ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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One thing crosses my mind about the flickering lights apart from a bad wire connection or the fuse holders not gripping the fuses at both ends and that is broken 'prong' in the socket on the control switch, this is where the pins of the connection lead plug fit into and make contact?. I get caught out with these sometimes when a prong snaps at the back and often it is pulled out with the plug and is lost. Yours will still be there but possibly making and breaking contact as you move about. A car battery will do the job fine, it just won't last as long as a good leisure battery.
I have a cascade with corrosion pin holes on the underside of the tank. and would like advice on repair Is it possible to weld a patch on without damage to the internal heat exchanger etc, and what is the material the tank is made from. Peter
You don't say if your tank is 'gas only' or the gas/electric which has an element bolted to the end?. There is a way of fixing gas only types but not GE's, however the good news is GE tanks are still available.
I suspected that the yank could not be repaired, The unit I have is the gas & electric with a horizontal cylinder which I presume is the GE, can you tell me where a spare is available from and how it is replaced any way thanks again
There are to sizes of element one being smaller than the other and because of this the tanks also vary slightly. The smaller holed one is not available only the larger one. Check your fuse rating on the cover plate over the element, if it's 5amps you have no problem...if 3amps then it is advisable to upgrade to the larger element rather than trying to make the smaller one water tight. It's not rocket science to change the tank but as always there is a bit of a knack to it. It is also a good time to check everything else is in perfect working order to give trouble free service. ~While I am of course happy to supply all the bits you need for DIY, I also offer a full overhaul service and then send it back with a warranty for complete peace of mind. The cost though varies widely with the amount of parts required so it is impossible to say how much I am afraid.
I have checked and the heater element is 5 amp. Unfortunately I need to use the van next week so I will have to effect a tempoary patch, temporary being the operative word so when you recive the new stock of tanks please let me know and we can sort out then wheter I diy it or have time to send it for repair and service Thanks for your help
I have a cascade 2 in a 1989 daystar award. I have water comming from the water vessel. On removing the unit it looks as though it is leaking from the rod and bott assembly at the rear of the heater. Whenyou try to undo the nut the bolt is turning. It looks like someone has tried to loosen this before. The previous owner had removed the unit for the van. What's the verdict on this please? is it repairable?
I've just bought a cascade 2 and after taking the cover plate of I noticed the burner module which is rusted seems to have a thin pipe rattling around inside I'm guessing this is not good news ? my question is can I get a replacement part and how much? also is it easy to replace the module thanks
Regards WKK
Other strange problem is that the bathroom hot tap now drips constantly, ever since we drew the water through to fill the heater! By the way, Duckie is a nickname given to me at school when a dodgy haircut resembled a duck's bum.... it has stuck ever since! Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
ciderman
The first time i've used the VAn this year the Hot Water Taps do not work and the Cold is very weak. The Pump is continually on and does not cut out as before do I have a problem with the Non return Valve - If so how can i cure problem
A serviced exchange module from me is £63 inclusive. Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
A most common problem at this time of year and is caused by frost damaging the non-return valve in the cold water inlet to the heater. If the inlet is off-white in colour try taking it to bits and repositioning the tiny 'O' ring, if black the easiest way is to replace the whole fitting. On the black one the non-return valve is about 3" back behind the drain bung outside, fiddling around though here with a thin screwdriver with the pump running might free it... at least temporally, you can always try it? The damage is due to frost freezing a little water that has drained down to this the lowest point and is the reason the drain bung should only be left loose in it's hole over winter so water can drain away.
PS, as your cold taps are not working to well it could also be the pump being 'stiff' after winter?. Take the filter off the bottom of the pump and spin the 'impeller' with a small screwdriver to see if it is free to spin.
Known as 'Heavy Ends' it is an oily substance which is yellow-brown in colour and will cause all sorts of trouble with appliances that are connected to the gas supply at low level...like the water heater?. Personally though I think you have a problem the same or similar to Jeff's?, which is a corroded or in your case a partly blocked burner
After reading your service instructions Ive managed to get by Carver 2 water heater working, thanks ! But Ive now a problem with my taps ! when I switch on the shower or basin hot taps the tap on the kitchen sink comes on as well ! This doesnot occur in reverse however, i.e. when kitchen hot tap is switched on the shower and basin taps remain off. Are there seals that might need replacing in the taps ? or do I have to replace the taps ?
The problem with the taps is as you say..seals, when any tap is switched on it starts the pump and water will come from any tap that is not sealed shut. As for seals being available would depend on make, age and what is used to do the sealing but again dependent on age I would replace the whole tap as it's likely to be worn in more ways than just the seals From experence I have found the plastic gets 'hard' with age which is difficult to tell but is why many taps will not perform as they should
I have a Carver Cascade Water Heater in my 1983 Bessaccarr Denaby SE, when i switch on the heater both the green and yellow light come one and I hear clicking for 10 seconds then the red light comes on. The manual says that its the thermal cut out and to refer to a dealer. Please Help Grant
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Edited by gary 26 April 2005, 11:38 PM
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