Sigma 41
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Did you fit the same type and make or did find something different? Ted,I am working on getting the address of the company that renewed our windows which may be of some help(waiting on reply from pal) Jim
Phone No. and email address as promised.When we did our windows we were put in touch with this company.Because of the makeup of sigma windows (i.e. a frame within a frame they had to be machine sealed. we sent our existing frames and the company fitted new plastic to the frames. Class job. Hope they can help. Jim 01756 79209 http://www.eagleboatwindows.co.uk
There's a very helpful chap with a Sigma 41 who owns the marina at Ambleside on the NE coast. (Sorry to be so vague about names, but I'm away at the moment). He's put the batteries over the keel & made a lovely job of it. Try googling Amble Marina to get his contact details. If you get stuck give me a call and I'll try and find them. Tom Nightlife
Re your saloon windows: we recently renewed ours. One thing we should have done, in retrospect, was to put an opening portlight above the galley instead of replacing the standard plexiglass. Has anyone done this? Tom Nightlife
Like the beer idea, however, responsible skipper and all that. Shawn.
Ref the batteries On Candida the batteries were at the aft end of the table under the floor on the starboard side when we bought her. We moved the 3 100 a/h service batteries to the port side , one under the aft end return of the U settee, the other two under the floor just forward of that. We have a small cranking battery for the engine which is located in the bilge just forward of the engine. it did help the list considerably! Roger
After 3 years of trying to bodge them we finally have just had the windows out, they came apart relatively easily, a bit like Meccano ! If the screws are corroded in it is possible to drill them out and make a small aluminium fixing piece. I did bend one frame (It had been stuck in with a Sikaflex adhesive!), but it actually went back in quite smoothly. Having got the perspex out it was a really simple job to re-seal using auto windscreen goo (can't think of a better word) it is better than Sikaflex or the like as it remains soft and pliable and is not an adhesive, so you can do it again in 10 years! result - dry windows - yippee
Let me add my two cents on the batteries-in-the-bilge issue. The bilge on this boat is so shallow that it only takes about three tablespoons of water in there the cause trouble in the ocean. I would be very worried about getting enough salt water in there to create a short across the terminals or to ground the battery to something else, like the keel bolts. It would not take much current, I suspect, to induce severe galvanic corrosion of the keel or the keel bolts over many years. I am no electrician and no scientist, but I wouldn't do it. And besides, don't you guys all drink your beer warm? Ted Keech FAYAWAY San Francisco
I am surprised at your lack of confidence! We never had any water in that part of the boat, even when the stern gland let go and put 6+ inches of water in the engine compartments (twice!) There is plenty of room for beer in the bilge even with the batteries there - believe me we had enough for a transatlantic for five thirsty sailors in there! Have fun Roger Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Back from nearly three montths sailing on Dorothea in the Carribean and I can confirm that the conversion to cutter rig is a brilliant solution to short handed cruising for these boats. Anthony (the previous owner who replied earlier to your message) carried out the work after taking advice on the conversion from the designer, mast maker aqnd sailmaker and it has worked really well from England through to the Carribean. It certainly makes the boat very easy to handle just by me and my lady (who professes not to be a sailor) whilst maintaining the yacht's speed. Moreover the perfomance in strong breezes with just the hanked jib and reefs (and the genny furled up) is excellent. So I can fully recommend doing it. Adrian
Well the batterries work great. We also have a dry bilge (except round the mast!!!!), courtesy of replacing the keel bolt washers with 10mm steel plate ( big buggers) which spreads the load. We now have a skirt which has been faired with a gap, filled the gap with Sika. Fowey Regatta Candida will be in Fowey with Black Adder racing again.......hurrah! Now we would love to invite any other Sigma 41's down for a race too, it's great fun and on the two passage races both Sigma's were top 3 boats. So we know the boats are competitive. The round the cans is much harder, especially in the lighter airs. If anyone is intersted in racing that week, if we can get 5 Sigma's we will get our own class race, it's a great week and well worth the visit. Anyone up for a challenge and to discuss all the peculiarities and actually see the modifications on the boats. Please get in touch and I can send you the details. Hope you're all enjoying the great weather. Best regards. Shawn Black Adder
just come back from another great few weeks cruising in the Caribbean in "Scehawk Of Tamar" (41MH). Boat went superbly as ever but alas I have the prospect of changing the water tanks which are starting to corrode and leak. Has anyone out there dealt with this problem? What did you do in the end -renew the SS tanks or put in a flexi liner? Does anyone have the construction drawings of the tanks? All info gratefully received plus any good contractors who helped out. cheers Jon
The tiller arm, being mild steel and positioned directly under the emergency tiller access hatch, is rusted, but not damaged. It will be blasted and painted. However, the steel bracket under the aft deck that holds the upper rudder bearing, also being mild steel and having the bronze bearing in it, is seriously corroded and will be replaced with a stainless bracket. There is also a steel and wood fitting that acts as a cushion between the aft end of the bracket and the fiberglass transom. That was seriously wasted. The yard is constructing a new one out of "G-10", which is a hard, non-brittle plastic, I think. We have learned that we need to check the O-ring in the emergency tiller access hatch more often to try to prevent this kind of damage. We also installed a rubber gasket under the fitting itself because it appeared that water was leaking in between the deck and the body of the hatch. Unless you have done better than we and FAYAWAY's prior owners have in preventing leaks at that access hatch, you might want to get that rudder bracket out and look at it. The corrosion was worst on the top, which is not visible until the rudder is off and the bracket removed. Ted Keech FAYAWAY San Francisco
It seems that we both have MH Sigma 41's in the Caribbean. Why don't you contact me so we can compare notes - [Log in to view email] +44 1206735521 Adrian Dorothea of London
I was looking at your 2005 posting concerning the keel. The boatyard has expressed concern about wasting of metal on the iron plate that attaches the keel to the boat. Do you know how thick that was when it was new. I have seen mention of a couple of people who replaced keels. Any idea why? Do you have any sense of how much wasting in that plate is cause for repalcement? Are any repairs possible? Ted
The flange at the top is cast iron with stainless bolts - I am surprised to hear of wasting - unless there is some pretty severe electrolosis? Certainly our keel had no serious rust or cavities other that the usual cavities from casting by the manufacturers As far as I know the only reason that Tommy Big Eyes and others have replaced their keels has been for impact damage. Roger
Ted
Ted Keech FAYAWAY San Francisco
Just dug out the pictures of when my keel came off and I think an inch is about right, if you measure the housing cavity it should be more or less the same as the keel thinckness. When we took the keel off we sikaflexed it back in, also this year we used steel plates in lieu of washers to spread the load of the keel better, we had one plate per section between the stringers, we used 12mm. The keel has never been so tight and the stress through the bottom of the boat has been evened out. On another note, when we put the keel back in we faired the bottom to make a smooth finish, however, we used a thin spacer (piece of sticky back foam draft excluder,) to maintain an even 5mm gap around the keel edge and the edge of the housing/hull, when the filler was still tacky, we pulled the foam out to leave a neat gap round, which we then filled with sikaflex, this gave some flexibility for any hull and keel movement. As a result we now have a seamless finish accross the hull of the boat, the keel is watertight. Candida also uses a flexible filler between the keel and the hull as well, I imagine most do. Can you email me directly Ted and I will send the photos of the keel out, [Log in to view email] Cheers. Shawn.
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