ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
Messages 2081 to 2100 of 2289. < Previous 1 ... 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 ... 115 Next >
Since I have had the van the gas heater side of things has never worked.. I have replaced the burner module with a new one, it lit for about 30 seconds and went out. Managed to get another new one, this did not even try to light, no piezo at all. There is gas at the solenoid, all that shows when it is switched on is the green light, on the wall switch and the inline/remote one under the bed box. Has anybody any ideas, it seems it may be the control switch not controlling the burner ignition/gas solenoid. Is there an accepted test procedure for this unit. Regards Terry
The left hand fuse is negative or earth so I'm wondering first if the cascades causing it or a problem elsewhere in the van? 1, Does the fuse blow if you pull the 'Din' plug out the switch? 2, Does it blow if you disconnect the module ends Din plug? These two should prove a short in the lead if it only blows with lead in switch but not in module, it's common for the lead to get trapped and short out internally. The only real reason for the module to blow a fuse is if the gas valve sticks down, this though will always be the positive fuse. To check for an outside cause you'll need to connect the cascade switch directly to a battery so nothing else can interfere, if it works now you'll have to hunt the problem down elsewhere in the van. ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
You will need to test the element for a short, this can be done with a multi meter set to 'ohms' so it can read around 20 kilo ohms. First isolate van from mains altogether, now between an element pin and earth you need more than 20k ohms to be sure it won't be the problem, you should get no reading at all but any less and yes the elements u/s ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
First though check both ends of each fuse to ensure all four ends are held tight in their holders, this fault can effect any switch. To test for the other problem, green light on, pull out din plug and start to reconnect it, the idea is to hover the plug over the socket so it makes four of the five connection. If you get any life from the module while your doing this then the switch is at a fault. ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
The van is a 1993 Elddiss Mistral XL, so the original module was probably right in the middle of the time period suggested. If it is the switch is it possible to purchase a new or re-con. Regards Terry
The van is a 1993 Elddis Mistral XL which puts it in your age range for switch faults. Is it possible to purchase a new or re-con switch?. Regards Terry
The van is a 1993 Elddis, so the original module is in the age bracket you have mentioned. Is it possible to buy a new switch?. Regards Terry
There's an easy test to prove if the switch is causing the fault, have a look back over the last half dozen pages as I'm sure I told someone not so long ago how to test it. Other than that ring me and I'll explain for about the tenth time this week!! ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
Must apologise re the echo. Do you have any switches?. Regards Terry
___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page. Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Got heater out & gauzes on burner are fine. Magnet should be fine as it's a new valve assembly. When pilot flame is lit ,it is a nice stable blue flame. Thermocouple is close enough to flame although about 1" of the pipe is pretty flat near the valve end - could this have damaged it ? What do you advise - is it worth trying a new termocouple ? John
It would seem obvious to believe the magnets ok but I trust thermocouples! this leaves the connection between, clean it an try again ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
It was the ID mark i was looking at. Gave it a clean & built back up & it seems to be working OK at the moment. Thanks for the help, much appreciated. I hope this is the end of it. John
I seem to remember something like this before, try lighting it and pulling the 12v connection from the igniter module, bit vague but could be an earth problem effecting the thermocouple and disconnecting the module should prove it. Also the module should have a very short white earth wire going straight under the rear mounting bracket nut? if not it's an early one which needs this short earth adding and possibly for the reason above?? ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
No difference & it has the earth wire which i'd already cleaned up & it is connected to the circuit board end in case you wonder john
i have just purchased a elldis mistrall gtx caravan and went to try the water system which is a cascade 2 ge. had water coming out of taps ok and it soon got hot and could hear the pump running but also there was water oozing out of the front of the cowl on the outside near the drainage plug . what could it be please help .
Jow here, Iv never spoken to u before as i usually just follow one of your old threads to get the answers i need! Your like the saint of caravans and campers! I have a cascade 2 ge onboard the caravan i have bought to move over to spain in and i need to get it right before i leave, the lady who owned it before had lit it with no water in! (I think?)everything was melted! i have replaced everything except the module but now it seems there is no reasuring clunk to suggest the solenoid is opening and there is no sign of any gas coming through, when we took the panel that only competant gas fitters should remove (whilst laughing a bit) we noticed that the solenoid is a bit melted at the top and a couple of wires had come off. We soldered them back on but still no clunk or gas? is it possible to just replace the solenoid? or do we have to find a full module? Please Gary.... Do you have any?... I cant face having to boil a kettle to do the dishes or having a cold shower!! Cheers, Jow.
It sounds like you need a fusable plug , it is a part that fits in just above the burner and will melt and leak water onto the jets to put them out if the heater gets too hot, this is somtimes caused by the themostat failing. If you take the cover off outside and try to see where the water is coming from that will help, its not always the plug, it could be that your drain plug is loose or that the safty relese valve has been triggered or failed. You need to put some more water in and try to see where it comes out... I have one that someone lit with no water in and 6 different parts were melted, have a look and I will try and help, you only need a crosshead screwdriver to see! Dreadedsnail.
Your problem has always been the module, it's this that stayed lit empty or not of water, it should never get so hot and always shut down if the temperature sensor is doing it's job. Second, melted above the valve means the valves leaking gas, in short you need another module. Yes I have them, contact me direct for details ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
Messages 2081 to 2100 of 2289. < Previous 1 ... 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 ... 115 Next >
Important NoteAll messages are submitted by visitors to this web site, and represent their own personal opinion. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of Preloved. You use this information at your own risk. Preloved can not be held responsible for any damages or loss resulting from the use of this site. Please see our Terms and Conditions for more details. |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Not a member yet?Why not join the fun for free! Members can sell their stuff completely free of charge, have searches prioritised for their local area, and lots more. Join for free | Member Log In |
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
More discussion in