Sigma 41
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Hi, Sam and welcome. We purchased a new mainsail for 'Nightlife' at the beginning of this year from Owen Sails in Oban. We had found them prompt and efficient having used them for sail repairs and upholstery refurbishment over the past couple of years while we were up there. We went for a fully-battened main on Frerickson cars, (which added, as I recall, about £600 to the cost), and also for a much larger roach. We spent just over £3,000. We're very pleased wth the result, having raced offshore a couple of times this year with it. I'm sure Diana Jamieson in Oban will be pleased to give you a quote if you let her know what you'relooking for. Their web site and contact details are at http://www.owensails.com/os/ Hope this helps, Tom
Ted Keech
Any ideas or comments?
thanks for the info on Nightlife's main. Owen sails sound refeshingly reliable. I will get in contact. Have you found it easy to hoist, drop and reef compared to a standard part battened main (assuming you had one before)? Sam
We have a fully battened main on Candida - with Frederickson Cars, lazyjacks and permamnent sail cover on the boom wghich is open at the top. We have the main loose footed so the sailcover is in the track. It is so easy when shorthanded that I cant understand why everyone doesn't have the system - we literally just let the halyard go and it drops straight into the cover and then zip it up! For hoisting it is almost as easy - a bit heavier 'cos of the extra weight of the battens etc - but it doesn't flog and smash around at all. Good luck Roger
Re; Hoist, drop and reef procedures. Hoisting is a breeze - almost no friction (tho' we do notice the weight of the battens). The sail is still pretty shiny and new(!) so slides around a bit when we flake it, but the battens make it easier to flake, for sure. Having read that the VO70 use lazyjacks, I'm steeling myself to go as far as that, but can't quite bring myself (yet) to fit a stackpack (Sorry, Roger!). The shape is excellent, though, and I'm expecting the full battens to keep it that way a long time. Hope that helps. Let me know if you'd like to see it flying - one evening, maybe? Tom.
We've had our Raymarine Autohelm 6000 head die on us last November, so I replaced it (head only) with a Navman. Bearing in mind it has a gyro incorporated, it's great value. We kept the Raymarine linear motor and that seemed fine for a while, but we're now getting 'drive failure' errors on the Navman, even in very calm condtions. I don't think that's actually the case but suspect that the Navman expects a slightly quicker response than the ST6000 linear drive unit provides. Anyway, the linear drive has been operating (I believe) since 'Nightlife' was born (1983), so it's given good service. I shall try Navman tech support and see if I can keep it going a while longer! Hope that helps. Tom
My previous autohelm 6000 did not prove strong enough with a lot of weather helm, it would quit and beep. This on a Tall Mast Head rig. Cheers, Francois.
All the best, Tom Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Easy to get at and service but virtually no problems over a few years. Copes well in heavy weather. Good luck. Ian
Had an ST6000 with linear drive (fitted as original) which at end of last season started similar antics. Beeping, all over the ocean, voltage drops, etc. Had Raymarine check out all the units and it was found that the problems were in the course computer circuit boards - they no longer have spare parts. Did deal to take factory reconditioned Smart pilot S2 (needs new cockpit control head unit as old not compatible) but drives linear drive beautifully. Needs a rudder position indicator fitted - some ST6000 had them, others did not. Fair winds David. 'Intrigue'.
The Whitlock drive is still six or seven weeks away. More in a couple of months. Ted Keech
We have a fully battened main on Restless with a new stackpack fitted this year. Reefing and dropping are no problem but the sheer weight of the whole thing makes it more or less impossible to raise above the hounds (F/Rig) single handed.Are you serious about the lube and does it really help? I saw a similar rig with a block at the head of the sail giving a 2-1 purchase, any thoughts? Jim
I just found this site and i´m happy to meet otherSigma 41 ouwners . We bought this Sigma in 2004and we named the yacht GRACIOSA (ex Dulle Krabbe) . she is located ad Nieuwpoort Belgium . Graciosa is fractional ridged . Yacht nr J 1067 hull nr PLY 0102/85 Herman
forget the E-mail [Log in to view email] Herman
does anyone know where I can get a new spinnaker pole for my Yacht S41 MH "Scehawk". I was sailing in Antigua and managed to drop ity over the side-and no they don't float too well! The next bit is are any available in the Caribbean? thanks Jon PS Roger my boat details are Name "Scehawk of Tamar" Class Sigma 41MH Builder Marine Projects LOA 12.15M Beam 3.95M Draught 2.10M Registration Part 1 registered. Official number: 714825 Yard Number J108 Engine Bukh 36HP Engine Serial Number 2632 lying Caribbean-leewards comments -amazing boat -love her!
Has anyone revised their main sheet arrangements to make adjustment easier when sailing shorthanded ? We find that with one person on deck and steering, the position of the mainsheet and it's winch ahead of the steering column is pretty inconvenient. Seems like it would be an advantage if it were re-led so as to be at hand from behind the wheel. Has anyone done this and if so, how did you go about it ? (Mine's a masthead rig.) Adrian
When I am on watch alone, I sit forward of the wheel (often under the dodger), steer with autopilot remote and trim sails from where I can reach both main & jib. I tend not to gybe intentionally very often when alone, but when there are two of us, Diane drives through the gybe, and I trim the main first and then the jib. This works fine for me because I think trimming sails is a lot more fun that steering in the ocean anyway. Ted Keech
We changed ours just last week! It's a little early to say just yet how well it'll perform, but we've got a 5:1 purchase on it with triple Lewmar ball-bearing blocks above and below. We may yet add a fine-tune to it for getting it in hard when racing, but the difference the ball blocks makes is sensational - heaps more efficient. I have the bottom block fixed (forward) and the top block allowed to swivel. That's on the basis that if I've got to adjust the main, then I have to go forward to adjust the genoa (but I'm sure it would work fine pointed backwards if that's what you like). The mainsheet seems very reluctant to twist, which is great, as the old one used to all the time (which reduced efficiency still further). My only misgiving is that the shackles which these (60mm) blocks come with seem tiny by comparison to the originals, even though the spec says the SWL is adequate. (We're masthead too). Hope that helps. Tom
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