Sigma 41
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How bad is your teak deck? one solution which I have used on a fibreglass deck which had separated from the balsa core was to inject epoxy into the void, this was recommended by the surveyor and worked well. With regards to the hatch, I removed the Perspex by cutting the sealant with a Stanley knife (be careful of the seal, then clean off the remainder of the sealant from the frame using white spirit. I used the same size polycarbonate as the Perspex. The polycarbonate was also clear which lightened the yachts interior. If you require further info you can contact me on [Log in to view email] Regards Wayne & Sue
we just found this forum. Do you remember us. We are the couple that owns the S41 "Evergreen" and met at the ARC 2003. It's good to read that you had a good trip back to UK. This summer we spent a lot of time with our EVERGREEN at the west coast of sweden and enjoyed sailing in swedens skaregard. Armin + Nicole
Had not logged in for a week or two - - Yes of course I remember - good to hear from you - wish you compliments of the season and good cruising in 2005! Roger
Ted Keech FAYAWAY -- San Francisco
We are selling to buy bigger but I wonder at the logic. Good luck with your deliberations, Ron Winn
I had the same problem, eventually after resealing all the deck fittings and granny bars tracked the last leak to the cableways down the mast. Regards Wayne & Sue AlphaIV [Log in to view email]
1. Two of the toe-rail bolts had lost their nuts and were loose. Removed, filled, drilled out and replaced with lag screws; 2. The sink in the forward head lets in a lot of water on the starboard tack in a seaway unless the thru-hull valve under the bowl is closed. 3. The chainplates are leaking -- today's problem. I think the shrouds need to be released and the turnbuclkes (do you call them bottlescrews?) off to get the decorative cover plates off and recaulk. 4. We had an exhaust water leak. I don't know whether the arrangement was original, but the engine anti-siphon hose led all the way aft to the exhaust thru-hull, where it was supposed to be attached to a nipple that had been installed in the thru-hull and soldered or brazed. In the hot, salty exhaust water, it had failed. (It was a crazy system to begin with for any number of reasons.) If the water that accumulates is aft the dam which is just forward of the engine and if it is warm after the engine has been running, scrunch back to the thru hull and take a look. 5. We had a loose hose clamp on a thru-hull just aft of the forward head. At first I thought it was a water-tank leak because there was enough fresh water coming in down the mast and thru the chainplate leak that it didn't taste very salty. 6. The limber holes don't drain the water back to bilge pump sumps very well. We use a wet-dry vacuum to bail the boat every once in a while and use the long extension wand to get out to the sides and under the furniture. Ours lists slightly to starboard and we have to chase the water that runs to that side. 7. The seal in the forward hatch dried out and failed when we were well off shore in some windy, bouncy conditions. Every third wave drove about a pint of water onto our bunk. You can get new ones from Lewmar via West Marine in the U.S., but you have to search the Lewmar website to get the part number because the hatches are so old. 8. Our anchor locker drained some water into the bilge. The rode had been led back through the forward bulkhead under the forward berth. Some water came off the rode itself and some came down the hawse hole (not a lot, but some). That was a nasty arrangement for many reasons, and we redid the whole anchor handling system. It puts the weight farther forward, but it keeps the boat drier and less smelly. Let me know if you want the gory details and pictures of what we did to it. Good luck. Ted Keech FAYAWAY -- San Francisco
Been out of the picture, sorry, will email through usual channel. Everybody: For all on this site, I have bought web domain Sigma41.com and will host this for free, can anyone come up with a) suggestions for the site and b) membership, am new at this and would like to give Sigma 41's and thier owners a site for recommendations etc. etc. and history of boats, modifications etc. Happy New Year to all and safe sailing! Shawn. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Thats great news - I maybe contact with some sailing mags might turn up a review? Also wonder if Janet Grosvenor at RORC might have some paperwork still? Only historical thing I have is a 1984 price list!!! Do you think there would be interest in a meet somewhere on the S Coast this summer?
HER HOMEPORT HAS BEEN VALPARAISO- CHILE , HAS BEEN ALWAYS A BULLETPROOF SAILBOAT AGAINST 45 K WINDS ,TIDE AND WAVES IN THIS COLD HUMBOLT CURRENT PART OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN , ALWAYS HAS TAKEN CARE OF MY FAMILY AND MY SELF NO MATTER WHAT ,I WILL REALLY MISS HER. GREAT BOAT GREAT SOUND SAILING IN TOUGH SEAS.
Ted Keech FAYAWAY -- San Francisco
Wonder if anyone has had experience of removing the engine (Bukh) ? We have to get ours out - seems to have blown something internally which is pressurising the sump - hence oil in bilge not in sump!! Have disconnected all the usual wires and pipes and have removed the bottom step of the companionway - anyone know if we have to remove the upper steps as well? (really hope not as it looks a horrible job) Also if the engined is damaged beyond repair (a possibility) has anyone changed to another make with success? Thanks - think of me with oil to my armpits Roger PS intending to remove with gearbox attached
I have had the engine out of Graphix and it is not a problem. The job is easier if you remove everything - side pieces as well. The teak plugs will require careful removal, water heater removal, saloon light switch wiring to remove and there is a bolt behind your rear cabin mirror which needs removing. The benefits are easier engine lifting from above, all teak can be removed for better varnish strip and replacement and the bilge can be ground and re-gelcoated while the engine is lifted clear. I removed the table and floorboards and put temporary ones down then lifted the engine into the saloon where I stripped and rebuilt. Whilst the engine is clean a spray can of red paint finished the job. Good Luck, Ron Winn (Graphix)
Well we are 1/2 way there! Thanks for the tips - will keep you posted Roger
We replaced our Bukh in early 2002. I didn't see them remove the engine, but I don't think they brought the gearbox out with the engine. We cut away the bottom steps, and I am not aware of any other deconstruction. (We had removed the water heater long before at the insistence of our insurance company.) I do know that the chainfall hit the KVH compass display that was mounted on the aft surface of the main companionway hatch and destroyed it You can still buy the very same Bukh engine, and that is, overall, the cheapest way to go. We replaced ours with a Yanmar 3JH3. It's a wonderful engine: small, significantly quieter, much easier to service, easier to maintain in the long run because it is fresh water cooled, and more fuel efficient because it runs hotter, and that extra heat heats our hot water. It was, however, damned expensive to install, because we needed new stringers, wiring, instrument panel and engine controls. We did not replace the propeller. It's a little large; we only get about 2500 rpm, instead of 3200, but it's not so large that we get any black smoke, and I am told that as long as there is no black smoke, we will get better fuel economy. It drives the boat at hull speed at 2500 rpm. Yanmar sells a gearbox with a slight down angle, and we had that installed also. As long as the oil doesn't get to far above your arm pits, you should be fine. Good luck. Ted Keech FAYAWAY -- San Francisco
I agree with you a dry boat is a happy boat. Something to note when resealing your chain plates. I found that the gap between the chain plates and the deck to be small, less then 2 mm so if you had a 1mm movement that equates to a 50% flex in the sealant, most sealants don’t have that flexibility. We increased to gap before resealing, we also resealed when the rig was under tension. Hope this helps Regards Wayne & Sue Yacht AlphaIV [Log in to view email]
Does anyone know anything about the tube for the electrical cables in the mast? Where are the ends of it. How big around is it? Has anyone ever taken it out and been able to replace it? If so, did you have to drill new holes in the tube for the rivets? Ted Keech FAYAWAY San Francisco
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