Sigma 41
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Sailing Today article highly successful for promoting Sigma 41, you have done a great job for all of us. Sailing education of one more yacht reviewer advanced too, as he obviously enjoyed a new experience at the helm of a classic IOR cruiser/racer. Why have we been so unsuccessful in retaining the idea? Could the "rule-makers" who allowed "large dinghies-with-lids-on" be persuaded to return to sensible thinking? Is it now time for a bit of serious yachting, allowing only yachts built before 1988,when the rot really set in? Maybe like the boat i'm just too old, but Sig 41's are always super to sail. Allen
Thanks Roger
Can't think but maybe an email to them and they could post you one ?
This is last reply you will get for a bit as we are leaving Cascais tomorrow for the Canaries. Roger
What material do people use for mast partner wedges? Someone here has recommended Starbright, others teak. Hard rubber makes sense to me, but it is hard to find thick enough sheets. I don't know whether other boats are the same, but we have nearly 1" of clearance all the way around the mast, and this requires big wedges. Ted
The blocks are available from selden dealers here of the shelf. Simon
Hard rubber is apparently the best - the riggers hers hereruse it in 1/2 to 3/4 inch strips. They use a winch to pull mast back/forward to the right position so that the 'give' in the rubber makes sure it doesn't fall out - they also have used wood wedges (teak I think) Roger
I've had to relocate mine in heavy weather, too - a couple of times, in fact and using the technique Roger described. Don't be shy - from the winch go round the mast and back to a strong point (e.g. another winch) so you have a double purchase then winch the mast back with the heaviest genoa sheets you have until they're really squeal. My rigger told me that it's possible to buy 'L' - shaped rubber sections that won't fall through in heavy weather but I haven't yet done so. Regards, Tom. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Not only does it stay in place in any weather but is much safer if the rubber boot at the base of the mast on deck is ripped off since it will prevent large volumes of water coming down below. Just follow the intructions carefully, pretension the mast before you pour, and plan ahead for what you will do when taking the spar down. Since it puts circumferencial pressure on the mast, it prevents local high pressure points. I have had it in place for many years now. Francois, Time Off, Tall MH rig, 071
According to Spencer Rigging it should nor be used as if you need to remove the mast it is virtually impossible as the spartight fills the hollows in the deck partners and makes it virtually impossible to remove the mast without major work cutting through the material.
Lasse
Jim
jimmymac, please send the brochure to me [Log in to view email] I just fitted a new engine in Denmark. I can really recommend http://www.lsm-diesel.dk/ I sailed the boat down one weekend and came down 14 days later. Everything was running smoothly and the had to redo a lot of the electrical since it was original English standard. I'm going to fix the rudder next 14 days, since it hangs some times and is not exact enough (slings a bit). Any good tip is welcome on this issue!
haven't got a Phone no. or address? Thank you
Could I ask you for a copy of the article, if you now have a copy? thank you
Rog
I went through the archives remembering someone tackled the teak deck "fix". My deck also is in tough shape and I am contemplating the removal of the teak and repair and re-affix. The question to you is..when you removed the plywood underlayment did you replace this plywood, if so did you attach the plywood to the deck and then the teak over this? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. RIck
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