ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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My Cascade 2 was working fine on gas (it's not the GE model), but after towing it through extremely wet weather last weekend it seems to have gone on the blink. Although there is plenty of gas and the battery is well charged, the red light comes on at the end of the ignition period. I can hear the igniter clicking and hear the gas light up. I then hear a little pop at the end of the cycle - which I assume is the gas valve shutting off again. It seems as though it is lighting, but that the control unit is not detecting this. Has anyone else had a similiar problem with the unit ? Is it still possible to get hold of a workshop manual for the unit ?
Solution I hope is to remove the 'burner module' open up the attached black box and dry it out, removing any corrosion that has already occured with a brass brush. Leaving it more than a few days can be to late. It could also be build up of water in the burner itself but this should have drained away quite quickly and not cause lasting harm. After turning the gas off, removal is from outside behind the outer plastic flue cowl and an inner aluminumn plate. Behind these in the bottom righthand corner are two 'cross head' screws, undue these and the module slides out. Any resistance means the box lid inside has sprung open and will need to be squeesed shut from inside to get it started though the hole, the electrical connection can then be pulled free. Remember the two screws are also holding the gas joint so care should be taken when replacing, also ensure when refitted, the black foam seal and bracket at the back of burner is as high as possible and parallel to the top of the recess in which it fits.
Thank Gary.
I had exactly the same problem. Being of an inquisative nature i decided to take the heater to bits, when i got it open i found that the burner had completely rusted through. The heater has a flame detection sensor which shuts the gas off and puts the unit in to failure mode (red light on) when no flame is detected. Although the gas was igniting, due to the burner having large holes in it the flame wasn't burning at the position of the sensor, so no flame detected thus it shut it's self down after the initial ignition cycle. I made a new burner out of copper pipe connectors which works quite well, but theres a company called "Read caravans"situated in leeds and Blackburn which might be able to help you out. web address "http://www.read-caravans.com" Happy hunting Leigh
It was interesting to read about the burner , my trouble is the copper water tank has blown off the heater assembly caused by the central tie rod corroding. Any idea if this can be repaired .
Hardest part will be removing the broken part from the heat exchanger if it's snapped at that end, easy if you know how but make a mess of it and it gets a lot more complicated. You need to check the tank where the tie rod comes though to make sure it is flat around the hole otherwise this will need straightening before re-assembly. I can supply all you need, or do the job for you though the post and return with a warranty. Gary, http://www.arcsystems.biz
Tank has some corrosion in two small areas ( 8 years old). Will investigate more over the weekend. I am in Devon where are you based ?.
Done a few from the west country lately...must be something in the water this year? Gary
NEVER HAVING HAD A HOT WATER SYSTEM BEFORE I CAN ONLY GO ON WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD. SHOULD THE HOT WATER TANK AUTOMATICALLY FILL UP WHEN THE PUMP IS CONNECTED AND TURNED ON. OR DO I NEED TO TURN MY HOT WATER TAP ON IN ORDER TO PULL THE WATER THROUGH. I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY INFORMATION I CAN BE GIVEN, AS I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT SHOULD AUTOMATICALLY FILL WITHOUT THE TAP BEING TURNED ON BUT THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
This lot below will give you a good idea how the heater is meant to work. The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (660w 3amp to 970w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times. To operate the gas there is a wall switch with three lights, green amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light, indicating a fault. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off. The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable, but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box, sometimes behind a flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset. Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it, and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, either with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner putting the flame out, this will render things safe, but will probably require a new module because it’s control circuitry will be faulty,. A point to note here is that over time the wax degrades or the threads leak, allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust prematurely, eventually this will require replacement of the whole burner module. That in a nut shell as they say, is all there is to it.
yes after a short delay we do get water through the hot water tap. we were just not sure that this was the way to do it. we were told that as soon as you switch the pump on it starts filling automatically, and obviousley we thought it was'nt working properly. thanks for putting my mind to rest.
yes after a short delay we do get water through the hot water tap. we were just not sure that this was the way to do it. we were told that as soon as you switch the pump on it starts filling automatically, and obviousley we thought it was'nt working properly. thanks for putting my mind to rest.
The damage is due to frost freezing a little water that has drained down to this the lowest point and is the reason the drain bung should only be left loose in it's hole over winter so water can drain away.
Im interested for future reference when i next get a problem. Caravan Man (Andy)
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