hobby caravans again
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The reason you are having difficulty in getting your windows is simply down to security. When caravans are registered through CRIS - should be a matter of routine - all windows, rooflights and (sometimes) the lighting lens are etched with the registration number - this number refers to Make, Model, Year and Chassis Reference. When vans are stolen, it becomes a very expensive activity to replace these items - bear in mind that a single double glazed window can set you back about 600 Euros. So, a van with 6 to 8 windows requires a considerable investment. Add to this the cost of rooflights and you are talking about the cost of a used van! Your insurers should pay up and they know the procedure for obtaining replacement windows through the HOBBY system. Delivery is usually within three weeks for vans produced in the last five years. Longer for older vans. Hope this helps. Peter
It dont mater how you look at this towing prob if you are wanting to tow a 2.5 width caravan you have to have the correct towing truck. Its bloody annoying I know I have decided to go for the twin axle Tabbert as it is the only Island bed twin axle that is legal to tow with my Toyota 3ltr Surf. I would love to have an Hobby or Fendt but they only have single axle thats legal for me to tow. John
It isn't the pulling power of any vehicle that decides whether you can tow your van - it is the UK LAW. Put simply, to tow a caravan in excess of 2.5 m in width you require a commercial vehicle with an unladen weight in excess of 3,500 Kg. This is applicable whether the van is single or double axle. Caravans upto 2.3 m in width can be towed with private vehicles having sufficient power and stability within the vehicle manufacturer's specification. Both vehicle and caravan insurances can be invalid if you work outside the law. HTH. Peter
There are many German suppliers of HOBBY vans - some with a very good command of the English language, which helps no end. You can get an ENGLISH Hobby catalogue from Ambergate Caravans (The official HOBBY UK importer for many years). Some of the German dealers will offer a 'House price' for the model you are after - usually 7.5-12.5% discount off list prices. It is well worth having a short holiday at the time of collecting - just to make sure that you don't have any problems. There are several sites open all year in the Rhine valley region - a days drive from Calais. Try Voepel Camping Centre for a quote - http://www.camping-voepel.de to see what is on offer or e-mail to [Log in to view email] I and several others have had excellent deals from this supplier whether going for a 2005 or 2006 model. They also do excellent after-sales service on components and accessories. Don't be apprehensive about buying from Germany - they like our trade and have been very helpful, particularly as they don't like the Euro! If you don't really want to go and get it yourself, try GERMAN Caravans - Google for them - based in this country. They will purchase your van for you, bring it back to the UK and deliver to your door. The price goes up by about a £1000 but the service is excellent and pricing is still much lower than UK priced vans - model for model. They also do good end of season deals. I have several friends who have used German Caravans and all speak very highly of the service. HTH. Peter
Commiserations Mac
im very worried about my hobby. i have noticed that there are a few bubbles on the side of my van..could this be damp....not noticed anything on the inside..i would be greatful if some one could give me any advice..thanks Gaynor. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
What year and model are you talking about? How long have you owned it? You could buy a damp meter from B&Q for little more than a tenner and test the inside of the van yourself. The aluminium panels are covered in bubbles as part of the strengthening process for the thin aluminium. Where are the large bubbles appearing? It would be quite unusual for delamination of the substrate from the outside, unless there is damage or corrosion present. If you are unhappy about checking this out yourself, contact your supplier or the HOBBY importer for the UK. Remember, provided your van has had the annual service check, HOBBY guarantee the van against water ingress for five years from initial delivery. HTH. Peter
1. It was possible to purchase HOBBY handbooks, in English, from Ambergate Caravans The official HOBBY UK importer/dealer. Five years ago they were £10 plus postage. You can try the TRUMA web site for information on the ducted heating and hot water system. 2. The mains element quite frequently goes open circuit. Remove the fridge and fit a new heater element - last one I fitted cost about £25. It is a time consuming job but quite easy to get the fridge out. Make sure all gas and electricity supplies, including the low voltage supply, is disconnected before starting work. Takes a couple of hours of careful work. 3. A generalised wiring diagram is in the handbook. 4. Modern tyres do not, in theory, require blocking up. If you do, check with your insurers that you're covered, particularly if you remove the wheels or intend to use 'winter wheels'. Blocks go under the axles as close to the wheels as possible. 5. Ambergate Caravans can supply you with the HOBBY approved mastic. Well worth the investment, as your van is 20 years old. HTH. Peter
once again thanks for reply jg
You can get the manual for most models off the Electrolux (Domotec now) site. Normally, there is an Installation/Removal set of instructions in the manual. Normally(!), there are fixing screws inside the fridge on both left and right hand sides (4 in total). These sometimes have plastic button over them to prevent the ingress of moisture. There will be a 12 volt, 230/240 v and a gas connection that must be isolated. You can gain access to the rear of the fridge by removing the panels from the exterior vents. Note how the chimney is fixed and also how the back of the fridge is sealed to the framework. Put a couple of 20x50x600 timber battens on the van floor so that you can rest the fridge on them as it is slid out. On some models there is a screw fixing on the side of the kitchen unit panel that goes into the kitchen worktop. If you remove this screw it is possible to lift the front of the worktop about 5mm, just enough to clear the top of the fridge as it is slid out. Replacement is the reverse. Take great care with the gas reconnection. Check for gas leakage before lighting up. If you send your e-mail address to the forum, I'll scan and send a 'generalised' HOBBY wiring diagram to you. HTMH. Peter
To clear a query; to get in touch with the sender of a message; is there no way of c/o to the message; or is it done as you suggest. [new to computing] regards jg
if it's any help;- awnings used to be "sized" by the length of the c/vans body; mostly in feet. now you need to measure the awning rail but note:- stick to the rail excatly; then include the drop to the ground; so that's twice; [1 for the front & 1 for the back]; now metric. but to be honest it's probably easier to phone the awning maker / dealer to see what they can offer. if you have an awning that your stuck with; you can get them altered; if you consider the relevant cost worth it. hope its of some help jg
Some awnings fall naturally straight down to the ground whilst others may slope outwards. Another factor to consider is whether the awning is designed for summer use only or suitable for all round use except in heavy snow. If you look at the bottom of the awning there will be a sealing strip to the ground (in days gone bye it was called the 'sod cloth'). Normally, if it goes inside the awning it is a summer use version. If it goes outside and is wide enough, you put rocks or other heavy objects to help cut out draughts and make the awning more secure - thus a winterised awning. Some awnings give you 'belt and braces' - both inside and outside flaps. The latter tend to be the more expensive versions. I'm biased in favour of fibreglass poles, because they flex in strong winds, in contrast to alloy or steel poles that tend to buckle and split. Get your catalogues from all the manufacturers and check the details are suitable for your van and your use. The deeper the awning (front to back) the greater the difficulty in finding suitable sites, particularly on The Continent where sites are generally smaller than in the UK. HTH Peter
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