Sigma 41
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My Sigma 41 "Savitar" at present is on the hard at Port Edgar (Queensferry,Edinburgh) waiting for warmer temps to antifoul. I will be sailing round to the west about mid May and I have a mooring in Loch Aline. Confined to the western Isles this season due to work committments. I kept the boat at Ardfern for a while in the nineties, nice spot and good facilities at the Yacht Centre. Will look out for you if you venture up the Sound of Mull. On the subject of Anti foul paint I am considerering applying "Coppercoat" for long term protection. Has anyone any experience of this product? Cheers Craig
Thanks for that, "Savitar" is J1040 so must be hull no 40 launched 1984. Cheers Craig
Let us know what you discover! Sally and George
I applied it to a previous boat, and performance was excellent I know of about 3 boats in the yard in Cowes where are laid up who use it , or similar, and are happy with it - but it is not cheap and you need to start from bare gelcoat as it is an epoxy based treat,ent, it does the added advantage of course of giving an epoxy shield!!!
Where is your boat? and do you have the hull number: fractional or m/h Its not that I am very nosy - but I am trying to put together a record of as many 41's as possible Roger If you prefer my email is [Log in to view email]
We have a mooring in the lagoon next to the marina for three months from June. We certainly will be traversing the sound( the Mishnish is at the other end). We will keep a lookout for you. Cheers Jim
How do you rate the effectiveness of the coppercoat over the years and what sort of maintenance is required year on year? Craig
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I'm just contemplating installing an electric windlass and wondered what rearrangements around the bow locker anyone had made? The problem as I see it is where to drop the chain to and how to get it there. At moment with what I expect is the original configuration I need someone below to lay any chain in the chain locker. Lowering the bow locker floor looks favourite at the moment, I'd be grateful for any suggestions. Simon 'Beach Fox'
I fitted a Lofrans 2 years ago - it has the advantage of fitting the orginal plinth with only a slight mod needed by cutting out a hole for the motor. I gave up with the original layout - it was just impossible for regular anchoring, and as you say it is forever jamming up. I removed the s/s tube and instead feed the chain into the very forward peak - I then sealed the bulkhead for safety's sake with an ply doubler bolted through. I left a small drain hole at the bottom so that it doesn't get too fetid as well! I also fitted an access hatch in the forward bulkhead above bunk level in case of any problems (also helped when sealing old pipe hole). So far in two seasons it has been a joy, I do qyuite a lot of Committee Boat work and we are always having to move, never a problem (yet!) Roger Candida
interested in your experiences with anchor windlass and chain arrangements. We also find the original arrangement doesn't work unless there is a crew member flaking the chain into the chain locker, a real nuisance. Roger,please can you say how much chain do you fit into the "crash locker"? and how much could it take. Do you have any sort of "seal"in the chain hole round the chain? Have you had the boat beating into "bows burried" rough weather scince fitting the windlass, did much water get into the locker? Your solution to this problem sounds really great, simple cheap and effective ; do you notice any sailing effect from the the weight of the chain a bit further forward? (For racing we take the chain off and carry the anchor, 10m chain and 50m anchor plait in the bilge.) the windlass that I would like to fit is the Lofrans "Tigress": this will involve modifying the plinth to get 80mm more headroom in the bow locker. Your thoughts on this proposal most welcome Allen Medmerry II
Well.. We carry 40 metres of 10mm chain in the locker - and I reckon you could put another 30 there is you really wanted to - when we go off serious cruising we tend to put another 10 metres in there anyway. Can't say that we noticed any real difference - I have to admit I am too lazy to take the anchor and cable out and move it, too b****y heavy and it would scratch the paint work in the bilge! although we did remove it for Fowey week last year. Yes we have had regular green water over the deck - beating west last year in May we had continuous F5 and above, and had lots of 'greenies' - there is not a significant ingress of water - although when raising anchor in Christchurch Bay in 30 kts wind against tide we did fill the well and got about 3 gallons into the locker, some form of bung could be introduced?. (to keep the secondary locker dry you could always fit a bung like they have on Laser dinghies?). We did look at modifying the plinth but it would be a bit of a major job as to reduce the height you would have to cut off the top, and thats the most difficult to remould without easy access from inside.That is why we ended up with the Lofrans Kobra 10 mm unit - which only entailed an enlargement of the hawse hole in the top of the plinth and that was it. In fact we had originally ordered a different unit (cant remember which one) and once we found it wouldn't fit we put a 1/2 inch ply top on top of the original, to cover up my mess! and it still fits under the cover easily. One other thing we did was to cut out a couple of inches at the forward end of the cover so that the big CQR will sit in the bow roller, save lifting when crusising! Good luck Roger ps if you want any more info give me a ring 07887674020
many thanks for your comprehensive and super-quick reply;very reassuring and useful to have pathfinding info. 15 years ago, suspecting something wrong with the boat (upwind performance slower than a tortoise in a deep freeze) I eventually was curious as to whether there was water in the crash locker, which was totally inaccessible; drilled a 10mm exploritory hole at the bottom of the bulkhead, water jetted out for nearly an hour.We fitted a dinghy type plastic screw drain as low as we dared, and a 250mm strong watertight screw hatch just above the bunks. Curiously no water has got into the crash locker scince, so dont know how it did before. At a metre distance, through a 250mm hole the hull-deck joint looks OK, but proper close inspection is out of reach. The only other place where h-d joint leaked very slightly is the sail locker. So I'm in the "if it aint broke dont fix it" stage, and hoping to stay there. No Laser knowlege, (1950's-60's N12 man). I will research chain surounding bungs.The old gym-shoe that we roll up and trap in the chain hole at the forward end of the bow locker door, is the most valued item on the yacht.We must also get a size larger drain holes and fairings to drain the locker. Thank you for phone contact number. regards Allen Medmerry II
George & Sally
George & Sally
I have misplaced your email address. I am trying to take off the teak decking, and I cannot figure out the best way to get at the bolts for the mooring cleats. The lockers are block access to the nuts. Any suggestions? Ted Keech
When I did this I found the method of least damage was to cut a hole in the ceiling of each locker below the cleats. The ceiling isn't visible from outside the locker and you can always glue or velcro a sheet of ply over it by poking a piece of ply a little bigger than the hole back up through it. Tom
When we did this three years ago we carefully prized the "ceilings" of 6mm ply out of place, leaving them in the bottom of the locker and refitting them on completion. it is of course impossible to remove them out of the locker. in our case the ply was relatively easy to detach, very little glue had been used originally. Hole saw in an angle drill sounds a simpler solution particularly if the job was propperly glued. Allen Medmerry
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