Sigma 41
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I saw your message on the keel problem. The keel manufacturer is Irons Brothers. You will get all info if you email them - the stud sizes and the material used. Good luck. Ron Winn [Log in to view email]
Regards Patrick
Thank you very much for your reply. I'll take contact with the keel manufacurer and see if they can help me on. You ever want to go to Norway sailing give med a signal I'll help you on with whatever you need. Regards Patrick
Was the company Irons Bros. the original manufacturer of the Sigma 41 keel or is it just a good supplier that can help out today? Is the keel generally a weak spot on the Sigma, I am always a bit fuzzy when it comes to Iron keels, in my opinion it should always be lead. What´s your opinion/experience rgds Mike
I found the old keel - there are threaded holes in the top plate to screw the keel bolts into. The keel is made from cast iron metal and has a lead shoe (bottom part). David.
The other reason to have lead at the bottom is that when you hit something, it's easy to fix with a ball-peen hammer and some new bottom paint. We have not had any trouble with our keel. although our boatyard did tighten the bolts about a year ago. Ted Keech
We had the keel off last summer after grounding damage - boat was built 1984 and when we took the bolts out they were as good as new - (on a previous Sigma 33 we had a lot of rust on the nuts - when we drew the bolts they were fine - only surface rust on the nuts). Henry Irons were the original supplier and hold all the patterns. As a tip the two forward bolts which are set into the top flange under the maststep are the ones likely to cause a problem on grounding - we had a crack at the forward edge where the fin meets the flange - all the other bolts - except those at the very aft end are tapped straight into the cast iron fin - if you do ever take the keel off and refit I advise not taking the forward bolts up to the same tension as the rest - we 'nipped' them up so that in the event of a grounding there is a little 'give' to match the hull flex. Surveyor reckoned that might have saved the cracking. I know also of another S41 in the Hamble that had a new keel from Irons last winter - fitted perfectly. Roger
Mine was removed in 1995 and refitted with a lead keel centerboard, a redesign by a local Tampa Bay Naval architect, O.H. Rodgers. Draft is now 5/9.5 ft. Bear in mind the west coast of Florida and the Bahamas are very shallow. The boat lists to starboard and I originally thought there was a flaw with the keel but later learned all S41 list to starboard. I learned this a few years ago when a delightful Brit pulled in Nassau Yacht Harbor where I was, single handing his S41. Is he part of this forum? Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to fit a guard rail below the cove stripe to protect the hull at the tumble home? Francois.
I don not yet know who was the original producer of the keel, but is seems it is that company. When it comes to the questions of iron keel,s I have had both lead and iron and I must say that I prefer a lead keel that is baked into GRP. Secondly it is ok wiht lead, but then ther eoften will be an iron top and lead bottom. That works ok to since the lead is a better shockabsorber and the iron is easier to fasten solidly to the hull. Anyhow the problem with corrosion remains. Water in the bilge as it has been on thios boat obviously for a long time is a bad thing. Not sealing the bolts on the inside is a criminal act if you ask me. That is the situation on this boat - if that is regular with Sigma's I do not knkow. Regards Patrick
The keel is lead iron composite, weighing in at some 8,100 lbs or 3,682 kgs. The ratio I am unsure of but will verify next time she is out of the water. Water in the bilge is an issue we are trying to fix at the moment, some of it may be sweat and simply the large surface area means there is a significant amount, however, in my case it is the mast and a leaky bolt on the the water pump which I cannot get to. The previous owner secured the bilge area around the mast and put in cross flooding pipes which seemed to keep most of the rainwater from the mast at bayin one area. My boat is 20 this year and having had the keel bolts off for MCA coding, we found they were as good as new. Would rather have access to the bolts than to have chipped the GRP away and resealed. If people are really fussed about protecting the bolts then suggest an epoxy paint which with the correct undercoats be a good solution. However, there is a lot to be said for the allowing them to be exposed to keep an eye on them with the old mark one eyeball. Regards Shawn. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Does anyone know how many Sigmas were built in total and how many of them was masthead rigged. As I understand, most Sigmas were frational rigs. Does anyone here have experience from a masthead Sigma? I´m very interested to hear your opinion. Regards Mike
AlphaIV is masthead rigged, very straightforward to sail with two, no messing about with running backstays. For cruising it suits use, if you are racing you can trim the sails better with a fractional rig If you require more info e-mail me Regards Wayne
Hopefully Jon
We Have some Polo shirts with the Sigma insignia (White on a red background circle with '41' in bottom lh corner) as per original sail plans - I have got a copy of a price list with the basic outline of boat and sailplan which I should be able to scan and send you - and I could ask the guys who did our polos if they could email you the logo we did. email me at : [Log in to view email] if you want more info Roger
Has anyone replaced the acrylic in the forward hatch or know how to do it? Ours is a Lewmar Super Hatch, size 70 (about 2' square), presumably original equipment. (I have recently figured out how to install a new seal on this hatch and learned a couple of tricks, if anyone needs to know.) Ted Keech
regards Jon
There are three things that I figured out in replacing the forward hatch seal. 1. The seal comes from Lewmar as an continuous square with a seam where the ends have been glued together. I found that I had to break this seam by pulling it apart. Otherwise there was too much tension on the seal for me to fit the fourth corner, no matter where that was positioned. I was pleasantly surprised at how close the ends came to each other once it was installed, despite having broken the joint at the seam, and I just filled that tiny space with silicone goop. 2. I positioned the ends so that the seam falls at the aft side of the hatch when it is closed, in the area of the finger grip on the hatch cover. This gave a little more room to work at the critical points of beginning and ending and put the weakest area in the least exposed position. 3. The third point may be obvious to everybody except me, but because I have zero spatial relations skills and no mechanical training, I really struggled with this. The seal mounts over a sort of "T" track that runs around the edge of the hatch cover. It was obvious even to me that the lip on the inner edge of the seal had to be forced under the innner edge of the "T", but it was not obvious to me that the outer or back edge of the seal had to fit over the top of the T and catch around the outer side of the top of the "T". Once I saw that, I proceeded about 6" or a foot at a time by setting the outer or back edge first and then forcing the inner edge under. It turns out that the outer or back edge is not hard to set. Simply push straight down on the center of the seal, and the back edge just slides over the back edge of the T. The inner edge, however, is a . . . . Lubricating it with water helped. I didn't try soap, but that might have made it easier as well. I did not remove the dogs, but that would have made it easier, for the corners are difficult anyway, and the two with the dogs are very hard to get. It was a miserable job, but the result seems to be a completely waterproof seal. In ordering the seal and considering replacing the whole hatch, I learned a couple of things. It is a size 70 Lewmar Super Hatch, which is no longer made. The current Lewmar models have a different corner radius and are not drop-in replacements. Lewmar still sells the seals, however, and there is a company on the east coast of the U.S. that will replace the acrylic and the seal and overhaul the whole cover for about half the purchase price of a new hatch, the one that wouldn't fit correctly without some fiberglass work. You can Google "Lewmar hatch repair" to find it. Ted
Does anyone have polar speed diagrams to share? Ted Keech
Starting to have a little wear appear again so plan, over the winter, to remove some of the shims directly in front of the wheel so that the tapered gear can go further in. David Tucker INTRIGUE Kinsaler, Ireland
Thanks. I found maintenance instructions for the Whitlock Cobra system (I think I Googled "Whitlock Cobra Maintenance"), and they showed how to remove the shims. I took out one, and about 90% of the problem is solved. What a great design where you REMOVE a shim. Imagine if we had to insert a new shim -- trying to find the right shim for a boat that lives 6,000 miles away from where it was made 22 years ago. Ted
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