ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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Can you help? I have an elderly Buccaneer (1984, in lovely condition) with a Cascade Mk 1 fited. This worked perfectly through last season, but now refuses to stay alight. The single green light stays lit through the ignition cycle, the gas valve clunks quite happily and the ignitor ticks away (though irregular) and seems to light the gas. However, after 10 secconds the gas valve closes, the ignitor stops and the green light flashes. Under the van the burner assembly is quite corroded, but all covered parts including the wiring inside the rubber boot are in very good nick. My thoughts are a problem with the flame sensor. How can I check, and are these repairable? Which wires are they - there are two sets in fibreglas sleeving which dissapear into the burner housing. One set goes to an encapsulated transformer (I presume the igniton coil?), the other to a multi-way connector block. Is the burner assembly dismantle-able for cleaning? Hope you can help,
Dave
I have a carver mk2 the green light stays on all the time, I do get hot water when working on mains with the gas on. Dont seem to get hot water when the battery is running
Alan
Your problem could well be to do with where you stored it over winter?, if it was over long grass you can be certain a spider has climbed inside the burner and left his bedding behind when he left this spring. Problem is getting it to bits which involves removing the four bolts at the base of the heater and dropping the burner and it's bracket down. It may stick as originally it was sealed with silicone but it will pull down if you can remove the bolts!!. Generally when they are seized solid though the bracket you will find it best to remove the heater and work on the bench. It's a simple job oncethe burner is out to remove the one screw that holds the baffle and another screw to release the burner and check up inside. Before reassembly sure the longer fin which protects the over-temp switch is tight against the fire box wall. Make sure all the loose paint is removed as this can cause this problem if it falls on the burner. Then make sure those wires in the sleeve are lying flat along the bottom and not over the burner and the sleeve is pushed up tight to the over-temp switch to which they connect. Before taking it apart make sure the wire connections are good, particularly the black common earth wire and the yellow wire to the flame sensor. The connection block to the control switch pulls off so do this a couple of times and it will scratch a fresh connection. The sensor itself is just a piece of wire so if it is over the burner with it's tip approx 15mm above the centre of the burner it won't be at fault. If this lot fails to fix it then the fault will be with the control switch.
I shall try what you say, but my fear is the corrosion on the four burner/tank bolts. If they shear presumably they can be drilled and replaced with ordinary bolts? It would be difficult to remove the complete assembly as the internal seat framework is in the way. By the way - this site/thread is fantastic. In all my years 'surfing' I have never come accross anything so usefull and specific to a need. And to be able to get straight advice from such knowledgable people just for the love of a common interest - well - 'refreshing' doesn't come close. Sorry for babbling. I'll let you know how I get on. Dave
You are right about the Elan though, you will need to free the bed box top enough to lift it about an inch or a little more for the heater to come out having first removed the red plastic 'Y' fork connection to the hot outlet. The four bolts are ordinary with brass nuts 2x M5x20, 2x M5x25, they don't normally shear but the bolt is solid though the alloy casting and needs heat to free it. Once free you can run an 8mm drill though to clean the holes in the casting. Paint should be any Acrylic semi Matt or Matt Black spray but not gloss as this will 'flash over' when you light the burner...not nice As for spares for the Mk1, I have everything you might need Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
The slide control on the fire top is Off, Fan only and the back slide control sets the speed, Electric convection only with max 1kw output Electric slow fan with max 1kw output Electric full fan with max 1.84kw output On electric the slider at the back sets the temperature Gas is auto ignition so turning the control knob to the spark position turns on the spark and pushing the knob down opens the gas valve.
Also what year is the van...1992 by any chance?
I think I have sorted the problem but thanks for getting back to me. Is it right that the green light stays on all the time? Also do you know of where I can but new taps? Regards
The problem with the plastic fittings leaking is common and not difficult or expensive to replace them but you will have to remove the outer flue cover to find out where the hot water was coming from first. The problem is it could be just the plastic causing the trouble or perhaps the burner is not shutting down properly and this will need to be investigated first. Give me a ring tomorrow and I will tell you how Gary 0115 9213175
I know from experience that if the ignitor is not in a precise position over the burner and although there is a spark and gas coming though, the thing won't light instantly and in fact can fail to light...or worse light with a big bang!!. Apart from that many bits have been changed over the years and they are not away interchangeable...I can count 10 different models from 1985 to last year when they fiddled with it again. To get the module out you remove the outer plastic cover and the flat alloy plate behind that. This will expose the burner and gas valve, the two cross head screws under the gas valve in the bottom right hand corner is all that holds it in. Once unscrewed the module will slide out and the electric connection from the control switch can then be pulled off.
Messages 221 to 240 of 3086. « Previous 1 ... 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 ... 155 Next »
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