ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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And is the old unit of value to you?
___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
Bill
The fuse is in the brown mains wire feeding the pcb, it's under a black sheath and attached to the top element with a metal clip held by a screw. You remove the whole wire and clip and throw it all away, the new reset kit comes with new wires and screws. The hole used to hold the old clip is reused to mount one end of the reset switch, there is an unused hole ready for the second screw directly below the first. The two new wires are finished ready to fit and it will be obvious which end fits where. Finally you will have cut a tie wrap to remove the old fuse, theres a new tie wrap included to replace it, ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
Phil
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Dont know if this helps but I had a similar problem. It wasnt actually the plug that was leaking but the rubber washer that goes on the plug. These are readilly available but if you have a problem sourcing one let me know as I have a few spares and can send you a couple. Regards Hawk
Sorry John I just realised I addressed my reply to "Dave" Having a senior moment I think! Regards Hawk
Ask for a '1/2ins BSP flanged stop end', there hanging in packets at B&Q, then you need an 'O' ring from Hawk or I prefer 17mm but the size is 18mm x 2.5mm in any hardware store. Got to also say it could just be the 'O' ring causing the leak but failing all that, send me a fiver and I'll send a bung out ready to fit ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
paul
The most common reason is the valve is not turned to the correct position to open the gas safety valve. Turn the control off the stop, now press down and hold while continuing to turn, you will now find a point where the control knob will fall a little further into a slot. This is the only place it will light while held down in this slot ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
Please can anyone help us out thanks
If however you are running that AVG (I don't know what a virus is) free antivirus software, then click 'ignore' when it tells you it's found a threat on my site!! Further if anyones actually paid for AVG and got a serial number? can you email them and tell um to sort their end out! Heres and overview to be going on with; The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times. To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off. The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset. Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled ‘fusible’ plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it’s control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module. Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a ‘toggle’ showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away. Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system. ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
is the heater both gas and electric like the fridge or is it just electric any help would be much appre thank you tony
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Edited by john 9 June 2008, 9:22 PM
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