new member, Derek Pitman
Messages 1 to 10 of 10.
In the meantime I telephoned Mike Chubb's number and spoke to a very helpful gentleman there who talked me through their procedures, ie take the gear box off and apply a little heat. This process however is beyond my capability, so he then told me to look elsewhere, at the bottom of the gear lever there is apparently an 8mm bolt which is prone to wear. Replace this bolt and tighten with oversize washers and that will take up much of the slack that is tranferred to the gear lever. I will attempt this this coming week end and would appreciate any help that you have to offer. Once again great site, keep waving.
The bush housing is tightened to something like 80 lbs ft (I think!). You need a good-fitting spanner (can't remmber the size) and a hammer. If you can't get a spanner short enough, it's worth sacrificing one by cutting it in half to get it positioned. A few taps with the hammer will start it unscrewing, but be careful as the bush comes loose as the shaft is spring-loaded and could jump up out of the selector rods as the bush comes out. The secret is to maintain downward pressure on the bush as you unscrew it. Hope that helps Regards D ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!!
The O-Ring housing unscrews anticlockwise, use a large adjustable or if really stuck a pipe wrench (will mangle the top of the housing slightly, althernatively get a mobile mechanic to pop round and loosen it for you (perhaps after you've taken off the other bits if you want to save a bit of cash, but its only an hour's work even with everything in place). There are a few places that can contribute so have feel of the linkages before diving in. If you have a lot of lateral (sideways) movment on the shaft that enters the top of the Gearbox then its pretty pointless doing anything else until this is sorted. Regards, Steve
I also had trouble removing that bush housing,it can be tight. That idea of Mr. Dutch is the key, sacrifice a good spanner, cut it shorter. I found an old imperial size spanner slightly too small then opened one side up on a bench grinder until it would just hammer on tightly. Cut it down to about 5 inches or so then use a lump hammer to tap it loose, it WILL come off. Try it cheers Foxyj.
Have just bought a 1990 model Autoquest having also had VW's so far I am well pleased, rust free (surprisingly) except ford sink waste tank which needs replacing otherwise very clean all round, just wish it had a VW engine old but good looking Eh? Sounds like me! Swifty ps mines has green trim
Many thanks for your input into the subject of my Talbot gear linkage. This Saturday I started again. I put the linkage back together [having briefly tried to undo the bush housing then chickened out, frightened of breaking the ally casting and mauling the two flanges totally. I then proceeded as explained to me and concentrated on the linkage directly underneath the gear lever. I put the van on two front ramps and then with plenty of room I was then able to get two spanners on this linkage and proceeded to tighten up. The free play felt minimal, though I was able to get get several part turns of the spanner. When finally completed I sat in the cab and tried the gears and that alone felt so much better with the slackness now gone. I have as yet only shunted it back and forth in my driveway, shortly I will road test it. So once again everyone thanks for all your words of encouragement. Keep Waving DC. Just another observation, and this is respectfully directed at Delfins who make their own precisioned replacement of this bush housing, why did they not when engineering this bush housing, redesign/replace the two flat flanges with a conventional ring spanner fitment or at least four flat flanges to enable easier undoing in the future. [short of time tonight, but I will Enquire directly to them shortly. DC
Read back through the main Talbot express thread and see for yourself. :-o
Think about it; the only thing in the bush that makes contact with the shaft is the 'O' ring. There is no metal-to-metal contact at all until the O ring wears sufficiently, so it doesn't matter how 'precise' the hole in the bush is (except that the finer the tolerance (gap) is, between the bush and the shaft, the quicker the wear in the shaft (and bush) will take place!) ___________________ Think outside the box - save yourself some money!!! Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Messages 1 to 10 of 10.
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Edited by suntrecker 28 October 2009, 8:36 AM
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