ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE
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Thanks for the reply. I am back from holiday now. I sent the module back to the seller and received a replacement which worked perfectly! I did notice that with the first unit (after seeing the second) that it had a test label stuck over possibly an older one) it also had more gas 'pattination' that the replacement unit, (I just assumed this fas from factory testing at the time) All this has perhaps led me to believe it wasn't completely 'new' I have the initial unit I removed from the heater. It will need the electronics looking at and a replacement 'flame box', as the other is a bit rusty. How much would refurbishment cost, as it would be nice to have a spare? Very best wishes Richard
What they both did if they serviced a module was replace the label with a different one, often with a hand written number after 'REC' at the top of the label. So it would be interesting to know where you got it from, (Cornwall perhaps?) and if you email me that I'll reply with a price for one of mine. If you want to add your own question, just click on any 'reply to this message'
Tie rods and seal kits are available but getting the old bit out can be difficult, great care and the right tools are important or further damage will be done. Further, if the tanks had water left in and this has frozen? then this is another reason for a weakened tie rod to finally snap, but, also in this case, the area around the small hole in the tank will be distorted and require straightening or the tank will refuse to reseal.
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Ive got a 1997 Bailey Ranger 440/4 which I'm selling to in-laws. I need to repair the above space heater. The gas setting has never worked, but since we normally use electrics on site, its never been a problem. The electric fan works but it seems that the heat has stopped (it begin working again nvery briefly today, but has since cut out again). For info, the water heater works fine also (I'm not sure if this is relevant). Is this something that can be sorted easily at home if I'm prety handy?
The elements bolt heads inside the tank have corroded, this releases pressure on the rubber seal and it leaks, this is very common and fairly easy to fix. Should nothing else be wrong, (ie, proper frost damage), you can buy a new GE tank seal kit from me. This also applies to thinking of buying off ebay, what do you think you getting? one that could be weeks away from the same condition yours is in quite probably? Answer is alway to repair or have repaired what you have and be sure then it will last many years without problem.
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Hi I have been reading with interest regarding leaking water heaters, I have just removed my water heater altogether and one of the bolts that secure the heater element have corroded off completely leaving a hole were the bolt was. My question is can this be fixed? If not were can I buy a new one not to sure about buying second hand thanks Joe It?s a Cascade Rapid GE 
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Ive taken the element out of the unit and everything appears quite un-corroded and clean,one of the bolts was solid in the hole and one pushes through.There was a small rubber gasket/sealer around the element but that appears to be all.
24 February 2009, 4:50 PM peter Joined 24 Feb 2009 1 posts
Fitted new fan switch as original was loose and wobbly, but no improvement. Used to be able to wobble the switch to get the fan to run fast, which is why I thought this was the problem. Does anything else control the speed of the fan. Thanks in anticipation.
We own a Bessacar van that is fitted with a Carver water heater and a carver 3000S fanmaster/gas heater. First thing is that the water heater leaks when its first filled quite badly but once its been moped up it runs ok... Heats water and re-fills with no leaking after that. What is causeing it to leak in first place and how can we stop it happening again? Secondly the fanmaster has died on us. it started to make funny noises and got slower and slower. Now it wont run at all even though there is power to it. My partner has got it out in the hope of repairing or replaceing but we dont seem to be able to get parts for it or even a new unit. We dont want to have to pay out for a complete heating a nd water system as we dont have the money. can anyone help us with these two problems? We look forward to any help.. Thank you :-) Deborah x
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The Fanmaster has indeed died and it's directly related to it's age and that fan being noisy and slow running. The motor is worn out and has overloaded the control board which in turn as burnt out. The water heater is an odd one, what you say does not add up? Generally the leak gets worse as the water heats up and pressure inside increases. To test, remove the insulation and try and rock the tank side to side and/or up and down, it should be solid and not able to move on the heat exchanger
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However this has me a bit baffled, there is another control pcb inside the fan housing that controls voltage and therefore speed but if anything I'd expect that to kill the fan rather than let it run slowly. So to my mind the problem is the connection loom between, it simply plugs in both ends so make sure both are on fully in and tight. One other possibility is the connections on the pcb, maybe one of these is damaged, it's under the black plastic box on the fan housing so you'll need to remove to possibly 'Torx' screws to get at it
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Thanks for your reply. I will look at what you have suggested, and get back to you. Just assumed you did truma appliances, from seeing all your responses on this and the PCMag forums. Thanks again, Peter.
I have emailed you for the details. Deb x
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