Vauxhall Omega estate
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And how do I check and top up my auto gearbox ? I also have the management light stay on after starting sometimes, it will go out when driving when I turn the ignition off the back on again, any thoughts?
Thanks John
I have an "N" reg omega 2.5td GLS estate. its done just ove 204000 miles!!!. i have had it since summer 1996, absolutely no problem at all, ive only ever changed the radiator twice(first 1one lasted for ages but the second one was a cheap brand so i replaced it again but with a proper branded one ) exhaust /starter motor/ and that its. service every 4000-5000m only oil, oil filter. the car has been to europe 3 times and i use it for business so i do about 500-700miles a week some times. never let me down. 1 break down because of the fuel filter getting dirty so dont drive it on its last bit fuel. Other wise never let me down , very quick on motorways very quite and pretty good on fuel but its BM engine. And this engine is very very heavy compared to other diesel engines but u can tell the difference between this engine and vauxhall diesel engine. This Engine is pure quality. My advice to any owners of it is that service it every 4000miles-5000miles just oil, filters its cost about £25 or do it yourself and u will have no problems oh and put some of that REDEX diesel cleaner in occaisonally.
I have just found a contact who can supply Fuel Temperature Sensors for the Fuel Injection Pump on the 2.5 TD. The part number is 2464509015 The Company is TT Automotive in Loughborough Telephone Number 01509216665 And the part costs just under £6 Hope it helps everyone who is experiencing the same problems. John
engine stuttered then i looked down onto dash rev counter needle resting at zero then the engine light with the lightning strike came on i pulled over and tried to strart it it started with the rev counter needle still at zero but idled to high left well alone had it towed back home HELP
It seems to get in via the air vent at the windscreen end of the bonnet. Under this vent is some sound deadening foam which collects the water and presumably releases it eventually. It's difficult to see how it gets into the spark plug well because all the spark plugs are covered by a plastic cover, which is bolted on. There's usually no sign of water on lifting this. One has to pull off the plug lead for evidence of the water. The problem only occurs in heavy rain, when the vehicle has been stood. E.g Overnight or in a car park at work. Any body got any ideas?
I know of a low cost technique, which is as good as, if not better than welding and is a simple, quick, permanent d.i.y. solutions. Added to that there is no danger of it distorting your sump around the seals, which is a risk of welding because of the heat applied. If you have the original sump bolt and the hole is not much bigger than the sump bolt you can use that. If the hole is much bigger than the sump bolt you'd be better off with a bigger sump bolt, although it needs to be slightly smaller than the hole. Buy some polymer type metal paste from Halfords or other motor accessory shop. One of the best products is made by Belzona and it's called Super Metal although this is not normally sold in small quantities for a one off job. I think Locktite make a suitable product. It is a 2 part product and sets within 5 minutes of being mixed, so you need to get all your preparation done before mixing it. First of all, thoroughly degrease the sump area around the hole using MEK or some other solvent. You need to do this inside the hole as well as where the thread was. This area needs to be perfectly clean and dry for the polymeric metal paste to bond to it. Clean the bolt or sump plug and brush a thin coating of oil into the thread of the bolt and all over it. If the thread is damaged, use a new bolt or sump plug. Spray on wax polish is also a good idea for this. Mix a quantity of the metal paste and brush some of it well into the thread of the bolt or sump plug over the thin oil surface. Also put a liberal quantity into the hole working it well into and over the inside edges of the hole. Do this quickly so the paste doesn't set. Now insert the bolt or sump plug. Clean of any excess paste and leave it for an hour. Don't touch it or be tempted to fiddle with it. The paste will set as hard as steel. The paste on the inside of the hole will bond with the sump and with the paste on the bolt or plug. The oil you brushed into the thread of the bolt will prevent the paste from bonding to the bolt and form a permanent lock tight thread. Once it's thoroughly set, but not before you should be able to unscrew the sump bolt if you want to and tighten it up again. You have now solved your problem. Best of luck Pete Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
The older one 94M bought at 40k now185k Had autobox, injection pump,rad replaced by main dealer under warranty after that no prob except another autobox at 170k (water ingress from broken vent pipe.But now suffers from no hot styart so is semi retired .Present car 95m elite td auto wagon immaculate £1200 160k fingers crossed. But the mpg you claim is amazing is that brim to brim. the computer is hopeless best I ever managed was 520 on a tank (no city driving not over 80)
cheers
thanks dave
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Edited by narkdup 25 May 2005, 4:03 PM
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