Vauxhall Omega estate
Messages 561 to 580 of 1412. « Previous 1 ... 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 ... 71 Next »
Many Thanks Rex
Ref:-Alarm Siren unit This unit is used in conjunction with the alarm module - it is the one that goes off when it detects the battery as being disconnected. The GM unit has poor sealing and I reckon it fails because the water ingresses into the unit unit - silcone sealant works both ways!!. The other unit which is far better sealed fails due to the two nicad batteries creating so much heat that (in the case of the failed unit I got from a dealer) it had 'eaten' away at one of the pcb copper tracks - and the battery solder pads had gotten very dry joints. Was not easy to repair as battery legs were hard to desolder). I repaired this unit by hacksawing the case, making the repair (remounted the battery contact legs so the batteries now have an airgap between battery body and pcb), hey presto! this unit now appears to work fine in my 1999 MV6, which has suffered years of intermittent alarm activation (read all the previous postings from both me and others). Only thing is - it doesn't seem to activate properly in my missus' MV6 which has exactly the same unit as mine had - even though hers is a pre-facelift (same as mine) also. Anyway - took hers out and cleaned and added more silicone sealant (and formed a water cover form a Coke bottle to deflect the water from the drainpipe), and replaced. I will try my repaired one again in it sometime just to satisfy my confusion as to why it works in one and not the other, as both cars are effectively same model type. Also as the Bosch unit appears better sealed (albeit it does also fail due to the battery issue - but at least can be repaired/modified as described). I don't think this is to rectify the problem that you have, but just the intermittent alarm activation (particularly when the sun comes out to play). Would still appreciate any postings on the cambelt issue. Andy
Jim
Hi Andy, Thanks for the reply regard the siren, I will "have a go " and will leave it for a weeks then let you know how I got on. Sorry I can't help with the cambelt as I have the 2.5 TD which has the chain drive. The only one I have changed was a 1.9TDI Audi cambelt, I took the advise of Haynes and re-newed all the bits involved with the belt.worked OK Regards Rex
I have a 2.5TD and it is chain driven, but it also has a drive belt that would need replacing after so many thousand miles Cheers Rich
Only one other thing I want to check before buying - what's the maximum roof load for the Omega est (on the rails)? Reason being that most of my mileage is done with 3-4 kayaks on the roof (weighing 50-75kg total); one of the main reasons for changing from my current Megane - I've dented the roof where the bars sit despite Renault's claim of a 75kg load capacity! Thanks, Colin
Max weight for factory fitted roof rails is 100kg cheers
I think they are around £85 plus vat, I had the same problem and noticed it was worse the hotter (weather and long run) it was, being a tight arse i just changed the power steering oil a couple of times (run it for a few days before changing again)so it was nice and clear, and now I rarely notice the extra drag only if its a very tight spot and you are stationary going from lock to lock on a very hot day does it feel to be dragging it feet. regards Les ps if it has 16" 225 the effecting drag is extenuated Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
I am new to this site, but have a Omega 2.5TD, I work for a BMW agency so have experience on this engine. My car has 37K on the clock (2 owners), service must be 4K max and a semi synthetic oil used never straight mineral (unless your engine is already tired), use of fully synthetic oil in in high mileage BMW diesel will burn it in the turbo as the seal can not cope with the thin oil at high temp, high mileage engine better off with 15w/40 semi synthetic, low mileage (under 100K) 10w/40. If I can help anyone please E-mail and ask. Regards "A".
I have a 95 unit and have been having some serious difficulties trying get my motor to start especially when it's hot. It's got to the point that when the engines hot I have to pour 2-3 buckets of water over it before it will re-start. It starts from cold ok. I have tried changing the FIP temperature gauge, I have fitted new glow plugs but it still has problems. the hotter the outside temp, or the hotter the engine has been before switching off the more difficult it is to re-start. Thanks John
it is correct ,i got a 97 R reg omega 2.5 petrol auto and it states it clearly in the car book. if you drive from cold it would rev higher before changing.---after a few minutes it reverts to normal changing. Koby
as you work for a bmw agency can you tell me when the 2.5td desiel (like is in the omega) changed to the 2.5d that BMW are currently using. regards Les
Just found this excellent resource following a problem with my 1997 Omega Elite Estate 2.5d. The air-con suddenly stopped working and a tinkling sound started from the engine bay. On inspection the fan belt that drives the compressor has been shredded enough (although not snapped) to drop off the pulley. I also found resting near the fan blade (the cause of the tinkle) and removed, a circular component which looks like some sort of balance weight held to where it came from by a screw and washer in the middle (i'm guessing). It bears the following text and numbers: GM 90 564 976 The car is running ok (albeit without air-con) Any ideas what this component does? I will have to get the belt replaced and this re-fitted when I get the chance but I am trying to see if I could avoid a main dealer's prices. I have photos of this here: http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoView.jsp?U......id=837221882106 and here: http://www.kodakgallery.com/PhotoView.jsp?c......y=1125991592649 Thanks in advance for any help you can provide to solve this 'mystery'. Andy
Andy
you are looking at the cluch component of you air conditioning unit, hopefuly it may just have worked loose, check electric connections are not damaged and re-assemble (try to get hold of drawing to confirm no lost parts), you can pick up a new belt from your local Motor factors, they may have to order it for you. regards Les
I would love to fix this myself if possible but there is very little room to work without removing the radiator as far as I can see. I have the Haynes manual for the petrol models but I haven't found it to be much help - for anything really! Is it just me or are the photos in Haynes really that bad? I'll bet the local garage won't have a spare nut for the clutch any way. They will probably want to sell me a new compressor for megabucks! Anyone know where to get a proper workshop manual for the diesel models? Cheers! Andy
what are you trying to fix that involves removing the Radiator Yours Rich
Messages 561 to 580 of 1412. « Previous 1 ... 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 ... 71 Next »
Important NoteAll messages are submitted by visitors to this web site, and represent their own personal opinion. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of Preloved. You use this information at your own risk. Preloved can not be held responsible for any damages or loss resulting from the use of this site. Please see our Terms and Conditions for more details. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Not a member yet?Why not join the fun for free! Members can sell their stuff completely free of charge, have searches prioritised for their local area, and lots more. Join for free | Member Log In
Are you a fan of Preloved?
If so, why not help us spread the Joy of Second Hand by joining us on Facebook. [more...] |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Edited by Sunbeam 3 September 2005, 1:03 AM
More discussion in