Peugeot 306 locking
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I too have a Pug 306 XS '96 -red-3 door. I spent along time studying the wire diagrams and locking devices only a couple of weeks ago. If you like you can email me, and i will give you my mobile number, and i can talk you through it. Would take a while on here, and im not at home, so using someone elses computer. But email me at [Log in to view email] and i will let you have my phone number. I'm pretty sure i can help! Neil
Can you please expand on where the broken wires are. Are they in the door panel or under bonnet?
You can buy a new cable loom assy to fit but it means taking the door off to do a good job as it's a bit fiddly etc. Taking the door off is not too difficult and the job is tiresome but not impossible. Just depends if you consider it worth it? Your call. We have just taken the fuse out and use the old fashioned method of using a key! LOL Good luck
I was really pleased to read the comments from Solara on how to bypass the door locking check system by placing a wire between cable M623 and cable 6293 . The Haynes manual does not give the complete wiring diagram, most probably due to security issues, so it is not possible to identify the door lock check circuit and my guess is that Solara got lucky and his fix solved a problem with just one door lock, at least that’s my guess as it does not work for me I have searched just about every forum on the net but always find Solara’s solution, does anyone have a complete wiring diagram or know the correct cables to short circuit to bypass the door locking check system or have any ideas on this subject ?
Once you have done this, you can trick the circuit into looking at the passenger door or driver door, depending on which door has the knackard switch. Us ethe haynes manual to locate the wire numbers to each door, then simply short across the relavent wires untill the locks stay down. In my situation i hadto make the circuit look at the passeneger door because my driver door switch is broken. Neil
This may not necessarily be the fault of a lock, but could be caused by one of the internal lock levers or connecting rods in the door mechanism "holding off" the lock. A badly adjusted keeper (the bar that the lock pawl closes around - the bit that you see on the door pillar) could be too far into the door-well and the lock isn't fully engaging. Don't forget to check the tailgate/boot lock as well.
i'm a peugeot machanic been doing it for the last 4 yr's the problem with your central locking is the wiring loom from the door piller to door they break with the door being opened and closed all the time mainly driver's door but i have known it on the passenger side.best thing to do take door off,and split the rubber casing your find a couple of wires broke you may be able to rejoin them,but if thers to many you need to buy a replacement loom from the main dealers at about £41.00 + vat. warning they are not colour coded or numbered you have to do a continuity test on each wire to socket does take a long time plus you will have wires left but u just cut them of. hope i've helped ant Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
1. No need to remove the seat belt and trim a la Haynes. Once the seat is out, the control unit is between the front and rear RHS seat bolts and very readily accesible by peeling up the carpet. 2. After much trial and error I found that shorting across terminals 8 and 9 (6293 (Red) and 628 (yellow) in haynes Diagram 27) did the trick for me. This leaves it all working well apart from the auto unlock function on the rear 3 doors. 3. If you get into trying all possible combinations of 2 terminals, make a matrix on a piece of paper so you can remember which don't help. Some combinations will blow the fuse, so have some spares ready. 4. If you short across the connector terminals rather than the internal terminals of the control unit, resist the temptation to cut some plastic off the connector to make the job easier. I think this is what allowed some dodgines to some of the terminals, which resulted in the locking problem repeating (once I had the seat in again, of course.) A cable tie round the connector probably solved this. I wasn't confident enough in my soldering ability to do the short within the control unit. Ideal solution would be to find somebody who is, I guess. Once again, many thanks to Solara. Car now secure and useable, at a total cost of a long afternoon and some fuses.
i can help you need to cleen or replace the stepper motor on all peugeot petrol cars they have a stepper motor this controls the fuel when on iddle,be warned when stepper motor is removed do not push or pull the center piston as it will require setting up on a computer not necessary main agent,by the way i'm a peugeot mechanic been doing it for the last 5 yrs and do a lot of private work from home and have a computer and parts for doing the jobs regards ant
Not so long ago I purchased a Peugeot 306 1993. When I purchased the car I was informed that the central locking on the driver’s side did not work. Thinking that this was not a major issue I bought the car! A mistake! Anyway too late for that and to cut a long story short - I opened up the driver’s side interior part of the door to see if I could find some clue as to what was wrong with the central locking system. When looking, I found numerous joins in the wiring, inside the door just near the locking mechanism. I also discovered that one of the wires was broken, so I soldered it together and insulated it. After investigating further I found that there were various joins in the loom between the car body and the door. Furthermore the colour coding of the wires coming out the car body did not match the colour coding of the wires coming into the inside of the door which go directly to the locking mechanism. I phoned our local Peugeot dealership to see if they could replace everything or fix it, I was told that I would be looking at least £385.00 + which for me is quite a substantial amount of money. As I did not have that kind of spare money I took the door off and spliced in a new set of wires close to the body of the car. I found a rubber grommet to suit the old hole in the door and it is sealed properly. I fed the new wiring - through the old rubber boot adjoining the car body and into the door all the way to the central locking mechanism. I used separate wires for the speakers. There are no electric mirrors or windows to worry about either. With my electric meter I raced very carefully the correct wires from the two sides of the old loom sockets, and connected up to the central locking mechanism but to my disappointment it still does not work. My conclusion is that the old wiring configuration has been wrong all along. As you probably know - there are eight black wires with markings going into the drivers side locking mechanism. I really would appreciate any help. Joe
Cheers
I had the same problem. It is caused by dodgy wiring in the door loom! Much of the wiring runs through the door at the hinge area through a loom. With repeated opening and closing of the door these wires eventually break and can shortcircuit. I was quoted a price to get the door loom replaced and it was silly money! So I fixed it with a soldering iron and insulation tape.
Rob
My central-locking (1998 306 GLX) is stuffed, too - the fuse has been removed with the intention of key locking, but the boot won't lock! Dealer says there should be 'another key' but that doesn't sound right. Although ignition key fits boot it won't turn. Anyone else know anything about this? Also, since dealer fiddled and removed fuse, the interior light doesn't work properly (occasionally flashes on/off when I manually unlock the passenger door, or start the ignition) and the stereo insists on having the code put in every time. Is it possible that these things are related to the c/l fuse being removed? Cheers guys,
Jumping across terminals 8 and 9 appears to have been a fluke; the problem reappeared a few days later. have spent ages studying the Haynes wiring diagram; in my opinion this is a stage you cannot miss out. However, I've managed to figure out that the diagram is of the system in the unlocked state, which helps during the 'staring at the diagram for several days' stage. Today I have disconnected the wire (actually 2 wires, beige and pink) from terminal 5,wrapped the wire ends in gaffer tape and reassembled. The control unit will now never see a ' warning, door open' signal, so once you've locked, it stays locked. The upshot is; - Remote central locking and unlocking works - Key-in-the-lock central locking/unloocking doesn't,but who cares - Auto-unlock feature is disabled, so its possible to inadvertently leave a door open, but again, who cares - The passenger door lock button will lock, but not unlock,all doors from the inside. Worth knowing, just in case. Hope the above helps.
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