Vauxhall Omega estate
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I've missed the hot starting problems on 2.5TD, but would like to make the following comments. 1. If the engine starts from cold, then all engine mechanics and timing etc can be disregarded. 2. If engine runs perfectly ok hot before the ignition key is turned off, then the mechanics of the injector pump can be discounted as the problem. This leaves the electronics of the fly-by-wire system probably at fault. As the problem is temperaure related, then fault could be best of luck Tonyh (thats if you still have the car!)
Including headlights. Good luck. Ade $
The battery is fine, and the engine is turning over but is just not starting. There is sparks to the plugs and fuel in the tank. Any suggestions as to where to start would be appreciated. The car has done 110k. Could it be the ecu? I made the gig on time in a friends Vectra!
Yes the projectocr lamps (clear lens) type should fit I have seen these fitted to pre-98 cars and have H4 bulbs fitted, (i would recommend Phillips Vision plus bulbs as an up-grade, as i did this to my previous omega) . Xenon type bulbs are available on the market, but you won't be able to fit the types fitted as standard on higher spec omegas , as mentioned by others the wiring loom's different along with many other changes, & these bulbs are at least £60 ea!! not 2 for £20 quid.
As the Estate owners seem to be avid enthusiasts !! I'm having problems with a "T"reg Omega Estate CDX electronic climate control system. Firstly, the compressor and refrigeration system is all OK. This is a heating distribution problem. The passenger side of the car has independant temp control. However only cold air is available on the passenger side of the car. Great in the summer ! This means I get cold air at the screen, which does not de-mist the screen, cold air from the dash vents and also on the passengers feet regardless of the selected temperature. This problem remains in "Auto" mode or "Eco" mode. The drivers half of the car, plus the rear air vents all work fine. As the local dealer says it is 5 hours work (over £300) just to pull the dash apart, plus any repair and replacement work on top, it's a repair I cannot afford. Any alternative ideas or suggestions very welcome as it's cold up here in Glasgow ! Simon
Try re synchronizing the flaps servomotors ... With the ignition on press the AUTO & OFF buttons simultaneously for about 5 seconds!! Mike (Walsall)
Many thanks for the info.......sadly no change.....any other ideas welcome. Cheers, Simon
Have you thought of getting the 'official' VAUXHALL & OPEL SERVICE TIS WORKSHOP MANUAL CD 2004 that the actual Vauxhall dealers use on CDs?? The CDs are always listed on eBay and contain all the workshop manuals/parts books even the labour time the dealers should use to cost out the final invoice!! I have a set of the discs,and have found them invaluable for info on my '99 CDX 2.5 TD as Haynes do not do a 'book' covering the Omega with the BMW Diesel engine!! This is one seller on eBay cut and paste 7944603679 in eBays search box or simpley type in Vauxhall TIS!! Good Luck Mike (Walsall) Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Had no idea this Vauxhall stuff would be available to Joe Public ! Many thanks, just bought a copy as it's cheaper than a Haynes manual. Fingers crossed I can find a problem that can be fixed easily and cheaply. All the best, Simon
Had no idea this Vauxhall stuff would be available to Joe Public ! Many thanks, just bought a copy as it's cheaper than a Haynes manual. Fingers crossed I can find a problem that can be fixed easily and cheaply. All the best, Simon
I have had the same in my car on the driverside with freezing feet, it was a control rod which connects to a flap that had come off, its approx level with the clutch pedal tucked just behind the carpet and a bit awkward to get on, as yours is the other side it may be easier to view, prehaps remove the glove box. I found it by running the engine (because its vacum operated) and the jamming my head with a mirror beside the pedal and as i pressed the buttons on the control panel i could see the rod moving up and down but the flap was stationary, and i could see it had come off, hope this helps , all the best.
as you have 2.5td also, have you looked at dieselcar.com, go to "forum" select GM/vaux/opel/saab, then select "2.5td inj pump", and scroll to the last one and try and read it ! at the bottom there is a link for more engine info, its the Range Rover version, but very similar, at least its more bed time reading! cheers
Thanks for the info ,I will follow it through a little later!! I find the omega_owners Yahoo site realy good, (although I HATE Yahoo sites , I think there layouts are crap!!) The Range Rover / BMW engine is on the files section in PDF format along with a load of other usefull info!! Mike (Walsall)
Anybody know if settings can be altered on Auto box on my 99 3.0 Elite it always seems to be in 2nd or 3rd whenever their is the slightest load other than cruising on the flat! Or could it be oil or filters in the box - there isn't even a hint of an oil leak. The car has done 108k & been serviced regularily. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Yes !! the ecu bios controling the gearbox can be 'flashed' with the later upgrade codes, Don't know how much difference it makes though! My '99 2.5 CDX Turbo diesel has exactley the same symptoms as yours I origionaly put it down to the different tourque charateristics of the Diesel engine compared to petrol, However there was discussions on the omega_owners Yahoo site before Christmas.and at the pre Christmas get together at the Knutsford services (on the M6 motorway) one of the wizz kid techies (Dr Omega) took his laptop and Tech 2 gear and upgraded the Bios (free of charge)!! For gearboxes, cruise controls etc; for several guys!! Mike (Walsall)
The changing of the trans fluid is within average the DIY job, I have always done 99.5% of my own repairs and sevicing (for over 40 years) but I was a bit perplexed in how to refill the auto box as there is no dip stick / filler tube, so I called into a local Autobox specialist,(on the A5 / M6 TOll junction at Cannock) who drained the fluid ,removed both 'sumps' from the box degreased /cleaned them, cleaned around all the mounting flanges,valve blocks etc; with brake cleaner,reset rear brake band,replaced large sump filter,both sump gaskets,refilled with Dexion 111 (never noticed a 'G' on the bulk fluid container though!)all whilst I watched him at work,Total charge, including the roadtesting was £65, which, being able to watch, and pick his brains, (or the offer of a loan car if I had wished to leave my Omega and return later) I think was exxellent value! Mike (Walsall)
Many thanks, if it stops raining long enough, I'll be out with a torch and mirror. Simon
Thanks for the reply, I'll get in touch with a garage freind and see about getting the ECU checked and upgraded/flashed. Regards Alan (Newcastle)
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