carb spacer
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have found this item about the carb spacer very interesting please keep us all up to date. we have a talbot highwayman wiyh a 2 liter engine if it is at all possible could you give sizes / diementions of the spacer ie hole centers clearances (or a link to site with this info ) i can get hold of some hard nylon type material that will be heat resistant and would like to make one but need to keep my van mobile so with sizes could make then fit later also if it works out ,i would like to see how the performance on pulling away inproves my old f reg van pulls ok once she has been wound up but at pull away is slugging have done all the standard type stuff ,tappets plus rotor arm dis cap,filters leads,plugs fuel and oil change every 2000 miles with gtx she runs fine but always fills a bit slow at take off but then again its 20 yrs old and only 2 liters and egines have progressed from then days also on another note to all we are here because we all like to share info and help others so lets not get too heavey on certain members it becomes clear after awhile that some persons on here are trying to get more that the extra pound of people but by helping each other out we should be able to aviod that . i did think of rebushing my gear change boss as it as wear but after close inspection it could be a big job as some one has welded it altogether! gear change is fine but have replace wih semi synthetic oil 20 mm below to of dip stick.
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have a look at this it may help i am trying to find some material to make mine
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Most sites I found talk about plastics (nylon mostly) and even hardwood, but phenolic resin (Tufnol) seems a good choice and is readily available. The criterion is insulation, and it has to be stable of course. Tufnol fits the bill and is available on eBay. George and I are both using it, 25mm thick. I won't be fitting mine until next week, but George has already done the job, and posted some initial results on here. Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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Just to update: today I cleaned and serviced my carb (new needle valve, new accelerator pump diaphragm, new gaskets) and took the opportunity of fitting my 25mm Tufnol spacer. As part of that, I removed the heating pipes to the throttle plate and formed a bypass by removing the 'curly' pipe completely and connecting the long one to the tee piece at the manifold - retaining the heating to the manifold. I took her for an 8 mile or so test run and the difference was incredible! Local to me, I have a nice straight dual carriageway that rises steadily for about 2 miles; previously I could only manage about 45 and could never get into 5th going up it. On my test run today I quickly reached 60 and maintained that (in 5th) easily. Also, she used to hesitate a little after changing gear; now she responds like a good 'un and runs so much more smoothly. I have no idea, of course, whether it's because of the carb service or the spacer, but I don't care! I'm not changing it back! Regards to all D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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I thought TEs were slow but have just picked up a Honda Acty Romahome 545cc and drove it back from Swansea on Wednesday, OMG I have never driven a snail before !!! what mad fool decided to put a camper body on the back of them ? Wyn.
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and you should have pedalled quicker in the Acty... ;-)) D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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Thanks
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i tried to make a spacer out of wood and found that my studs are to short and i do not want to take them out in case i break them i also found that it is very hard to drill the holes as the 2 small bolt holes come very close to the large hole and that one of them split then when bolting up had split in 2 i must try to get the studs out for a start and then try again with some hard plastic martin
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If you make it out of wood it needs to be a hardwood, such as Beech, Mahogany, Teak - pine will be no good at all. You are unlikely to be able to drill the holes accurately enough unless you use a bench drill, and that also applies even if you use plastic or Tufnol; the stud holes are 9mm. Removal of the old studs is easy - just put 2 nuts on the top thread, lock them together and unscrew the stud. I made my replacement studs out of M8 screwed rod, 85mm long. Hope that helps D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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did the m8 new studs just screw in the same holes as befor why dont you make a few spacers 30/40/50mm and sell them to us.
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Yes, the thread in the manifold flange is M8 so the screwed rod goes straight in. One thing though, because the rod is screwed all along its length, it will go straight through the manifold flange; this is not a problem, you just have to stop screwing it in when the end emerges from the underside of the flange or else you won't have enough at the top to get the nut on. I'll give some thought to making & selling them! Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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To make and sell the spacers wouldn't really be financially viable as they would have to be priced far too high, and the demand is hardly great! Tufnol machines very well and is available on eBay and it's only then a matter of drawing round the manifold (or carb) flange, drilling and cutting to shape. Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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i am taking my camper to france in 3 weeks for a 4 week tour and see how she goes without the spacer, as you know i have put a k and n type filter behind the front grill and this gave me more power and i would like to find out my mpg as it is. if i had a spacer as well it might put my mpg very low if my mpg is not to bad i will then fit a spacer as i can put up with a few less mpg for some more power. regards martin 
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other air filter pic regards martin 
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what about having some sort of cold air intake pipe from behind the front grill to go right up to the base of the carb that will keep it cooler m
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good to hear that the spacer has worked well i am going to try myself with this from hard nylon type matreial,at present i get between 23/25 mpg top end is ok but takes forever to get there well 60mph thats all i will ever do. hav you part no:s etc for the caeb parts ? i followed a link some time ago but was unsure what i needed but from what i can see these carbs are basic so would like to overhaul. thanks for your help re exhaust have parts on order with postage £75. a bit better than the guy i drove a 130 mile round trip for to say ah should be 130 now your here to collect beware ebay
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Could I also ask where I could purchase a new needle valve, new accelerator pump diaphragm and new gaskets for the carb? My van is an 84 2lt petrol - do you know if all carbs on the 2lt models are the same? Thanks Mark
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I like the look of the K&N! How did you get the air intake tube; did it come with the filter? Just a thought, would it not be better the other side of the rad, away from the top hose? On the subject of mpg, it might be wishful thinking, but my thoughts are that the spacer/carb cooling makes for more efficient burning of the fuel so should result in better mpg rather than worse... but I'm probably deluding myself!! I'm not sure about a carb 'cooling hose' but I can't see that it could do any harm. Go for it! Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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As far as I know, the carbs are all the same.
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Glad you got your exhaust sorted, can you tell us where you got it from please? Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
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