Sigma 41
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As a matter of intrest what colour/wood are the engine box and steps. Jim
Ted Keech
Jim
Ted Keech
How are you getting on with the deck (jim and david) ? I decided to refix and recaulk rather than lift and or replace. I've put a load of new fixings in and pulled all the old ones, injecting all the holes with epoxy. I'm not yet sure about sanding the deck flat, I reckon there may not be enough stock to hold the plugs if I sand too hard. So might have to just light sand. I got a good place for sikaflex caulk if you are interested; half normal retail! best Simon
Thanks. The hinges on the main hatch over the saloon are the same as the hinges on the forward hatch, although the forward hatch, being almost 20% larger, has three hinges. Fortunately, only two of mine are broken. If you have two extras, I would like to buy them from you. I only need the straps that bolt onto the acrylic, but would happily take the whole hinge assemblies, for driving out the hinge pins is not the easiest job in the world, or even the whole hatch cover. Email me at [Log in to view email] Ted Keech
Beware, the holes are different even if the hatch is the same size. We replaced ours last year, discovered original hatches were screwed and siliconed.we've filled old holes with epoxy filler (countersink the holes first as you get a better finish). On the deck side, we sanded no problem after having gone through the deck and fully re-caulked using sika, remember to prime the teak first. The cockpit was trashed and we replaced that ourselves, wasn't expensive, looks fantastic really pleased with it. We used a company called KJ Howells ( http://www.kjhowells.com ) to make the new panels, talk to David and mention Black Adder in Fowey, they know what they're talking about. Got the panels back and sikaflexed them into place, if you go through this give me a call as there is a technique to getting a great finish. They laid the teak directly into the helm seat, to create a panel would have been a nightmare. Lead in time for teak panels was about 3 weeks but depends on thier order books. Also, recommend the Sika Teak Oil as the International stuff looked awful and lasted about 2 weeks! Cheers now! Shawn
37 47' 03.29" N 122 15' 53.17" W Note that the degree symbol is missing. It is not necessary. If you are having trouble figuring out what that really means, we are aboout ten miles east of San Francisco and a little south Just keep zooming in until your eyes cross. Ted Keech
We have decided(next season)to lift,set a planer to the minimum thickness, run the planks through and refit. Those that do not dress we will replace. Unfortunately there is not a lot of meat left and dressing down may mean,as you say, there is not enough wood to plug. I would be interested in supplier of caulk. Best of luck and keep us informed of progress. Jim
Are you sure you have "planks"? Most of my teak appears to be prefabricated modules of teak -- several planks wide -- bonded to some kind of backing. Certainly the individual boards are not screwed down in a pattern that is consistent with traditional teak planking. The side decks and foredeck may be diferent from the cockpit, for you cannot see the edges of the deck, while you can see the edge of the teak on the cockpit seats and just outside the companionway. You might be able to see the edges of the deck teak on the anchor locker hatch, but I am not on the boat to look for myself now. Ted Keech Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Now you got me thinking.I will reply after Sunday. Jim
We replaced the Bukh on Candida last year - a fairly sytraightforward job - although we had to slightly modify the bearers - we also kept the engine forward in the box, and as it is shorter than the Bukh we put on a new shaft (old one was past its best!) Others have replaced with a Beta engine I believe - if you look back to early pages on the discussion 2-4 I think you will some chat. PS the Yanmar is quieter and about 120 kos lighter than the Bukh Roger
We replaced our Bukh with a Yanmar 3JH3 in early 2002. The only serious problem with the 3JH3 is that you have to be a contortionist to change the water pump impeller, but it appears that problem may have been fixed on the current model, which is 3JH4, I think. We love the Yanmar. Its quiet, fuel-efficient, smoke-free, and except for the impeller, not too hard to perform routine maintenance on. And you can get parts everywhere. With the light engine, we are a little down by the bow, but that seems to be OK. In light air I think it helps, especially off the wind, and in heavy air we just move the crew back. We have sailed Shawn and Victorias BLACK ADDER, which has a new Beta in it, and it was great. Quite, smoke free. Its a little more powerful that the Yanmar, but we