ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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the trick is with regard to yet another question and their starting to get blurred around the edges!! ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
On finding that Roy removed the heater from the van stripped it down and found the seal behind the immersion heater had broken..he soon had me cleaning up the surface with wire wool so a new seal could be fitted.. I then cleaned off the outside cowling and side of the motorhome so we could re seal the cowling in place..Roy fitted the heater back in place and recoupled all the pipework..we then retraced all the wiring and found that the fuseable switch marked mains fridge was actually the immersion heater, so the heater had been running on both electric and gas!! I would not have noticed though unless that seal had gone so luckily all has been repaired..and because I did the dirty work myself it only cost me £50.. after an hour there I now have a fully working system...I highly recommend anyone local to Stafford to use Stafford Caravan Services Limited Unit 9 Carver Business Park Astonfields Stafford ST16 3HR TEL 01785 257233 and thanks Gary for all your help
many thanks
Weathers been nice at Skeg thanks, we are there most weekends ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
i have the usual problem of no water coming through hot water taps. tried the suggestions ie draining and refilling with hot taps open but to no joy i then removed the white connector into heat exchanger the bottom one with blue hose there was just a hole no valve. i eventually found the small torpedo shaped valve loose in blue hose but cannot work out how to fit and wonder if there are more bits floating around. this valve isabout 10 mm long with an O ring near one end and a small compression spring the other end.any way i refitted the connector less valve unit and hey presto all taps work perfectly BUT when i disconnected pump connector from external inlet on caravan water flows out can any one help please do i need a new connector /valve unit many thanks
If you understand that then you've done it?! And Bill I'd never call Jocks tight, that surely goes without saying LOL ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
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___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
very many thanks for your help simon
We have Fleetwood with a cascade 2 but we have no manual. I have a problem with the hot water comming out whin the hot tap is turned on.Please if you whould e-mail me the manual it whould help alot thanks [Log in to view email] Dave
my cascade 2 seems to work fine on 240v but although my green light comes on the controller the gas don't seem to ignite when using gas. Fuses in control unit are ok. Gas is getting to the unit and I've moved the stat and still no go. Do you have any suggestions? and do we know any good fitters in the Bristol area. There appears to be a very good one in the Nottingham area(creep arn't I) but that's a bit too far away.
I'm assuming you mean hot water is mixing with the cold when you use the cold tap?, this will be caused by a faulty non-return valve in the cold water inlet connection to the heater, replacing it should solve the problem. ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
So to find out which, first what year is your van? ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
I think first you should read this overview of the heater, seems to me your confusing mains heating with the gas side. Could though have a bearing if the earth fault caused a fuse to blow in the gas sides control switch? The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times. To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, its to show low voltage and wont light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it flash as the switch is turned on or off. The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show its on, not that its working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have tripped Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset. Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the Burner Module. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong its a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled fusible plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because its control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module. Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a toggle showing that when turned a ¼ in any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then drain away. Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling the system. ___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
my van is a 1993 Alpine Sprite,been good up to now!
___________________ website: http://www.arcsystems.biz email: [Log in to view email] If you want to join the 'CARVER QUESTIONS' discussion and ask a new question, click on any 'reply to this message' within that discussion and your question will then appear on the last page.
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Edited by barney 28 July 2008, 5:57 PM
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