Sigma 41
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Oh the joy of crossing Biscay! If you can make it that would be great, certainly worth a beer or two. Varnished the boat this week, she looks good. Also, changed the cutlass bearing, hard work, had to take the shaft out and saw the bearing into sections. Cheers now! Shawn.
I bought "Big Doris" formerly "Sunbeat" and now renamed "Dorothea" 4 or 5 years ago and she is now in Trinidad. I am also in contact with Julian Berney who keeps his Sigma 41 "Houdalinqua II" in Burnham on Crouch and does a lot of RORC racing on the South and East coasts (of England). He did an ARC a while ago I can't offer much new on the current debates save to say that both of us had to replace our decks in their entirety as a result of water ingress rotting the plywood bases on which the teak strips are glued. Also my experience is that the fridge compressor supplied as standard with the boat (?) is totally ineffective in any temperatures to be found south of the English Channel. Essential mod - replacing the ordinary steel keel bolts with stainless steel Useful mod for those with Bukt engines is to install an in line electric fuel pump to keep the motor spinning if the mechanical pump gives up (in addition to steam cleaning the tank and replacing all the fuel lines for a boat of this age). Please excuse this if old news or statements of the obvious, Adrian +447774938712
I have a variety of original drawings including "General Construction and Stiffening" which shows hull construction and dimensions pretty comprehensively and also steering gear, keel and prop shaft drawings etc if anyone needs a sight of them. (Haven't got electronic versions nor the capability to prepare them at present but no doubt a way could be found if necessary.) The previous owner converted to a cutter rig by installing a new inner forestay stay to take a permanent jib ahead of the baby stay and fitting a roller furling genny on the forestay (the boat is masthead) which is a superb rig in a number of ways particulaly for shorthanding (which I could detail if anyone is interested). As a result I have a number of smaller jibs sitting around at home doing nothing from when the boat was conventionally raced. I would be happy to consign them to a good home if there is anyone out there with a masthead boat who has not installed a furling genoa and could use them. Picking up a point made earlier by Ted Keech (12 March), it is a good idea to make up a specially dedicated oil filler to refill the oil into the Bukh 36 engine - just a funnel to which is attached some flexible hose with a couple of solid bends in it to get the oil round the corners and into the top of the engine. Saves a lot of bad language. Has anyone added a separate mast track for a trysail to their boat ? Adrian +44 (0)7774938712
After we get the varnish off, we wash the wood it with a plastic scratcher/sponge, but do not sand it, for we are trying to minimize sanding of the veneer of the plywood. We then apply Watco Oil the natural version per directions. The oil brings out the beautiful grain of the sapele and the yellow tints in the wood. We follow with a very light sanding with 400-grit wet-dry sand paper. Then we apply two thin coats of Interlux satin finish polyurethane varnish, since I hope never to take it off again in this lifetime. (Around the companionway, we will use spar varnish, because that is going to have to be done frequently.) The result is gorgeous. The differences are very subtle, so much so that the divisions between whats been done and whats undone are hardly noticeable (which is good, because we are proceeding a few square feet at a time). But if you look closely, the oiled sapele has much more character than the old varnish, and the overall impression is livelier. Ted Keech FAYAWAY San Francisco
Its antifoul time. The antifoul is in a pretty nasty state and over winter? we have stripped off most of the old stuff. in the places we have accomplished a complete? strip we have come across a fairly thick and hard brown coloured material on top of which there is a very hard white and then blue then antifoul. Is this an epoxy coating?. Has the hull been coated to the waterline(where it ends)as a standard procedure. Jim
Sounds odd - the gelcoat - when you reach it - should be white - if there are patches of brown etc then its probably filler of some sort - epoxy coatings are normally clear in my experience and almost undetectable as they are pretty thin. Sorry I cant be of more help! Roger
Black Adder had a brown Epoxy coat (think this is international paints) on her, the original coat was poorly applied and wasn't keyed into the gelcoat in any way, ours came off when scraped hard, if you have patches that have come off then it may be the best thing is to bite the bullet and take off and reapply which we did. We also found some minor imperfections in the gelcoat which we filled as we went along. Yes it should be thin too, maybe it was overzelaously applied! Like to hear the result. When you bought the boat did they mention an epoxy coat? My surveyor did pick Black Adders up even though the sellors did not mention it. We shot blasted black adder, sound s harsh but did about 2 weeks work in 3 hours, need to trust the guys shotlblasting enormously though, had no fingernails afterwards. Result was good though. Shawn Black Adder
Enquiries at the time (winter 97/spring 98) seemed to suggest that it was an optional extra prior to the boat being first launched. After removal, we tested the hull for moisture content and found it to absolutely dry. We then replaced the removed coating with AwlGrip - I think it was 7 coats !! - and then used a bright antifoul with the last coat as required by the curing process. By having a bright colour antifoul at the 'bottom' and now using a different colour antifoul, we can see keep antifoull build up to the minimum while being able to see when it is getting thin. David. Intrigue.
The extra is what I thought. The parts which are showing appear to be sound and a uniform 1mm covered with a hard blue/white coat. The hull tested dry.The point being that next year we are going to remove all of the remaining antifoul(were goin sailing now,enough for 1 year)and wondered if this was the base to go to (if sound). Maintenance wise the boat was in a very poor condition and that reflected the price paid so no information was available, but thankfully they are so well built we have been pleasantly surprised by what has been revealed. All of the teak in the main saloon and forward cabin has been completely stripped and refinished.A major job! Next year new decks. Jim
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According to the line drawings kindly sent by Simon the designer shows the draught as 6'8". Measuring here on the hard clearly shows the draught nearer 7'8". Any comments. Jim
David.
