ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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What a find this forum is !! I have just bought a GE Henry heater which is a Cacade copy I believe. Having looked at it and read on here, as an ex-aircraft technician, I think I'd like to fit it myself into my 1992 Ace Herald which has never had hot h2o before !! I have a mate who is a plumber/corgi gas fitter to do the gas-up but I want to do the fix, electrics and plumbing. I'd like to find some instructions on fitting before cutting a hole in the side of me wagon !! 8-). Anyone able to help ? I like a clue with the 4 wire loom also: there is a green wire that has been cut with spade connectors on - I assume these fit onto the thermal trip on the top of the heater flange ??? with one end of the loom plugging into the module and the other end into the control switch.......... Thanks !! Dave
The four wire loom only fits one way round so that should not be a problem and the two wire loom is to provide 12 volts to the switch..the green wire being positive. "I assume these fit onto the thermal trip on the top of the heater flange ???"
Thanks for the prompt reply. I've sorted the thermal trip thing - basically a wire in the four wire loom is split and connected either side of what looks like a thermal trip switch mounted on the inside top edge of the main flange. If the green colour is consistent this is a 12v +ve supply that shuts the heater down in the event of a gas overheat rather than a heater element overheat ??!!?? As to the other problem - I have no instructions on how to physically fit the heater to the 'van .........can anyone help ?
The Henry's burner module is micro-processor controlled with a second micro processor to check the first one is functioning correctly at all times. This second 'chip' will either prevent the first lighting the burner initially or override it and shut the module down later if an internal fault occurs. The Henry is not equipped with an external mechanical 'fail safe' device to prevent overheating if the gas valve sticks open enough for the flame to stay lit even though the logic 'thinks' it is closed. This is something the Carver version had and in my opinion the Henry should!...and the few I have supplied were retro fitted with. The green wire feeds 12v+ to the switch and down to the module, there are no splits in the green wire before the module and no other green wires in the system....least ways that's how it should be?? There are no "thermal trips"!, although there is the normal water temperature sensor atop the gas valve which is a silver tube in a plastic housing. Where did you get the unit from?
press the bulb and suck up the fluid and read off the scale if it will not reach green or yellow after charging get a new battery. If the fluid you get out of the battery has fine black powdery paricles in it the battery is badly sulphating and will soon be defunct. Batterries should be recharged every three months, wether used or not. leaving them at low states of charge causes accelerated sulphating. If the casing is bulging out its gone!
It's definitley a trip of some sort - it's got a reset button !! I'm assuming it cuts the +ve supply as I said before, if the green colour is consistent for 12v +ve supply. It may well be a retrofit as there is heatshrink used on the loom where one of the wires is joined I bought the unit from Caravanningparts.net. As I say, I'm really after how to physically stick the thing in the 'van ! Do I use mastic tape under the flange and cowl ? etc etc
The unit if new should come with a fitting template and instructions which it never has but you could try a local dealer who may have a set for a Carver which is the same. The flange should indeed be bedded on mastic, however it is dangerous to do the same for the flue cover...this should only be screwed on.
Thanks for that. Mine is clearly a retro-modded one then ! There's definitely a thermal trip wired in series with the 12v supply on the 4-wire loom - Theres also the immersion trip as you describe - Can't be bad! I've got User instructions and some Installation instructions that say a lot but mean nothing if you know what I mean - Instructions like connect gas supply and connect mains supply and connect 12v supply are pretty obvious and don't really count as instructions in my book! LOL !! - I have a template too but no mention on how far above the floor the aperture needs to be in order for the heater to be level when it stands on its polystyrene jacket. I can workit out: sure - but some confidence building guidelines would have been good. Still, as they say, measure twice and cut once.
One should do and if it's the inside one it will have a line on it that is floor level or above any horizontal support in the wall that is at or slightly above floor level. Often if it's a used template it will have been cut off at the line. The 'foot' on the insulation should be 236mm below the top of the heat exchanger so if you need to go higher than this, all that is needed is a packer. A tip before you start is to buy some 'polymer' wood glue from any big DIY store, it has lots of trade names and comes in a normal tube to fit in a gun. It's slightly foaming sticks anything to wood better still if the wood is damp!, goes off in 5 minutes and solid in 30...brilliant stuff.
just a line to thank you for your help with my carver water heater, very much appreciated. received the burner module fitted it works a dream and the price, contact and delivery all very good. i recommend any body looking for help with thier water heaters to ask this guy cos he knows what hes on about. many thanks and cheers Andy (withernsea) Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
after searching loads of caravan breakers i found this one Autotech Leisure Services [Log in to view email] excellent and friendly service secondhand window came within a few days excellent packaging Not cheap it cost me £140 for a side window good luck
I have a 1998 swift challenger 530 SE caravan with a 9 litre carva cascade water heater. Up untill now it has been working brilliantly both on gas and electricity However--- It now does not ignite or fire to heat up on gas any ideas on whats gone wrong, what parts i need, where to get them and how much.!! cheers.
Thanks DB
njw It's pretty easy: Johnny Remove the cowl and cover plate as above. You can then check if the igniter is sparking and the gas is actually lighting. What often happens is that the gas does light, but the control box fails to detect this and the safety mechanism turns of the gas after 10 secs. Leaving the burner / control box unit in a warm place overnight (ie airing cupboard) will some times cure this. Otherwise you can get a recon unit from Gary for £63. Fishtank You have to replace the whole tank unit to modify it to mains version - this could be a bit pricey.
I have indeed been away at Cheddar for a week and very nice it was..even bought some 'Vintage' Cheddar cheese @ £16 per kg!!, very nice but hells bells £16?? I will have to put my prices up!! As for your very common problem Bob, as long as you remove the broken bit correctly it's easy to fix. Tape a junior hacksaw blade to a 6" screwdriver with about 1.5" sticking out the end having first tapped out the pins in the ends of the blade. Saw the broken bit into four and one quarter in half again...just until the blade scratches at the metal threads. Now use a small electrical screwdriver to chisel out the segments and then clean up the metal threads as good as you can, best if you can borrow a 16mm tap... don't forget to clean the shallow 'land' at the top of the hole which retains the rubber 'O' ring and seals the new part. I can supply the new part by mail order if you want but check the other fittings first including the one above the drain bung outside underneath the outer flue cover as this will probably need replacing as well. Just give them a shove sideways with the thumb and if weak they will snap straight off Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
Gary
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Edited by db 25 May 2005, 10:09 PM
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