Chip Fat!
Messages 1 to 3 of 3.
Have thought about making bio for a while,but as yet haven't. I have spoken to a few local guys about it, they all seem to disagree what engine is the best to go for! thought id maybe get a wider opinion!
The general consensus and my humble opinion is that the traditional diesels are better for this than the common rail versions. Also you cant just pour it into your tank neat and do no mods it's too thick and gloopy and will cause the car to break down. Ideally it should go through a heating element to thin the veggie oil down or it will just choke up the fuel lines and the pump by waxing everything up or possible even damage the pump. If your talking about using used chippie oil then there's certain procedures you have to do as it's trickier but possible. Obviously all the sediment (food particles etc)has to be allowed to settle in the containers. Then the remaing say... 70-80% has to be filtered and can then be used. You will obviously be left with a certain amount of sludge (glycerin) to dispose off or recycle as well. There's no special tools needed to do all this but I would sggest doing a bit of reading up before going the used oil route. The easy fix here is to simply use a 50-50 mix of standard diesel and veggie oil for the warmer weather and reduce the veggie oil content in winter this is the spend no money on mods option and is at your own risk of course. ___________________ THERE'S NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT !
I've been running my Rover 418 td estate on waste veg oil (WVO) for over a year now. Up until recently I have been going down the filtration route, simply put, I first pour from the cubie into a 45 gallon settling drum, leave to settle for about 3 weeks. I then pump from there into a filtration drum, this is simply an open topped 45 gallon drum with gravity fed 5 micron filter socks suspended above it. (ensuring that the pump does not go into the sludge) From there the oil is pumped into a converted immersion heater and heated to 60 deg for about 30 minutes, this part is quite important as the heating not only releases the tiny particles of food / flour from suspension in the oil, It also releases the water molecules that have been added by cooking frozen food. I now leave the oil in the immersion heater to cool, once cooled the oil will float above the water and debris. I have fitted a tap at the bottom of the heater so its quite simple to drain off the water and simply turn off the tap when the water turns to oil. The last stage is simply to pump the oil through a 1 micron filter and hey presto, fuel at around 10p per Ltr. As was rightly said previously said, in the winter even heated / filtered oil will thicken up so I'm now going to go down the bio-diesel route, much more complicated and difficult but i'm damned if i'm going to bow to their hiway robbery by having to put up to 70% pump price diesel in my car, no chance. Engines dont really matter too much unless you have a very modern car you should be ok. I have heard it said that some lucas injector pumps can be a problem though have not experienced this myself. I have used this fuel in rover, peugeot, pajero and ford transit engines without any problem. that said, don't take my word for it, I can only say how it worked for me.
Messages 1 to 3 of 3.
Important NoteAll messages are submitted by visitors to this web site, and represent their own personal opinion. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of Preloved. You use this information at your own risk. Preloved can not be held responsible for any damages or loss resulting from the use of this site. Please see our Terms and Conditions for more details. |
|||||||||||||
Not a member yet?Why not join the fun for free! Members can sell their stuff completely free of charge, have searches prioritised for their local area, and lots more. Join for free | Member Log In |
|||||||||||||
|
Edited by L.B. 17 June 2008, 10:31 PM
More discussion in