Vauxhall Omega estate
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if u cant solder then just pack the battery well with card/tissue and resync the fob as described above, they should work ok then. in some cases the contact break is too bad and a new fob is req. tho
plug under car on side of box. top up with atf till it starts to overflow and that should cure problem. Mine had leaky gaskets (2) on auto box sumps cheap as chips to replace
Susan
just to add to Fred's post on low auto box oil, the car must be level at normal opperating temp and running (in park) to get the correct level for topping up.
after 2 winters freezing my bits off, I wasn't going to be beaten by this, but believe me, this was a real pig to do. I dont know if the newer omegas are any different but looking at my R reg deisel I dont think so. It took me all one Xmas holiday 4 days if I remember right. 1st check your thermastat is working right, usually if the gauge is where you would expect it, then that indicates it's ok. If the car is blowing cold air I doubt if the direction control flaps are at fault (their air controled) via the rotary switch. I cant remember exactly where the water control valve is but it shows you in the book if I remember correctly, so check that out next. Then disconnect the pipes that go to the matrix ( from inside the engine bay, right at the top back of the engine just behind the cylender head area) the pipes are a sod to get off and no room to do it) and flush the heating system, Mine was blocked, so I only got a trickle comming out, you coud try some rad flush and clear out the matrix, and if you can fix a pump so that it just pumps round and round the matrix only, I used a cenral heating pump and left it running for a couple of hours, but it was getting hot through lack of circulation so had to stop it. Mine was matrix was blocked so I had to take it out, the box is infront of the gear stick, if you take out the radio you can just see it. now the fun starts! In order to get the matrix out, you'll have to get yourself a workshop manual, as this is so complicated you'll finish up with a pile of bits( mark them up as you take them out and mark where they came from), as steering wheel has to come off then the complete bulkhead covering switches, dials,airbags, glovebox, and everything in front of the facia. you'll have to disconnect the hoses just as they go through the bulkhead, and as I said earlier that is a task and a half on its own. When you get the matrix out be careful not to dammage the ally tubing by poking a rod down the hole as the bends are paper thin so be warned. I managed to clear mine out and put it all back together and it worked pefectly for the rest of it's life. If I was going to do it again I'd carefully cut the facia above the transmission tunnel round the the area of the ash tray, back towards to the bulk head, and get at it like that, then stitch the facia back on afterwards. Good luck........ Alan
Thanks.
Do you know where I can get a Haynes Manual. Can't find one via normal channels. Have a V6 2.6 Elite. Thanks Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
A CD version is on ebay, there are copies of up to 2002 of all Vauxhalls available for about £5 for a 2 CD set. It says it includes 2.2 petrol and deisel as well as 2.6 and 3.2 omegas Alan
You might be lucky and be able to pump the juice round, but if your not you will have to take out the pump, which is easy enough, but get yourself a book to show you. The pump is sunk into the tank, the system is presurised at about 40psi so if you get a leak the tank soon empties. there is a filter on the pick up, this may be the place for you to start. Alan
next You could try bleeding the fuel lines, the electric pump will soon fill the lines if you find the right place to do it, it's at the back of the engine near the "E" of the ECO TEC printing. Remember if you do this the ignition will be live, but don't turn the engine over, when the petrol starts to flow through the bleed point it will gush all over, so be prepaired. Alan
I hava a 2,5td -98, automatic. Been happy with it thus far. However, now that first morning chills have come over (-/+0C) the car has started to acting up seriously. It's very unstable at idel runing, getting shutoff randomly. Almost like it's short on air/fuel mix. As soon as I get it moving the there is no worries. But it does come back as soon as I hit a redlight and need to stop (ie. put it in neutral). A pain in city traffic! Tonight it was terrible, as soon as had to put it neutral the stuttering began and quite a few restarts. An other possible symptom is that it is really cool now. Temp needel isn't going much past first marker. Given it pretty steady oil and oil filter changes about 10k km apart. Make some 40t km/year. The expected turbo whine has made it self aware. I just can't see it being the issue right now. Tho there is a fair amount of accumalate on the hozes running from the airbox all the way to the turbine. Link to picture: http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c247/tel......ering_Omega.jpg My usual mechanic was mistified, hence me posting here. There was an idea floated that there might be a sensor that is faulty. DIY remedies that are happening tomorrow are (need to have these done for the winter in any case):
I mean do I need to get under the car or...?
I thought it was an inline (aluminium cased) fuel filter fitted in a cage on the under side of the body Regards Les
Messages 1361 to 1380 of 1413. « Previous 1 ... 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 Next »
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Edited by Les 1 November 2008, 8:36 AM
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