Premature Timing Belt Failure on Ford Diesel
Messages 1 to 20 of 26.
Amazingly I checked the valve clearances and found them to be OK. This was a good enough hint that all was well for me to replace the belts (£72 from Ford!) on that engine. It has done several hundred miles and seems OK. Has anybody else heard of premature failure on these engines? The AA man reckoned he personally recovered 4 a month on average. Due to the tenuous nature of the arrangement I went for the genuine parts. Is the current Ford kit the answer or will I have to keep checking the belts for signs of deterioration?
Discussion Archived
Sorry to sound like a kill-joy but as far as I know, the Ford 1.8D is very prone to cam belt failure and 99/100 this means major engine damage. You were very lucky! Every mechanic I know (if they have to run a vehicle with one of these engines) changes the belt every 10,000 miles. Ric
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
I know the belts have been upgraded (there are 2, one for the pump and one for the cam) but I don't know how much better they are.
Discussion Archived
Glen
Discussion Archived
belts, tensioners, a new idler, all bolts and comprehensive instructions at a cost of £72. Not cheap but quite a lot in the kit. I am assuming (perhaps naively) that the Ford kit will be good quality. I realise I am very lucky (2000 The old belt had no visible name
Discussion Archived
I have encountered a re-occuring problem that the shims on the crank and the shims on the cam wear very quickly if the belt is not tensioned correctly. To ensure the correct tension, do as follows. Not very ethical but it definatley works. Remove the cam belt cover and the plugs, make sure the gear is in neutral and where the first tooth is about to hit the cog on the cam shaft, place a dril bit (1/8th) between the belt and the cog, turn the engine slowley so the bit catches between the belt and cog using a socket and ratchet,if the bit continues to rotate round the cam with the bit, the belt is too loose. Remove the bit and tension the belt some more, when the tension is right, it will feel like the belt will snap if you force the cam any further. If you do this right, you will get the recommended 45,000 miles from the belt.
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
As far as I can tell you should be fine if you use good quality parts. The best way to do this is to buy the Ford kit at circa £72. If you get a dealer to fit it there should be a warranty. I did it myself, following the comprehensive instructions that Ford give you. The Haynes manual tells you how to make the timing tools (2 6mm drills and a cut down M10 bolt). Basically, if you don't know when your belts were last changed or have doubts about the quality of the work/ parts then you should get it checked out. That seems to be the engine's only real weakness. I still have the scars and the debts from trying to run a Peugeot Diesel so I am quite happy to change belts more often than normal on my Ford!
Discussion Archived
Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
What you say about Ford doesn't surprise me in the least. I am also old enough to remember that Ford were the first to leave out the gearbox and back axle drain plug (we sell more gearboxes that way) when everyone else was changing these oils at 10,000miles, Ford were the first to leave out grease nipples so instead of buying 3p of grease you had to pay £15 for a new track rod end, Ford were the first manufacturer who would not sell you a new 35p carb jet - "no Sir, you have to buy a new £75 carburettor", Ford were the ones who made gearstick levers which came out in your hands (Mk1 Escorts, Cortinas etc) and "no Sir we won't sell you the stupid plastic 50p nut which holds it in, you have to buy a £27 gear stick", Ford were the first manufacturer to refuse to sell you a rear light lens - no, you had to buy a complete light. ford will be the first to sell you a car with a welded down bonnet. Except it wont be welded down cos you have to have metal in order to weld, theirs will be plastic and it will be glued down. PS anyone remember the Official Ford Marketing rep on Telly commenting on Sierra floors cracking up when customers fitted towbars? Quote "If people want to tow caravans they should use tractors". So, the Official verdict on Ford's ability to tow is that they can't. Get a Mercedes. Instead of cam belts they use duplex chains. Mine has been in for 180,000 miles, no attention and no bother. The are Far Far cheaper than Fords to run, and Guess which one is nicer to drive? Sample spare part price, Genuine Mercedes - rear brake disk, which incidentally has an integral drum for the parking brake - £13+ VAT. Ford? My guess would be around the £60 mark.
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
My reason is not parts cost (I still perceive German parts to cost more, though I am prepared to believe I am wrong) or reliability but RUST! My Escort, at 6 1/2 years old is well on its way to developing cosmetic and structural rust. The battery tray is non existent, therefore it lets in gallons of water. It is a little galling to pay £1000 on top of my Escort for an older car but I have to tell myself I am buying many more years of use. Even up here in Scotland there are several A, B & C plate AUDIs going around with no rust apparent. I have just about decided to go for a mid 90s AUDI 80TDi Estate, with a VW Pasaat or Skoda also on the list depending on what cars and how much cash are available at the time. I moved to Ford because I was so impressed how much better a £75 Sierra (bought under protest in an emergency) was than the moneypit Peugeot that it replaced (the cause of the emergency). I still bear the scars from one of the Pug's many cooling system failures. All the Fords I have had since have beaten the Peugeots (I had more than 1, I'm a slow learner) on every count except rust resistance.
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
If you get a main dealer belt, which I strongly advise you to do, you get full instructions with it. £72 seems like a lot but you get 2 belts, tensoners, idlers and full instructions. Mine failed due to having a cheapo belt fitted (before I bought the car, my genuine belts are still fine 20000 miles on). If you want I can scan in the Haynes and Ford instructions and email them to you.
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
Discussion Archived
Mark.
Discussion Archived
Messages 1 to 20 of 26.
Important NoteAll messages are submitted by visitors to this web site, and represent their own personal opinion. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of Preloved. You use this information at your own risk. Preloved can not be held responsible for any damages or loss resulting from the use of this site. Please see our Terms and Conditions for more details. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Not a member yet?Why not join the fun for free! Members can sell their stuff completely free of charge, have searches prioritised for their local area, and lots more. Join for free | Member Log In |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||





