Vauxhall Omega estate
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Has anyone confirmed if this engine has a chain driven cambelt? Any info greatly appreciated
that sometimes needs replacing due to wear
I just bought a 4 year old 3.2 elite. It seems Haynes have no plans to publish a manual for this model, so i'd be interested to know if other suitable manuals/Cds are available. Do you have a reference to ebay? Jim
Would like advice on major things to look for before buying; from reading it would seem the following need to be looked out for: Can anybody add anything else important to look out for or give advice on the above? Am not averse to DIY oil changes but would not feel confident in servicing brakes, suspension etc! Am looking for a 4-5 year old with less than 80k so as to make it worthwhile doing the LPG conversion! Many Thanks, Colin (newbie!)
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WHY DOSE THIS HAPPEN AND HOW DO I FIX IT?
Cambelt change very important. Big dough if it goes. Don't push it beyond 80k suggest 60k for peace of mind. Quad cam (Ferrari style) but not as difficult as it sounds. Everything done from front of engine but always change all pulleys etc along with belt. Can get kit for around £120. Expensive for genuine Vaux dealer supply and fit. Choose someone who knows a bit about vauxhalls. Incidentally if anyone in Birmingham area is interested ... I know a great ex Vauxhall mobile mechanic. Takes on all makes but Vauxhalls are his speciality -- Knows all models inside out. If you struggling for home servicing/mechanicing/MOT etc he is your man. Contact me if u r interested. Knocking from front suspension - Likely to be wishbone or anti-roll bar drop links. Wishbones pivot on 2 metalastic bushes (rubber with metal sleeve) bolted to body 1 horizontal, 1 vertical. They wear and make thud over bumps. The wear is difficult to detect even with crow bar between wishbone and body. Another culprit is balljoint on wishbone which connects to bottom of strut. Easier to check for. I have just replaced my bottom arms complete
. see Les post 20 back or so .. great advice. Cracked exhaust manifold - I'll ask my tame Vauxhall guru on occurrence, detection, remedy, price and job difficulty Auto box/ecu behaving correctly from experience they can be a law unto themselves if u r unlucky. Ecu electronically controlled spool valves cry out for good fluid quality, adequate filtering and effective pump operation. There are a host of sensors, the ecu, connector and can bus faults that can plague you before you even get to internal mechanical and torque converter problems. Oil level is critical and on all but early models is a pain to check with level plug under car. Make sure car is level and fill to spill out. Can be expensive to diagnose problems need Vauxhall Tech 1- 2 diagnostic gear for full interrogation. I would like to know more about Auto boxes. have '97 2.5 v6 Auto CDX and it is late to change into 4th and hunts too much between 4th and 3rd at motorway speeds. I tow 1500kg caravan and when in 4th can only get the thing to accelerate with kick down and 4000+ rpm. I know max torque is around this figure and rather peaky but I am disappointed with towing 50 - 60 mph as there is no acceleration in 4th. It just sits there despite pushing gas pedal until kickdown, then whoosh. Thats about it.. Sorry for long post but hopes it helps some. Let me know how the LPG convert goes, where you get it done, ££££, tank location, fuel consumption etc REMINDER: Info/experiences with Auto Boxes much appreciated. Cheers crispy
Long brake pedal. Bypass ABS/Traction HCU and any load/pressure conscious valves and retest pedal travel Stick short closed end pipes on Mcyl ports, bleed and see what pedal is like. Should be rock solid. Any other suggestions eg bleed sequence/vehicle angle/pressure bleed? What do other Auto (and Manual) owners think of their pedal feel in vehicles with ABS and TC?? Regards crispy
I tow an 1800kg caravan with my 3.0. I have the same sort of problem with the auto box with it not making up its mind what gear to be in. When this happens I just leave it in 3 until i'm on the level and then reselect D. The ratio between 3 & 4 appears to be to great for progressive towing. It's a shame GM never kept with the times and upgraded to 5 sp auto's. Doug
Thanks for feedback. Thanks again crispy
I've been in touch with a company called Powerflex. They specialise in polyurathane suspension bushes. They tell me that they are currently developing bushes for the Omega front suspension and anti-roll bar. They would hope to have them on the market September or October. It may be worthwhile getting your auto box serviced at a transmission specialist. They'll clean the filters and change the fluid and add additives. I wish I'd done it before I spread my box all over the M4. Doug
I know from the temp sensor change that any air in the FIP will prevent the car from starting, had to bleed the FIP after fitting the temp sensor, even the RAC couldn't get it started until it was fully bled. Any Advise anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated as I getting ready to tourch this car, went out with friends recently. had to ask a shop keeper for a bucket or two of water before I could get it to start. Thanks
Read yer chat on the Cambelt - would ask for comment on the following:- MV6 - 3.0 litre Have got Vauxhall's V6 engine (and Haynes) manuals on this engine. Haynes manual gives a procedure to replace Cambelt (& idlers), but then states to have a Vauxhall garage to set exact timing alignment. Vauxhall's own engine manual (bought off ebay), covering both 2.5 & 3.0 engines states in BOLD text NOT to use the marks on the engine itself when setting up timing position/tension of belt (it implies that these marks are ONLY for ensuring that belt is fitted correctly). It then states to use the Cambelt kit - and specifically a tool that fits over both sets of cams (one gauge for both sets of cams) in order to set up timing (and tension), as the cambelt has two eccentric 'coil-type' sprung ilders, which have be adjusted incrementaly to set the correct timing, and tension. I have deduced that the main reason for two tensioners is to ensure that that the timing of both sets of cams remains accurate related to the crank, as the belt stretches. Also both of these idlers have to be relaxed in order to allow the belt to fit over the idler pulleywheel flanges when fitting. So good so far?? Bloke at Mainline Vauxhall dealer says only have to align marks on belt with marks on engine heads - done loads of them!! (also worth noting that none of the Vauxhall dealers seem to hold this kit in any regard) - at least not to stock or use it. QUESTION 1 Do I ignore Vauxhall's own engine manual (& Haynes) & presume that the dealers know better? - or confine myself further to the belief that the dealers can't even be bothered to invest in the right equipment, and therefore are not much more technically competent than yer local mechanic somewhere in darkest Africa!! QUESTION 2 Can anyone enlighten me as to the correct method for this (any hints welcome) p.s. Anyone with a pre2000 Omega alarm siren (silicone sealed type). - If working - do yerself a favour and remove it and seal it a bit more. Make a water deflector (Pepsi/Coke or Tango) neck of bottle, cut up to fit. REASON:- Even though there's ACRES of space in the cavity - the designers thought it a great idea to place the connector socket and the rear of the siren unit (which does not keep its seal properly) directly underneath the scuttle plate water drain hose). There are two types of Alarm Siren unit - pre 2000 uses this rather poor 'GM' unit - post 2000 uses one made by Bosch, which is better sealed (hermetically). 'GM' - over £100 / Bosch about £45. I believe you can use the Bosch one instead - although wait for it - the 'newer' one works in My 'S' 1999 V6 - but NOT in the wifeys 'W' 2000 (both older style), so you might be on a 50/50, until I try again and reconfirm. Will keep you posted. Andy
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Edited by brian1st 14 August 2005, 5:47 PM
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