Sigma 41
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Have a great time - look forward to seeing you in the UK Roger
Tom 'Nightlife'
Best of luck and fair winds to you both. If you land in Scotland give us a shout (Fairlie Yacht Club). Jim 'Restless'
As it happened we had the alternator off - the bracket sheared but helpful Portuguese engineer in small fishing port had it welded and sorted within 30 mins !!! He also sorted an intermittent fault in the starter in 15 mins which the yard where she wintered, with all their 'technological know-how and gizmos' failed to fix (at great expense too) over the lay-up period. Maybe the lesson is to find a practical person who earns their livihood by keeping commercial boats working to fix the problems. Cheers David.
Regards, Tom
Does anyone know what the size of the keelbolt nuts are? I thought I measured it at 46mm-but I could easily be wrong and it could even be imperial. Next one is does the net know what the correct torque for these is? I have got cracking at the keel/hull interface (looking from the outside), no leakage on the inside of the boat. I understand that this is very normal for a 33 Sigma to show rust and look horrendous when hauled. How have any of you dealt with this phoenomenon?. Boat is in Caribbean and I really do not want to remove the keel if not absolutley essential. I suppose there is always going to be flexion in this area but how best to deal with it? Any helpful thoughts greatfully received all the best Jon PS I just had a thought ....could this "cracking" be simply in the protective epoxy layer recently applied?-please God!
Don't panic - if its not leaking and the heads are not moving it is probably just the epoxy cracking - if this is a hard filler it will crack as there is always a little movement - try raking it out and put a slightly softer filler that will take some movement - I don't think anyone has yet found a perfect answer by the way....
We had our keelbolts out a couple of years ago but we did not size them, but I can tell you it took 2 of us(stronger than average) with 2'6" extensions on a heavy socket set to remove them and they were tightened the same way.The keel itself is attached (how i dont know)to a large plate approx 1' wide and approx 3" longer than the keel fore and aft. The keel is attached to hull into a tapered recess approx 3/4" larger than the plate allround using some form of epoxy glue with the bolts made fast to the plate.Sometimes the hull and plate are flushed off(filling what remains of the recess)with filler.So unless you can see the actual edge of the plate where it bonds to the hull your thoughts are probably correct.. Jim 'Restless'
Agree with Roger (Candida) don't panic. It is the "norm" with the 41's to have cracking issues around the skirt. We have solved ours, we have a dry bilge........hurrah! Even after a bouncy Fastnet and highly tensioned rig, don't you love these boats. We did reset our keel with more sikaflex than you can shake a stick at, it still flexed and cracked the skirt. The following year we did 2 things to stop this from happening. We carefully cut back the filler to expose the join between the keel and the hull recess, we used a piece of foam (draft excluder as it has a sticky back and stays in place) and stuck it in the groove making sure it was backing onto the sikaflex in the join, we then epoxy filled over the whole area, before the epoxy dried we pulled the foam out leaving a gap between the new epoxy, when dryied we sanded it all flat (faster), filled the gap between the keel and the hull with sikaflex, sanded, primed and antifouled. We pulled her out the other day and there is no cracking, a token of rust streak, but mainly a releived owner. We also, undid the keel bolts and fitted solid steel plates over them in lieu of washers to minimise the flex in this area. We have some photo's if you wish. My keel bolts are new stainless ones and the nuts are about 52mm so I think they probably vary. Cheers now. Shawn Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
well thats a relief! Yes Shawn I do Love these boats, sounds like quite an ingenious plan to rectify the situation. I am not sure I understand why it works though as you still have a rigid epoxy skin over the flexible sika layer? Perhaps you could send me some photos on [Log in to view email] Jim the keel bolts sound reassuringly tight-did you seal around the studs before the washer and nuts? Torqued or just effing tight? I will dig a little and try the softer filler touch next time out Roger. A friend of mine whose Brother has a 33 suggests that it may be because the boat was sitting in a cradle -weight on the keel for 10 months and then floated and "hanging" the keel whilst given reasonable amounts of stick (well its sailing heaven there!) Do you guys think this is a possibility? Thanks for the tips anyway- I appreciate the vote of confidence in her. cheers Jon
All we did was put a coat of grease(waterproof)on the threads and then effing tight.Almost certainly the crack appears because the keel is hanging in the water and then gets pushed up through the boat on the hard. There must be considerable movement in this area. Jim. 'Restless'
Anyone want a full set of racing white foresails for a masthead 41 - free ? Will be binned if no one wants them. (My boat now has a furling rig.) Adrian Biggs Dorothea of London +44 (0) 1206735521
Am surprised you don't use the No.2 and No.3 on your new roller. On second thoughts, are they hanked? Cheers now. Shawn. Black Adder
Seacocks in/out should be under the fwd cabin seat port side next to the mast. We've tried to change our pipe in this area last month, but had to cry off and try again this winter, bl**dy tight fit. Almost definatley a Jabsco manual. One of the difficulties we have with this loo is that you can fall out of the door when at sea whilst pulling trousers/long Johns/pants/knickers up and down, during Fastnet 2005 I fell out (the heads) and cracked my back, nearly passingh out with the pain. Fortunatley all crew were on deck and couldn't therefore regail countless tales of the skipper falling bare arsed into the cabin to other local crews. At sea no one is allowed to use this one except in an emergency..... also, during Fastnet 2007 it meant when some bugger (who knows better) blocked the aft head with a pampers face wipe (it was a bloke too!) We had a spare khazi. (There was a minor issue that one of the crew couldn't wait for me to open the sea cocks and had to hang over the stern to ease thier discomfort..... not pleasant.) When we take it apart next month we can swap tales of the lead etc. personally I would go for best fit, not necesarily the same route marine projects, took. Cheers now. Shawn. Black Adder.
We are interested in the set of racing white foresails. How old are the sails? What is the condition of the sails? Keimpe and Ank
The boat was previously (two names ago) called Sunbeat V and did a lot of racing in the solent. The sails are for a foil, not hanked. There is no need to carry the no 2 or 3 because Anthony Llewellen Davies, the last owner, converted the boat to cutter rig. This enables us to reduce sail first using the roller and eventually down to the jib on it's own which is effectively a number 4. I haven't ever had the sails out of the bag so have no measurements but can do so, and I expect that the sailmakers have them on record. Why not give me a ring and we can take this further(+447774938712). For purposes of collection, we are in Essex, near Colchester. Adrian
Here we go again! A couple of weeks of rain and what happens? My chainplates drip all over my bulkheads, leaving wet wood underneath the varnish and threatening to disfigure my interior if I don't react quickly enough. Over the years I 've tried everything, (including opening out the passages through the deck to allow more flex in the silicone), but still no ongoing success. Anyone got a magic wand? Tom.
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Edited by Ted 21 August 2007, 2:09 AM
