I'll pass you details to my friends at the petshop, I'm sure they'd be able to help with books and advice! Have a good one! Oh, and here's a pic of Ozzy enjoying his dinner, I thought it was a great shot! Andy 
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