I measured mine for IRC and got 2.3 metres - when ypou add the weight of all the gear 7'6" to 7'8" seems to be about right - we have our echo sounder set based on 2.3 and its bang on (literally!) Roger
I was pointed towards this forum recently by Roger of Candida - Thanks, Roger! - and I've found the site very useful - at least I now know everyone's had the same problem with the fridge and the teak deck! Karen will be delighted that the fridge is now going to be replaced.... Our boat is "Nightlife" and we've owned her for five years. 2004 and 2005 were spent sailing to the West coast of Scotland (for the Classic Malts Cruise - great fun), then around the islands, through the 'Great Glen' to Inverness, up to the Orkneys and back down the East coast last November (!) to Haslar (Portsmouth). We're hull number 22, masthead rigged and confirmed draught of 2.2m. Like almost everyone else, we've replaced the teak weather decks and the cockpit teak is 'work in progress'. Ted, we have also (just) replaced our mainsail with a fully-battened sail on Frederiksen cars and it's now a delight to handle (even though we also noticed the weight of the battens on the way up). We haven't succumbed to lazy jacks yet, but when we do, this will make main handling a dream. We'll probably bring the reefing back to the cockpit at the same time. Shawn, if you still own sigma41.com, can host it, and you'd like me to set up a basic web site and forum I'll do it (no promises as to timeframe). This group must make up about 25% of the Sigma 41 owners, so it has to be worthwhile. All the best, Tom Sperrey nightlife (at) sperrey.net
Yes still have it and can host, if you email me direct on [Log in to view email] we can go from there. Can also host email as well, with webmail access. Roger is a star and I will see him within the next couple of weeks. Really want to push having a Sigma 41 class for Regatta week, are you interested? It is amazing that they all need the same TLC. Of note the fridge is working great on Black Adder, now the water pump is playing up......it never stops. We have lazyjacks now and they're great for cruising, although we will be moving the top of the jacks to about a foot away from the mast through an eyebolt in the top spreader which makes the whole hoist and drop easier. We have also single point reefing which I am still not sure is working as efficiently as I would have liked, a modification on the sail cover will possibly solve the problem. Cheers now. Shawn.
Does anyone know what the correct arrangement at the mast coachroof collar is? The boat came with wedges in but they were all pretty loose and obviously not doing much. A naval architect said he didn't think it was designed to have wedges at all. My current rigger is not sure but thinks the gap around the mast is larger than most he sees. It doesn't seem like a good idea to have the movement in the mast pressing on the coach roof? I know that in an ideal world I should have replaced my deck but having already spent the kids dinner money I couldn't justify the outlay. Anyway I finally finished recaulking and refixing and I have to say the result is very pleasing. Only time will tell if it was worth the effort and if I'll ever walk upright again! Simon
Very interesting. I certainly agree that I don't want the mast floating in there and banging around, which I know mine does when the wedges fall out. I bought a mix of some large mast wedges and some small ones over the web from a rigging company in New England, I think. They work pretty well. But you are right, the collar is huge. I am wondering if my mast collar is in the center opf the boat. The mast is centered in the collar, but I am beginning to realize that my view of the jib telltales is different from different sides of the boat. I also get significantly different upwind speeds on my B&G (+/- 0.5 knot) on one tack compared to the other, although I suspect that might be caused by a a failure to install the knotmeter in perfect alignment.
When I bought Candida the previous owner had bought and installed some very very heavy duty rubber 'wedges' for the collar - they are not wedge shaped but can be pushed/hammered/ forced in to ensure there is no movement at the deck - they seem to work well, and are seemingly better than hard wood wedges or the like as they do allow a smidgin of movement. By the way don't be tempted to use a compound such as 'Spartite' which a lot of modern boats do - it is brilliant - but we have a ridge in our collar as well as the bottlescrews holding the mast to the deck - Spartite would mean that you would lift the deck before you got the mast out. (This is according to Spencer Rigging in Cowes who do know a thing or two!) Ted - reference your speed differential - same thing here and certainly our impeller is slightly to starboard of the centreline - Starboard is always the faster tack!!! - basically the reason they are there is that the heads wall is virtually on the centreline. Cheers all Roger
I've been watching your item on Mast Wedges. I bought Graphix when she was three years old and threfore must assume that the Mast Chocks were the originals. They are still the same ones in Graphix today. They are definately Not Wedges. They are only used fore and aft and comprise of two Rubber Chocks in front and the same behind. The Chocks are about 6 inches x 4 inches. Two of them are about one inch thick and two about half an inch thick. They are used to equally position the mast in the slot. The only way to fit them is to fit the aft ones then tie two genoa sheets to the base of the mast to exert enough load to push the forward ones in. If anyone requires the correct thickness I am prepared to take down the the headlining and attempt a measurement. I cannot get information about the hardness of the rubber. The mast will not sit in the centreline of the hole and it has never caused any problem in the eighteen years and 70000 miles sailed in Graphix. If any one needs information which may be physically on Graphix please call me soon. She was sold yesterday and will be gone in two weeks. I have also much more information related to Sigma 41s and the work I carried out over the years, Regards, Ron Winn
I expect youv'e fixed the water pump by now, but if not, it's no doubt sucking in a little air Adrian
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