Sigma 41
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The teak deck on Sigmas and most other production modern?boats is manufactured in units i.e.teak attached to preshaped veneers of plywood,which means sometimes the bond between plywood and deck breaks down or the bond between plywood and teak or both and usually in different places! That means that a patch job is rarely successful. If you are doing the complete deck then its plank by plank using the correct Sikaflex adhesive direct to the cleaned glass fibre deck using weights to adhere it and no screws. Under the teak is a proper finished deck but almost impossible to clean. We simply applied deckpaint and renewed all the cockpit teak. Looks better than the old teak which was like a scenic railway. Jim
I know you are away and I am off early tomorrow morning! I am going past Weymouth on the 2nd Jan it would be nice to have a look at Shogun, if possible to see if it really is what I am looking for! If that is possible coul you send me the details of how when where etc as I am away for the next week but will pick up my e-mails when I return, Thank you
Ted Keech
I saw that you had an extra front wire for a storm fokk (geneau). You have fastened right behind the front hatchet. How did you strengthen the deck here? My thoughts would be to have a wire down from the mast, but with a hook that we can fasten when we need it. Then it's not a problem when we are sailing with the main geneau. Does anybody have good ideas (and pictures) of how to fasten the wire to the deck? (or fasten the hook where we are going to have fasten the wire for the storm fokk)
Yes we completely removed and replaced all the teak deck and cockpit. As the screws had been left in, counterbored, and plugged, we carefully drilled out the plugs and removed the screws every piece was numbered before the teak and ply were removed in sections. Each piece of teak was then removed from any remaining ply and adhesive. as much as possible of the old adhesive was scraped and ground off the deck structure. The teak was replaced (no ply) in small sections onto two-part epoxy which was thickly spread onto the deck, and filled any old screw holes or other surface defects. we fixed the deck with temporary screws which were removed and the holes plugged when the epoxy had set. on completion of each main area the deck seams were filled with SIKAFLEX`s finest with bond breaking tape at the base of the seam. To save time and money we used a pneumatic sealant `gun`, with the sealant in polythene `sausages`, rather than the more expensive and awkward-to use cardboard tubes. Finally the whole deck was sanded using a belt-sander and detail-sander, to give an `as-new`look to the whole boat. It`s a vast amount of work, and I did not attempt to do this myself. I was lucky enough to have a young fit skillful friend, who I was able to employ on and off for nearly six months to complete the job. I have a complete over-boom cover which provides at least some cover to enable the work to progress in all but the coldest weather.(the epoxy is VERY tempeature sensitive) Would I have a teak deck on a boat again? NO,NO,NO It is revolting folly, suitable only for rich men and fools. Weight in the wrong place, needs constant maintenance to look good, even when not needing total replacement, which seems to be every 25 years at best. On the other hand it`s saved the boat from declining into a festering eyesore, and she still looks good for 20 more years. For the same money you get nothing comparable in any other boat. good luck. Allen
Thanks for all of the information! It sounds as though the results are a good thing! We're under 2 feet of snow here and the reality of sailing is a long way away.... The teak on Interlude is in decent shape in the bow section, but at mid-ship and beyond there are quite a few areas of delamination. I'm concerned not just by the appearance but the eventuality of water finding its way where it can do more damage than cosmetic. I'm wondering if the effort required is more based on tedium or if a great deal of skill is also required? Is the two-part expoxy used for the bedding an elastic type? If you were to try to segment the labor between the removal of material, cleaning/preparing deck, cleaning/preparing teak, re-application of teak, sanding and caulking of teak, what is your opinion of relative effort? I'm assuming your only other option would be to remove the teak, clean/prepare the deck and apply non-skid paint? Again, thanks for your help and those who also contributed to this problem. FYI, I changed out the BUKH with a 40 hp Yanmar this summer. It wasn't a cheap venture but the BUKH's oil was being infiltrated by water and I didn't feel it was too prudent to spend the dollars on determining where the water was coming from and what fix would be required and to what extent this would extend its life. Yanmar is nice and quiet. The propeller, shaft and transmission were also replaced. Anyone have an interest in a complete BUKH? Merry Christmas to all!!!
I need a new part for the rudder system. Who manufactures it? Anybody with experience of fixing the rudder? thanks all!
The system is designed to allow easy reduction of play. Originally there were three paper-thin plastic spacers between the pinion and the rack. When the steering gets play in it, you remove the wheel and brake mechanism, pull out the pinion and remove one of the spacers, reassemble it and test it. It worked for me. If you have a more serious problem, it is potentially very expensive. According to Lewmar in Conneticut it is impossible to disassemble the steering system much more than is described above, and the only option that I am aware of is to buy a whole new system from drag link to pinion. The manufacture is a semi-custom process. We decided not to do it, at least not yet, and it won't be cheap, I'm sure. Call Lewmar for the gory details. Ted Keech
please ring 01305 871277 rog
Think Ted mentioned a US company a few years ago. Advice appreciated David / Intrigue Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Ted Keech
Cheers David
Hi Jim Nice to hear from you. Hope you had a good trip over to Greece and no regrets. Moved the boat last year from Corinth area to near Spetsai. John
I will send more details upon return. 
Candida is currently in Lagos - having aborted our Atlantic trip in the autumn due to surgery required to both boat and my back. Thanks
I am the lucky purchaser of a Sigma 41 called Sarah Mercedes. Bought her in October and have sailed about 2000 miles since. Great boat. A question I would like to ask is what exactly do the running back stays do. Are they additional support for the mast, are they to tension the forestay, are they to bend the mast, are they for when flying a spinnaker or just to get in the way when tacking and gybing. Thanks
The running backstays are the main support for the mast the backstay is mainly used for tensioning the forestay and bending the mast although in the Sigma the backstay will take a gybe on it's own. Apart from that they sure get in the road. Jim 
I have test report in which David Thomas explains that the rig is designed to stand and be used in the same way as the 33, and that the runners are there to tension the forestay - mainly for racing. Roger
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Edited by Sarah Mercedes 12 April 2009, 8:53 AM