have not missed the extra power. Repowering with a new Bukh is by far the cheapest way to go, but as Roger says, they are noisy and heavy. On the other hand, they are almost bulletproof if you change the zinc frequently. (Not completely bulletproof; we sucked eel grass into the water intake and fried the engine because we did not have an overheating alarm.) Be sure you experience changing the oil on the Bukh if you are thinking about a new Bukh. It seemed that an eyedropper would have been the best way to get the new oil in. Perhaps someone who lived with a Bukh longer than we did knows how to get the oil in. Also, as best we can tell, there is no way to get the head off the Bukh without removing the engine from the boat, and that requires cutting away the companionway ladder. The Sigmas are great boats. Powerful, strong, fast, a delight and a challenge to sail, built like a brick outhouse without being too heavy, and you eventually get tired of people asking you if its a Swan, at least here in the U.S. We now have a rule that after three such inquiries in one day, we starting saying, Yes. It has excellent sea berths in the middle and cruising/port berths in the ends. Ours has a Southern California extra tall rig, which isnt the best idea on San Francisco Bay, and it has penalty spinnaker pole, but nevertheless, we race it occasionally, and it brings home its share of silver with a PHRF of 87. Good luck. Ted Keech
Cockpit is laid teak planks. Deck not sure, but looking at the arrangement of dowels/plugs would suggest individual planking. However, instead of a full caulking gap (which is harder to fit) they rebated one edge to approximately 3-4 mm (hence looking like it is laid on ply). I think this is why there is such a problem with the deck as this method never allowed the caulking to go completely through, allowing areas of the deck to contain water and not dry. If it's up would suggest relay with new, the labour is the most expensive part of the deck! Again really recommend KJ Howells, Cobbs Quay, Poole for Teak supply. Also, sections of the cokpit we had just peeled off once unscrewed as the caulking/bonding seems to have not been prepared properley from new. Now corrected. Roger, your thoughts? Cheers now. Shawn
I have been talking to people "in the trade" and as Ted says these decks are supplied and fitted as modules.I.E. cockpit seats and steps etc.. the deck is supplied in several modules.Seperate planks ara fitted to a semi rigid membrane which is then bonded to the under deck with screws and dowels. Individual planks can be lifted and refitted but the underside of the plank has two rebates to make a male/female join to the membrane making planks too thin to do much with. It looks like a renewall job. Jim
Want to thank everyone for their input. I recently went back and did another "kick the tire" on the Sigma 41 I looked at last fall. The boat is hauled now and is on the hard. Unbeknown to me when I last looked at it is that it has a bulb keel fitted in place of the original (fitted poorly I think with water weeping through a crack). The broker then informed me that the original keel had been damaged and replaced with the weighted bulb. After measuring the draft it appears that the only difference is an inch shorter - nothing significant as far as draft is concerned but maybe as far as performance. Still mulling over this one. Carl
Maybe the iron bulb has been fitted to the lead section on normal keel thus the bulb to compensate for weight. Is the split running fore and aft about 14"from foot of keel Jim
The deck may well be in Modules but I can assure you that Black Adder has a laid, plank by plank, teak deck in the cockpit If you look at the seat pattern you will see the planks are not perfect and custom fitted, i.e. the pattern differs, dependant on who was fitting it! Shocking really. The plug my boat came out of was certainly not symmetrical and as a result when relaying do not rely mirror imaging the seate and then allowing a slot for the locker. Still could be a later boat and better prepped. Cheers now Shawn
Sigma 41 keels all have a lead shoe for the bottom 18" or so - so that shoiuldn't be a problem - maybe just a matter of tightening up the boltd joining the two sections. Another area of weakness is at the front where the fin meets the plate securing it to the hull - on grounding the hull will flex and you may find cracks in the plate at that point - we had this and had the keel off. Frankly its not too serious , and on refitting we just 'nipped' the front two bolts which are fitted through the mast step and tapped into the flange only. The remaining bolts that are tapped into the fin are more than capable of holding the keel. So dont worry too much - but its a useful bargaining ploy! Roger
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