ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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The heater has two gallon of water in it and it takes about 45 minutes to get it to 65degC on gas, if it has electric heating then use both together for a faster time. Before late 1993 there was a red 'thumb' wheel behind a little flap which in turn is behind the outer cover, this is to adjust the temperature and set to minimum is only 30degC. It may be worth checking if yours has got one and it's been turned down. After this date the little flap is not there and the temp is set at 65c Once hot and 65c is very hot you should need to mix about 5 gallons of cold water to get a reasonable showering temperature..so seven gallons in all and this will give much more than a minute and a half. It's worth saying that some water pumps are very powerful and if you are getting a 'power' shower then turning the taps on less will make the water last longer. Being a 'sheila' (sorry) I know you like to be more leisurely but I reckon if the water is given enough time to warm up then you should get a reasonably good shower...my shelia does!
Send a cheque to Arc Systems at the address on my website and I send one out, you then return your old one in the same box. This way with the new one in your hand it will be clear what is required to change it before touching the old one. I try to send out first class same day or within the week as stocks dictate but MOST IMPORTANT please state if yours uses the round 'din' connection to the control switch or the 'flat' four pin connector...in your case it will be the 'din' Gary http://www.arcsystems.biz
The two are set as a pair and incorrect fitting is from a nuisance all the way to up to dangerous. It would be a good idea to check why the burner is rotten and one likely cause is a water leak from either the fusible plug above the burner or the base of the QDV in the top left corner of the heat exchanger outside. It is also quite possibly the way the van is parked over winter that the worst of the weather can be driven inside...but always check for leaks as they have a habit of getting worse when you are on holiday!
We tried running the unit on Gas and power and managed a temp of 60deg from the tap. Our problem then seems to be in our water pump which reacts badly to running slowly. We are presently looking into installing a pressurised water storage unit or some type of washer to restrict the flow. Thanks again for your help as I found it impossible to find anyone in Aus who knew anything about the Carver. Eve
On the first night we had the hot water on all working nice. About 2 hours later my wife was sitting in a steam room where the hose had burst on the hot water heater (top red hose) The water was incredibly hot. Next day repaired the hose switched on the hot water, nothing The green light is on, no clicking from the unit. Asked for some advice a site and was told there is a thermostat inside the outside cover. taking this apart there is no thermostat where it is meant to be. also there is no reset button on the outside. So spent the weekend boiling the kettle. Any ideas what I need to look for or check. Edit- Have taken the unit apart, completly out of the camper still cant find a reset button or a thermostat.
The next part is easy if you know and not so easy if you are fed a couple of Red Herrings??. First the reset switch is for the mains electric heating if yours has this? and it's on the inboard end of the water tank...not outside. The thermostat was done away with in circa late 1993 so it may or may not have one but if it has it is a red knob above the gas valve on the centre right edge of the casting outside...you remove the outer plastic cover and lift a little flap on the alloy inner plate to get at it?. If the flap is missing...yours is later and it ain't got one. Water staining is proof of a leak and the hot and cold fitting often crack and leak before breaking, the water if it hits the tank will roll down and into the modules control circuitry. If there is a fuse on the circuit board...change it, it is the same 1amp fuse as those in the control switch.
The hose did not break, it burst just down from the outlet, and yes it is probably due to its age. Right ok we have no mains electic heating so thats that out the way. Well I have the little flap, no red knob, the gas controller part (not burner) looks as though it may have been replaced in the past. Well I have tested the fuse in the circuit board of the burner and that is ok. So Where do I go from here? I have all the bits in the front room at the moment so should be able to answer any other questions (except the wifes, when are you moving this stuff)
Shame you have taken the heater out as you now need to carry out a little test to find if the control switch is causing the problem, this is simple if in the van but not so easy if out. The possible fault only happens to switches connected to modules made between late 91 and mid 93 and I explain how this test is done in previous posts but if you cannot find them ring me and I will explain. Beyond that modules made in later years have their 'own' faults which include this one and water causes faults to them all??, but we need to make sure the switch is not at fault first. Gary 0115 9213175 Adverts Currently On Preloved - Place an ad here for free
Turn off the gas first, now Un-plug the din plug from the switch and with the switch on and green lit, reintroduce the plug. If so I will put it back together at the weekend and try Many thanks
I was only suggesting had you known? there was no need to remove the heater in the first place.
I have carried out the test and the unit sparks and and the gas valve opens. I wonder if it just needed to dry out after the steam bath. So I shall put it all back together and test at the weekend. Is there any way to test the thermostat on these units. Many thanks for you help and advice Martin
It's one thing to help people with simple tests to find a fault and minimise the costs but as far as the thermostats are concerned... ...Yes the thermostats can be tested and I do...every single one!, however I am not sure if it is correct and it's most probably unwise to start telling people how to DIY there own gas appliance repairs!!.
Once again many thanks for your help. I will ensure any buisness I have comes your way Martin
My partner sheila sent you an e mail a couple of days ago regarding the carver cascade water heater in our landliner motor home, that fires up with a bang when it has warmed up. Just removed module and burner unit, found that this must have been replaced as seal sticker has date of 15-05-03. Do you still think that this is likely culprit. This module has sockets for 4 pin connector & round din connection which my lead is, do you need to know which connector is on the van if I have to order one off you, Regards Mick
One thing springs to mind and that is a crack in the ceramic insulator of the ignition electrode, if a crack is there it will be about level with the top of the burner and not easy to see but where the spark could track to earth at this point instead of the electrode tip. Trying it without gas will show a crack up if you cannot see it, I find the sound of the spark is less rhythmic as it has differing paths to earth.
Yeah, how many times do I hear that..well over a £1000 + fitting in your case and plus the fact the suggested replacement is twice the size for little if any extra output. I have a brand new 'fan pcb' but not an ignition pcb that I am sure works. I also have a complete 1998 P4 with the faulty ignition pcb but otherwise perfect. All I need is the time to find out what the faults can be.
Thanks for the response - I'll get your details from your website and try to arrange a trip up to Nottingham in the near future.
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Edited by martinh1 19 June 2005, 3:44 PM
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